纺织学报 ›› 2011, Vol. 32 ›› Issue (8): 112-116.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

荡领造型的影响因素分析

李哲1,林彬2   

  1. 1. 嘉兴学院设计学院
    2.
  • 收稿日期:2010-06-29 修回日期:2011-04-01 出版日期:2011-08-15 发布日期:2011-08-15
  • 通讯作者: 李哲 E-mail:zjjxlz@163.com

Analysis of influencing factors on cowl collar’s modeling

  • Received:2010-06-29 Revised:2011-04-01 Online:2011-08-15 Published:2011-08-15

摘要: 荡领是时尚服装中造型多变且运用广泛的一种领型,其造型与许多因素有着密切关系。试验采用5种性能不同的面料,分别测量出它们的厚度、悬垂性、重量、抗弯刚度等物理性能。在结构设计中以剪开量的不同为参考因素,用不同面料制作连身肩部无褶的荡领,并对其进行褶皱测量。根据面料性能的数据、剪开量的数据、褶皱测量的数据,分析面料的性能和结构参数对荡领造型的影响。

Abstract: Cowl collar is changeable and widely used in the fashion. Its modeling has close relations with many factors. Five kinds of fabrics with different properties were used in the experiment, their physical properties such as thickness, drape, weight and flexural rigidity were respectively measured. In structure design, with different slashing amount for reference, one-piece cowl collar without plait in shoulder were made of different fabrics, and then related drape data were measured. According to fabric performance, slashing amount and drape data, then the influence of fabric performance and structure parameters on cowl collar’s modeling were analyzed.

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