纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (05): 91-96.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180603906

• 染整与化学品 • 上一篇    下一篇

单面纬平针织物平幅轧蒸染色防卷边控制

马振萍1,2, 毛志平1,2,3, 钟毅1,2,3, 徐红1,2,3()   

  1. 1.东华大学 生态纺织教育部重点实验室, 上海 201620
    2.东华大学 化学化工与生物工程学院, 上海 201620
    3.东华大学 纺织科技创新中心, 上海 201620
  • 收稿日期:2018-06-11 修回日期:2019-01-10 出版日期:2019-05-15 发布日期:2019-05-21
  • 通讯作者: 徐红
  • 作者简介:马振萍(1993—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为针织物平幅染色及卷边控制技术。
  • 基金资助:
    国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309700)

De-curling control of single-weft knitted fabric in open width pad-steam dyeing

MA Zhenping1,2, MAO Zhiping1,2,3, ZHONG Yi1,2,3, XU Hong1,2,3()   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Science & Technology of Eco-Textiles, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
    2. College of Chemistry, Chemical Engineering and Biotechnology, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
    3. Innovation Center for Textile Science and Technology, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
  • Received:2018-06-11 Revised:2019-01-10 Online:2019-05-15 Published:2019-05-21
  • Contact: XU Hong

摘要:

针对单面纬平针织织物平幅轧蒸染色中容易卷边的问题,采用浆边的方法来控制卷边,并对防卷边涂层胶所用浆料及施加方式进行选择和优化。通过对比浆边织物平幅轧蒸染色各工况下的卷边率及其耐洗性,筛选出聚丙烯酸酯-聚氨酯浆料用于针织物平幅轧蒸染色中的防卷边整理,并通过工艺优化,获得了适合中、厚型单面纬平针织物的防卷边施胶方式:于单面纬平针织物的反面,沿织物纹路方向进行锯齿状刮涂,浆膜厚度达到0.2 mm,浆边宽度不低于2 cm。结果表明,这种防卷边施胶方式在平幅轧蒸染色的各工况下都可有效地控制织物的卷边,且不会影响后续的染色效果。

关键词: 平幅染色, 单面纬平针织物, 聚丙烯酸-聚氨酯, 卷边, 耐洗性

Abstract:

The edges of single-weft knitted fabric was treated with paste to prevent the edges from curling during the open width pad-steam dyeing process. The sizing agents and their coating applied ways were optimized by comparing the curling rates and washing durability during open-width wet processing. As a result, the polyacrylate-polyurethane was used as a sizing agent. The suitable processes for medium weight and thick knitted fabric are as follows: the serrated coating is applied along the grain direction on the reverse side of fabrics, and the thickness of the coating reaches 0.2 mm. The width of the coating is no less than 2 cm. The results show that the method can effectively control the curling of the knitted fabric in the open width pad-steam dyeing process and has no effect on the dyeing performance.

Key words: open width dyeing, single-weft knitted fabric, polyacrylate-polyurethane, curling, washing durability

中图分类号: 

  • TS181.8

表1

不同防卷边涂层胶在染色各工况下的卷边情况"

硬挺剂种类 卷边率C/%
浆边烘干 浸轧染液 汽蒸 皂煮 烘干
聚氨酯 0 9.05 0 16.03 12.06
F-404 0 2.03 0 11.44 15.88
EcofunYTJ 0 4.27 0 11.22 10.24
丙烯酸酯-聚氨酯 0 0.00 0 5.73 0.00

表2

不同浆边织物耐洗性对比实验"

硬挺剂种类 整理后质量/g 水洗后质量/g 质量损失率/%
聚氨酯 1.46 1.37 6.2
F-404 1.41 1.35 4.3
EcofunYTJ 1.46 1.41 3.4
丙烯酸酯-聚氨酯 1.46 1.46 0.0

图1

涂层胶施加形状"

图2

不同形状浆边的拉伸曲线 a—全涂;b—条形;c—非连续锯齿状;d—连续锯齿状;e—原布。"

图3

针织物组织结构及刮涂部位"

表3

涂层胶施加位置及厚度对针织物防卷边效果的影响"

浆膜厚度/mm 卷边率C/%
正面 反面
0.20 8.16 0.00
0.25 7.81 0.00
0.30 3.89 0.00
0.40 9.68 0.00
0.50 11.34 0.92

表4

浆边宽度对防卷边效果的影响"

浆边宽
度/cm
卷边率C/%
烘干后 前处理后 浸轧染液 汽蒸 皂煮后
1.0 1.89 16.66
1.5 0.00 0.87 0 0 0
2.0 0.00 0.00 0 0 0

图4

连续锯齿状浆边在不同染料质量浓度下对染色效果的影响"

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