低损耗纬编成形女士背心的结构设计与建模

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210701606

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为降低纬编成形背心织造工序的原料损耗和生产能耗,以女士紧身短背心为开发对象,进行结构建模与工艺实践。首先将传统纬编成形背心纵向织造的宽肩带转化为横向织造的矩形肩带,其次对背心进行功能分区,设计不同性能的无缝组织。然后通过虚拟仿真,参数可视化建模调整分区结构与数值,实际织造后对比结构转化前后的损耗。结果表明:通过对纬编成形背心的结构转化并进行功能分区、可视化建模,进行工艺参数的调节,实现了低损耗与高效率兼顾的纬编成形女士紧身短背心的生产,为纬编成形服装结构转化与节能产品开发提供参考。

关键词: 低损耗工艺, 纬编成形服装, 结构设计, 虚拟仿真, 功能分区, 背心

Abstract:

In order to reduce the waste of raw materials and production energy consumption in producing weft-knit vests, the female tight-fitting short vest was taken as the object for research and development, involving structural modeling and processing experiment. The traditional weft knitting fully fashioned vest was produced longitudinally with shoulder width transformed into transverse rectangular shoulder width, whilst the vest was divided into regions according to function specifications which were fabricated with different seamless structures to achieve the desired properties. Through virtual simulation and parameter visualization, the values for the partition structures were able to be readjusted. Material waste comparison was carried out between the new and conventional methods. The results show that by transforming the structure of the weft knitting fully fashioned vest and performing functional partitioning, visual modeling and adjusting the process parameters, the production of weft knitting fully fashioned female vests with low material waste and high efficiency are achieved, which offers reference ideas for transformation and energy-saving product development of similar products.

Key words: low waste process, weft knitting fully fashioned garment, structural design, virtual simulation, functional partition, vests

中图分类号:

TS941.19

董智佳, 孙菲, 丛洪莲, 俞旭良. 低损耗纬编成形女士背心的结构设计与建模[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(07): 129-134.

DONG Zhijia, SUN Fei, CONG Honglian, YU Xuliang. Structural design and modeling of low-waste weft knitting fully fashioned female vests[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(07): 129-134.

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参考文献 10

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区域编号	横向意匠格数/个	纵向意匠格数/个	实际横向长度/cm	实际纵向长度/cm
A₁	216	233	9.6	5.2
A₂	216	204	9.6	4.6
A₃	228	161	10.2	3.6
A₄	97	429	4.3	9.6
A₅	164	679	7.3	15.2
B₁	160	604	7.1	13.5
C₁	583	175	26.0	3.9
C₂	215	453	9.6	10.1
C₃	1 344	175	60.0	3.9
D₁	295	573	13.2	12.8
E₁	208	265	9.3	5.9
E₂	59	489	2.6	10.9
E₃	56	401	2.5	9.0
E₄	162	679	7.2	15.2
F₁	180	549	8.0	12.3
F₂	210	679	9.4	15.2
F₃	315	290	14.0	6.5

结构要素	结构参数	下机尺寸	成品尺寸	穿着尺寸
下围织带	围度	65	60	73
	织带层数	2	2	2
	织带宽度	2.8	2.2	2.5
罩杯	围度	67	61	84
肩带	肩带宽度	4.7	3.5	4
肩带	肩带层数	2	2	2
侧比	侧比高度	12.3	10	11
夹弯	夹弯前弧纵	7.5	6.8	7.6
	夹弯前弧横	8.4	7.5	8.7
	夹弯后弧纵	8.6	7.4	7.8
	夹弯后弧横	11.5	10.3	11.4
背部结构	后中心高度	21.6	19.3	23
鸡心	前中心高度	17.4	15.2	17

类别	各区域像素点/dpi
类别	横向	纵向	裁耗区	裁剪线	缝合线
转化前	1 344	1 500	481 803	25 939	2 399
转化后	1 344	1 380	146 455	10 931	0
减少率/%	0	8	69.6	57.9	100

类别	原料质量/g	织造时间/min	裁剪时间/min	缝合时间/min	包边时间/min	裁耗区质量/g
转化前	63.98	3.13	0.6	0.2	3	17.4
转化后	58.86	2.89	0.3	0	2	5.76
减少率/%	8	7.7	50	100	33.5	69.6