基于双向多基色的全色域提花结构模型构建

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20231100301

摘要/Abstract

摘要： 针对数码提花结构经纬基色配置及选取受限导致结构显色色域不足的问题,在分层组合设计模式下构建了基于双向多基色的2经4纬的基本模型和2经6纬的衍生模型,以红、绿、黄、蓝、黑、白为纱线色,分别形成48和1 440种经纬配置方法及28和124类表里层关系,全息组织被用于调控色相、纯度及明度来扩充提花结构显色色域空间,2种模型的代表性显色组织与显色组合组织总数的最大值分别为3 605 139与84 392 722 413,最后通过织物模拟来验证2种模型的结构显色适用性。结果表明:经向与经纬双向配置黑、白丝线以及纬向配置红、黄、绿、蓝丝线,利用全息组织可令2种结构模型的结构显色理论色彩数目分别达10⁶级和10¹¹级,为全色域效果的数码提花织物开发及智能化设计研究提供参考。

关键词: 织物设计, 分层组合设计模式, 数码提花, 双向多基色, 织物结构, 结构显色, 配色设计

Abstract:

Objective Referring to the issue of gamut color spaces for structural coloring caused by the restricted primary color configuration and selection of warp and weft for digital jacquard structure, jacquard structure with bidirectional multi-primary color was proposed under layered-combination design mode, the way how three factors namely weave repeat $R$ , the quantity of face weft group(s) $N$ and the transition speed $M$ determine the quantity of warp and weft configuration, face and back layer relationship, coloring compound weave-databases and representative weaves and compound weaves for coloring of jacquard structure basic and derived model were revealed, providing theoretical reference to the construction of jacquard structure model with a finite group of primary color threads and the expansion of its structural gamut color spaces.

Method First, the construction of jacquard structure model with full gamut color spaces based on bidirectional multi-primary color referred to the structural characteristic of double-layer structure, with only face warp and face weft(s) used for coloring. Besides, the basic model with double warps and quadruple wefts and the derived model with double warps and sextuple wefts were established, 4 chromatic colors as well as 2 achromatic colors, namely red, yellow, green, blue, black, and white, were applied to the configuration of thread color, in this case, 4 groups of chromatic threads configurated weft-wised only, 2 groups of achromatic threads were arranged warp-wisely and bi-directionally, with warp threads configurated with 1∶1 ratio, while weft threads allocated under 1∶1∶1∶1 and 1∶1∶1∶1∶1∶1 ratio respectively. What's more, the quantity of coloring compound weave-databases and the quantity of representative weaves and compound weaves for coloring of jacquard structure basic and derived model were calculated and analyzed. Last but not least, the applicability of the two structure models were verified through the comparison of fabric simulation.

Results Jacquard structure model with full gamut color spaces based on bidirectional multi-primary color were illustrated, including jacquard structure basic model with double warps and quadruple wefts and jacquard structure derived model with double warps and sextuple wefts. According to the arrangement sequence of primary color threads, the warp and weft configurations were 48 and 1 440 correspondingly, based on the assignment of the quantity of face weft group(s) $N,$ the face layer and back layer relationships were 28 and 124 respectively without stitching. To stabilize structural coloring characteristics, it is essential to avoid the juxtaposed non-backed effect generated by adjacent face wefts inserted into the same shed when full gamut shaded weaves are combined in succession to form compound weaves for coloring with the quantity of face weft group(s) $N$ equaling or exceeding 2, then the quantity of valid coloring compound weave-databases and the quantity of representative weaves and compound weaves for coloring were obtained according to weave repeat $R$ and the quantity of face weft group(s) $N$ , further, the maximum quantity for total weaves and compound weaves for coloring were 3 605 139 and 84 392 722 413 respectively with 40-threads satin weave and 153 levels of gamut weaves applied for the two structure models, and the characteristics of 6 structural coloring points on fabric simulation revealed that the jacquard structure model proposed is able to adjust chromatic, purity and brightness to enlarge the gamut color spaces of structural coloring.

Conclusion The results demonstrated that achromatic threads configurated codirectionally and bidirectionally conduct to the brightness adjustment of structural coloring in jacquard structure model with bidirectional multi-primary color, besides, with chromatic threads configurated codirectionally and interlaced with achromatic threads according to gamut weaves, the quantity of structural color reaches to the level of $106$ and $1011$ theoretically for two structure models respectively. Thus, this study contributes to the development and intelligent design research of digital jacquard fabric with full gamut color spaces.

Key words: fabric design, layered-combination design mode, digital jacquard, bidirectional multi-primary color, fabric structure, structural coloring, color scheme

中图分类号:

TS105.1

陆爽怿, 周赳. 基于双向多基色的全色域提花结构模型构建[J]. 纺织学报, 2024, 45(11): 88-98.

LU Shuangyi, ZHOU Jiu. Construction of jacquard structure model with full gamut color spaces based on bidirectional multi-primary color[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2024, 45(11): 88-98.

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链接本文: http://www.fzxb.org.cn/CN/10.13475/j.fzxb.20231100301

http://www.fzxb.org.cn/CN/Y2024/V45/I11/88

图/表 10

图1

图2

图3

图4

图5

表1

基本模型与衍生模型的显色组合组织状态与数目"

结构模型	表纬组数N	总显色组合组织数目	共口效果显色组合组织数目	非共口效果显色组合组织数目
2经4纬的基本模型 2经6纬的衍生模型	2	R	2	$R - 2$
2经4纬的基本模型 2经6纬的衍生模型	3	$R 2$	$3 (R - 1)$	$R 2 - 3 (R - 1)$
2经6纬的衍生模型	4	$R 3$	$R 3 - (R - 2) × [R 2 - 3 (R - 1)]$	$(R - 2) × [R 2 - 3 (R - 1)]$
2经6纬的衍生模型	5	$R 4$	$R 4 - (R - 2) × {(R - 2) × [R 2 - 3 (R - 1)]}$	$(R - 2) × {(R - 2) × [R 2 - 3 (R - 1)]}$

表1

表2

基于不同组织循环的基本组织的代表性显色组织与显色组合组织数目"

组织循环 R	全息组织级别
组织循环 R	$M = R$	$M = R / 2$	$M = R / 4$	$M = 1$	单纬渐变	双纬渐变	三纬渐变	四纬渐变	五纬渐变	2经4纬结构	2经6纬结构
5	4	—	—	16	16	256	4 096	65 536	1 048 576	4 368	1 118 480
8	7	13	25	49	49	2 401	117 649	5 764 801	282 475 249	120 099	288 360 149
10	9	17	33	81	81	6 561	531 441	43 046 721	3 486 784 401	538 083	3 530 369 205
12	11	21	41	121	121	14 641	1 771 561	214 358 881	25 937 424 601	1 786 323	26 153 569 805
16	15	29	57	225	57	3 249	185 193	10 556 001	601 692 057	188 499	612 436 557
20	19	37	73	361	73	5 329	389 017	28 398 241	2 073 071 593	394 419	2 101 864 253
24	23	45	89	529	89	7 921	704 969	62 742 241	5 584 059 449	712 979	5 647 514 669
32	31	61	121	961	121	14 641	1 771 561	214 358 881	25 937 424 601	1 786 323	26 153 569 805
40	39	77	153	1 521	153	23 409	3 581 577	547 981 281	83 841 135 993	3 605 139	84 392 722 413
48	47	93	185	2 209	93	8 649	804 357	74 805 201	6 956 883 693	813 099	7 032 501 993
60	59	117	233	3 481	117	13 689	1 601 613	187 388 721	21 924 480 357	1 615 419	22 113 484 497
64	63	125	249	3 969	125	15 625	1 953 125	244 140 625	30 517 578 125	1 968 875	30 763 687 625

表2

表3

图6

图7

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类别	线密度/ dtex	纱线类名	丝线色彩(配比)	总密度/ (根·(10 cm)^-1)	经纬浮沉规律
经纱	55.55	EAT标准长丝	黑色∶白色(1∶1) 红色∶黄色∶绿色∶蓝色(1∶1∶1∶1)	1 180	16枚、8枚、4枚及其加强组织、经浮长、纬浮长
纬纱	83.33	EAT标准长丝	红色∶黄色∶白色∶ 绿色∶蓝色∶黑色 (1∶1∶1∶1∶1∶1)	1 180	24枚、12枚、4枚及其加强组织、经浮长、纬浮长