纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (09): 59-65.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20201200507

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

单经双纬组合全显色提花织物的结构交织平衡特征

陆爽怿, 周赳()   

  1. 浙江理工大学 浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心, 浙江 杭州 310018
  • 收稿日期:2020-12-02 修回日期:2021-05-14 出版日期:2021-09-15 发布日期:2021-09-27
  • 通讯作者: 周赳
  • 作者简介:陆爽怿(1996—),男,硕士生。主要研究方向为数码纺织品设计。
  • 基金资助:
    中国纺织工业联合会应用基础研究项目(J201802);文化部重点实验室资助项目(2017016)

Balanced interlacement characteristics of compound full-color jacquard structure with single warp and double wefts

LU Shuangyi, ZHOU Jiu()   

  1. Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2020-12-02 Revised:2021-05-14 Published:2021-09-15 Online:2021-09-27
  • Contact: ZHOU Jiu

RichHTML

11

PDF (PC)

232

摘要：

为解决组合全显色提花织物因交织不平衡导致织造中断的问题,提出一种交织平衡优化设计方法。以单经双纬结构型为例,设计了横向、纵向与沿半径方向灰度渐变意匠图用于试样,比较并分析使用常规与优化结构试样的上机平稳性、表面效果及经向交织次数标准差。结果表明:使用优化结构的试样与常规结构的纵向渐变试样织造交织平衡;使用常规结构的横向与沿半径方向渐变试样在梭口处不同程度起拱,甚至导致织造停止,下机后织物凹凸起伏,即交织不平衡,需设置低于800根/(10 cm)的上机纬密以避免挤压遮盖的误差,再通过交织次数量化结构交织平衡特性;使用优化结构的试样经向交织次数离散程度相对更接近0,且相邻两纬表达并列非遮盖的斜纹效应,证明了优化设计方法的有效性。

关键词: 单经双纬, 全显色, 提花织物, 交织平衡, 交织次数, 结构设计

Abstract:

In order to avoid weaving interruption caused by unbalanced interlacement of compound full-color jacquard fabrics, a new design method for balanced interlacement was proposed and optimized. For the single-warp-double-weft structure, linear horizontal, linear vertical and radial gray gradient pattern grids were designed for weaving samples. Conventional structures and optimal structures were then compared and analyzed from three aspects: weaving stability, surface effect and standard deviation of warp interlacement frequency. It is evident that all samples made from the optimal structures and the linear vertical gradient samples using the conventional structures demonstrate characteristics of balanced interlacement. Linear horizontal and radial gradient samples woven from conventional structures perform arched status at cloth-fell with different degrees, leading to weaving interruption and bumpy surface in some cases, which represents unbalanced interlacement. To solve this problem, filling density was adjusted to be lower than 800 picks/(10 cm) to avoid the error of covering of adjacent wefts, and the characteristics of structural balanced interlacement were quantified by calculating interlacement frequency. Dispersion degrees of warp interlacement frequency of samples are approaching zero while applying optimal structures, and juxtaposed wefts in optimal structures express non-backed twill effect, proving the effectiveness of the optimal method for balanced structural design.

Key words: single-warp-double-weft, full-color, jacquard fabric, balanced interlacement, number of interlacement, structural design

中图分类号: 

  • TS105.1

图1

三原组织实例"

图2

三原组织第1、2纬与经纱交织结构仿真图"

图3

单经双纬组合全显色数码提花织物设计流程图"

图4

基础组织、配合组织的初始组织及各自全显色技术点"

图5

基础组织全显色组织库"

图6

配合组织全显色组织库"

图7

优选12级组合全显色组织"

图8

1号优选组合组织第1、2纬与经纱交织局部仿真图"

图9

常规14级组合全显色组织"

图10

单经双纬组合全显色数码提花试样实物图"

图11

拱形梭口"

图12

常规14级横向灰度渐变试样布面细节图"

图13

1号常规组合组织第1、2纬与经纱交织局部仿真图"

表1

常规与优化结构试样布面特征比较"

全显色
结构类型		 数码图
渐变类型		 织造
平稳性		 梭口
状态		 布面
平整性		 灰度渐
变效果
常规组合
全显色结构
(14级)		 横向 不平稳 中部呈拱形 不平整 较均匀
纵向 平稳 平直 平整 较均匀
沿半径方向 较平稳 两侧呈微拱形 较平整 较均匀
优化组合
全显色结构
(12级)		 横向 平稳 平直 平整 均匀
纵向 平稳 平直 平整 均匀
沿半径方向 平稳 平直 平整 均匀
[1] 高峻, 李聚梅. 剑杆织机单织轴织造双层织物的织造工艺探讨[J]. 天津工业大学学报, 2008(1):39-41.
GAO Jun, LI Jumei. Investigation of double layer fabric weaving process on rapier loom with single beam[J]. Journal of Tiangong University, 2008(1):39-41.
[2] 刘官正. 织机经纱张力控制策略研究[D]. 杭州:浙江大学, 2008: 16.
LIU Guanzheng. Tension control strategy of loom system[D]. Hangzhou: Zhejiang University, 2008: 16.
[3] ZENG Dehuai. Analysis of mechanism and main factors of honeycomb weave honeycomb effect[J]. Advanced Materials Research, 2013, 739:183-189.
doi: 10.4028/www.scientific.net/AMR.739
[4] 胡克勤, 金关秀. 织物设计参数对其可织性的影响[J]. 纺织科技进展, 2010(4):34-36.
HU Keqin, JIN Guanxiu. The effect of fabric design parameter on weavability[J]. Progress in Textile Science & Technology, 2010(4):34-36.
[5] 陈倩, 眭建华. 结构与工艺因素对机织物织缩率的影响[J]. 苏州大学学报(工科版), 2011, 31(1):73-76.
CHEN Qian, SUI Jianhua. Influence on structure and technological factors on shrinkage of woven fabric[J]. Journal of Soochow University (Engineering Science Edition), 2011, 31(1):73-76.
[6] 李辉, 孙涌, 刘霁琮. 彩色数码提花组织均衡方法研究[J]. 计算机应用与软件, 2018, 35(1):237-242.
LI Hui, SUN Yong, LIU Jicong. Research on tissue equilibrium method of color digital jacquard[J]. Computer Applications and Software, 2018, 35(1):237-242.
[7] 周赳, 吴文正. 基于数码技术的机织物组织设计原理和方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2007, 28(4):48-51.
ZHOU Jiu, NG Frankie. Principle and method of weave design for woven fabrics using digital technology[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2007, 28(4):48-51.
[8] 周赳, 蒋烨瑾. 基于数码技术的提花织物产品创新[J]. 纺织学报, 2009, 30(11):53-56.
ZHOU Jiu, JIANG Yejin. Innovative design of jacquard fabrics based on digital technology[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2009, 30(11):53-56.
[9] 周赳, 吴文正, 沈干. 提花织物结构设计的一一对应原则[J]. 纺织学报, 2006, 27(7):4-7.
ZHOU Jiu, NG Frankie, SHEN Gan. One to one corresponding principle on structure design of jacquard fabric[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2006, 27(7):4-7.
[10] 周赳, 陆爽怿. 数码提花织物分层组合设计原理及其实践[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(2):58-63.
ZHOU Jiu, LU Shuangyi. Design principal and practice of layered-combination mode for digital jacquard fabric[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(2):58-63.
[11] 张爱丹. 奇数层组合全显织物结构的构成原理及其呈色规律研究[D]. 杭州: 浙江理工大学, 2018: 20-21.
ZHANG Aidan. The construction principle and colour rendering law of the full-colour fabric structure with odd-layer weave combination[D]. Hangzhou: Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, 2018: 20-21.
[12] 许雅婷, 周赳. 基于全显色结构的提花纹理设计研究与实践[J]. 丝绸, 2014, 51(5):49-53.
XU Yating, ZHOU Jiu. Design study and practice of jacquard fabric texture based on full-coloring structure[J]. Journal of Silk, 2014, 51(5):49-53.
[13] 张爱丹, 周赳. 组合全显色提花织物的纹理设计原理与方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(5):36-40, 52.
ZHANG Aidan, ZHOU Jiu. Design principle and method of texture effect in jacquard fabric based on full-color compound structure[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(5):36-40, 52.
[14] 周赳, 吴文正. 数码提花织物的组合全显色结构设计[J]. 纺织学报, 2007, 28(6):59-62, 69.
ZHOU Jiu, NG Frankie. All-coloring compound construction of digital jacquard fabric[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2007, 28(6):59-62, 69.
[15] 吕治家, 张华明. 机织物纱线滑移规律及影响因素分析[J]. 棉纺织技术, 2011, 39(9):18-21.
LÜ Zhijia, ZHANG Huaming. Woven fabric yarn slippage rule and effect factor analysis[J]. Cotton Textile Technology, 2011, 39(9):18-21.
[16] 周赳, 吴文正. 数码机织物组织结构的组合设计原理和方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2007, 28(5):47-50.
ZHOU Jiu, NG Frankie. Principle and method of compound structure design of digital woven fabric[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2007, 28(5):47-50.
doi: 10.1177/004051755802800106
[17] ZHANG A, ZHOU J. Color rendering in single-layer jacquard fabrics using sateen shaded weave databases based on three transition directions[J]. Textile Research Journal, 2018, 88(11):1290-1298.
doi: 10.1177/0040517517698989
[1] 柯莹, 张海棠, 朱晓涵, 王宏付, 王敏. 电加热高空清洁作业服研制与性能评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(08): 149-155.
[2] 王伟荣, 丛洪莲. 基于下肢运动特征的纬编无缝瑜伽裤结构设计[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(06): 140-145.
[3] 苏梦茹, 邹婷, 陈颀超, 李超婧, 王富军, 王璐. 医用倒刺缝合线的研究进展[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(05): 178-184.
[4] 郑培晓, 蒋高明. 基于WebGL的纬编提花织物三维仿真[J]. 纺织学报, 2021, 42(05): 59-65.
[5] 方佳璐, 陈明艳, 黄紫荆. 漂浮自救泳衣设计开发[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(12): 118-123.
[6] 金鹏, 薛哲彬, 戈垚. 具有实时瓦斯监测功能的新型智能矿工服设计[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(11): 143-149.
[7] 彭稀, 周赳. 中国古代织锦重组织结构的特征及其演变规律[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(09): 67-75.
[8] 闵小豹, 潘志娟. 国内外医用防护服结构与功能的比较与分析[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(08): 172-178.
[9] 刘咏梅, 韩天琪, 张向辉, 吕芳澜. 无省旗袍的结构设计方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(06): 99-104.
[10] 张爱丹, 周赳. 聚集态网点结构提花织物的灰度仿真特性[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(03): 62-67.
[11] 周赳, 陆爽怿. 数码提花织物分层组合设计原理及其实践[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(02): 58-63.
[12] 梁佳璐, 丛洪莲, 张爱军. 纬编两面提花针织物的工艺设计模型[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(01): 69-74.
[13] 张爱丹, 周赳. 组合全显色提花织物的纹理设计原理与方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(05): 36-40.
[14] 张海棠, 王宏付, 柯莹. 应急救援类防护服装发展现状与趋势[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(01): 175-181.
[15] 刘杰 王府梅. 单向导湿机织物结构设计[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(03): 50-55.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号　 京公网安备11010502044800号
版权所有 © 2021 《纺织学报》编辑部
地址： 北京市朝阳区延静里中街3号主楼6层《纺织学报》杂志社　邮政编码：100025　
电话：010-65017711,65917740　传真：010-65016539　Email:fangzhixuebao@vip.126.com
本系统由北京玛格泰克科技发展有限公司设计开发