关键词: 袖窿结构, 袖山结构, 围合状态, 衣袖夹角, 精准匹配

Abstract:

Objective Precise matching of sleeve cap and armhole is the core technical issue in designing sleeve cap structure. In order to accurately match the sleeve cap and armhole, a design method for the sleeve cap structure based on the armhole closure structure model is proposed to address the issue of a lack of relevant design theory for sleeve cap structure design.

Method By creating a model of the armhole structure in the enclosed state of clothing, a formula for calculating the armhole depth in the enclosed state was derived based on the flat state armhole data. Using the trigonometric function formula and the variable relationship between the sleeve angle and the armhole height, the calculation method of the sleeve cap height was determined. The key structural turning points in the design of sleeve cap structure were determined through three groups of nine experiments with different sleeve pinch angles and sleeve hole depth states. Experimental data were analyzed by regression using SPSS software.

Results From the analysis of the virtual simulation structure model of the armhole, it was found that the sleeve angle and the armhole height are closely related. The variable relationship between the sleeve angle and the height of the sleeve cap can be accurately calculated by using the trigonometric formula. The armhole depth in the enclosed state has more practical significance for setting the sleeve height, and the data is more accurate. Based on the planar armhole data, virtual simulation experiments can verify that this method of using the semi-elliptic perimeter formula to calculate the depth calculation formula of the encirclement armhole is feasible. Therefore, the planar armhole data can be used as the basic data for building the sleeve cap structure model. The sleeve cap height can be accurately calculated by taking the armhole depth data in the enclosed state and the preset sleeve angle. From the analysis of the correlation between the armhole and the sleeve cap planar structure model, the accurate setting of points E and F in the structure based on the arc of the armhole becomes the key to achieve the accurate matching of the sleeve cap and the armhole. The experimental design of the fitted sleeve cap structure model was completed based on the basic type of garment body structure model, the focus of the experiment was to complete the initial determination of the key structural turning points in the design of the sleeve cap structure. From the comparative analysis of the experimental data of the sleeve cap arc length and the armhole arc length, the intersection point obtained by taking GB3/5 as the horizontal line intersecting the front and back armhole arcs can be used as the key structural turning point.Through the experiment on designing the sleeve cap structure based on different morphological armhole structure models and the comparison of sleeve cap arc length and armhole arc length data for three groups of nine different sleeve angle and armhole depth states, the SPSS software was utilized to complete the t-test for paired samples of anterior sleeve cap arc length and anterior armhole arc length, and the t-test for paired samples of posterior sleeve cap arc length and posterior armhole arc length, it is proved that the intersection point obtained by taking GB3/5 on the horizontal line intersecting the front and back armhole arcs can be used as the key structural turning point to complete the design of the sleeve cap structure based on the armhole.

Conclusion The results of the study indicate that the sleeve angle, sleeve cap height and the overall structure of the sleeve cap are closely related. Verified through structural design practice, the design method of sleeve cap structure based on the enclosed structure model can improve the precise matching between the sleeve cap and armhole,which has theoretical guidance and practical application value in practical work.

Key words: armhole structure, sleeve cap structure, enclosed condition, sleeve angle, precise matching