纺织学报 ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (04): 129-134.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190503206

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

四针床全成形休闲西服的工艺设计与成形原理

刘博, 丛洪莲()   

  1. 江南大学 教育部针织技术工程研究中心, 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2019-05-15 修回日期:2020-01-12 出版日期:2020-04-15 发布日期:2020-04-27
  • 通讯作者: 丛洪莲
  • 作者简介:刘博(1987—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为针织产品工艺设计。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(61772238);泰山产业领军人才项目(20180224)

Process design and knitting principle of one-piece casual suits based on four-needle-bed flat knitting machine

LIU Bo, CONG Honglian()   

  1. Research Center For Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2019-05-15 Revised:2020-01-12 Online:2020-04-15 Published:2020-04-27
  • Contact: CONG Honglian

摘要:

为实现休闲西服的一次成形编织,以日本岛精公司四针床电脑横机为依托,对四针床全成形西服的成形规律进行研究。根据全成形西服与普通毛衫版型的区别,选取衣身、领型为研究对象,对其工艺设计方法和成形原理进行分析。结果表明:从裁剪式西服到全成形西服转换过程中,可采用矩形滑移变换的方法进行工艺转化;衣身采用局部编织可形成弧形下摆,采用收放针可形成分割线;衣领中翻领采用边编织边移针的连身立领编织方法与后领窝衔接,驳头超过门襟中心线的区域采用矩形滑移方法变换至内部;局部前、后片不同形状的区域在保持前、后针床线圈编织平衡的前提下,通过不等长编织和不等宽编织可实现精确尺寸调整。

关键词: 全成形休闲西服, 四针床电脑横机, 成形工艺, 矩形滑移变换

Abstract:

In order to achieve one-piece knitting of casual suits, the formation of one-piece suits was studied on the basis of the four-needle-bed computerized Shima Seiki flat knitting machine. According to the difference between one-piece suits and ordinary sweaters, the body and collar were selected as research objects, and their process design methods and forming principles were investigated. In the conversion process from tailored suits to one-piece suits, rectangular slip transformation is adopted to transform the process, the body is knitted with partial knitting to form a curved hem, and the retractable stitches are used to form the dividing line. The lapel is knitted with the rear collar strip knitting method that mobilizes the needles while knitting and connecting with the back collar, and the area where the splice exceeds the centerline of the placket is transformed into the interior by a rectangular sliding method. Under the premise of keeping the balance of the front and rear stitches, the precise size control of the front and rear of suit can be realized by means of unequal length and unequal width knitting.

Key words: one-piece casual suit, four-needle-bed computerized flat knitting machine, forming process, rectangular slip transformation

中图分类号: 

  • TS184.5

图1

六开身西服纸样分解图 注:l1为上衣基本线; l2为腰节线; l3为胸围线; l4为衣长线;v1为背中线; v3为止口线; v2为v1与v3中心线。"

图2

矩形滑移变换原理示意图"

图3

全成形西服矩形滑移后的工艺图"

图4

全成形西服下摆工艺图"

图5

全成形西服下摆起头编织图"

图6

西服分割线示图"

图7

收针形成全成形西服分割线编织图"

图8

全成形西服翻领工艺图"

图9

全成形西服领缺嘴编织图"

图10

全成形西服编织工艺图"

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