关键词: 数码, 提花织物, 结构设计, 全显色, 经浮长, 组织库

Abstract:

Objective The triple-weft combined full-color structure fabric is based on the hierarchical combination design mode, and the color rendering effect of the weave on the surface of the jacquard fabric is demonstrated by the structure color rendering mode of three sets of weft juxtaposition. However, in the design process of the combination structure, the technical problem that the warp float length cannot be controlled after the combination will result in unclear outline of the weave patterns, which affects the color rendering effect of the weave of the combination full-display structure. In order to solve the technical problem of the uncontrollable warp float length of the full-color weave in the triple-weft jacquard fabric structure on the basis of satisfying rich colors, this paper proposed the design principle and design method of the full-color weave in the triple-weft jacquard fabric structure with equal floating.
Method The triple-weft combined full-display structure was taken as an example, where the technical characteristics and structural characteristics of the three-weft combined full-display structure were analyzed in depth, and the technical factors affecting the warp floating length of the combined full-display structure were optimized. In the 1∶1∶1 design process of three-weft combination full-display structure, the optimization formula of cycle number of basic weave with equal length of warp float length was formed, and the methods for designing the starting point position, for optimizing of step-number of weaves and their combination were established, and a design method for triple-weft combination full-display structure was put forward, to facilitate the effective control of the longest warp float length in the combination structure. Finally, the combined basic structure with uniform distribution of weave points was selected to construct the combined full-display weave library for design practice to verify the feasibility of the combined full-display structure with equal float length.
Results This optimization design method can not only satisfy the effect of the colorful halo pattern of the combined jacquard fabric, but also effectively control the warp float length of the combined structure. The color transition of the fabric obtained from the sample followed the principle of color rendering weft space collocation mixed color rendering. The fabric surface warp structure was closely interwoven, the yarns are arranged neatly and uniformly, the warp float length was effectively controlled, and the ratio of each float length was made equal in a single cycle, the longest warp float length is R-1(R is number of weave repeat). At the same time, combined full-display structure and equal warp floating length structure had clear junction and did not interfere with each other in the application process. By comparing the full-display structure effect drawing of the combination of long warp and float length with the organization structure drawing, the surface effect of the fabric was rough, float length was messy, and slip was obvious. The results could be used to standardize the digital design technology of jacquard fabric, and provide reference for the optimal design of digital jacquard fabric.
Conclusion Based on the analysis of the technical characteristics of the triple-weft combination full-display structure, a design principle and method of controlling the longest warp float length in the triple-weft combination full-display structure is proposed in this paper, which is the technical scheme for achieving equal warp float length in the triple-weft combination full display structure. ① After the three groups of basic tissues were combined in the latitudinal direction of 1∶1∶1, the ratio of warp float length of the combined basic tissues was equal, the longest warp float length was R-1, and the number of tissue cycles met the requirement of R=3n+1 or R=3n-1, where n was a positive integer, which was the applicable condition for realizing the equal warp float length. ② The design practice verifies that the fabric with three weft equal warp float length combined full-display structure can satisfy the color rendering effect of full-display jacquard fabric and effectively control the warp float length of the combined fabric, so that the fabric is tightly interwoven and the float length is unified. The design principle and method proposed in this paper is aimed at the design optimization of triple-weft combination full-display structure, which can not only meet the technical requirements of mass production of jacquard fabric, but also provide ideas for the intelligent design of digital jacquard fabric.

Key words: digital, jacquard fabric, structural design, all-coloring, warp length, database of fabric weaves