纺织学报 ›› 2016, Vol. 37 ›› Issue (08): 65-71.

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

中国古代丝绸饰金工艺及品种的历史传承

  

  • 收稿日期:2015-06-12 修回日期:2016-02-28 出版日期:2016-08-15 发布日期:2016-08-05

Technology and category of China ancient silk decorated in gold and historical inheritance

  • Received:2015-06-12 Revised:2016-02-28 Online:2016-08-15 Published:2016-08-05

摘要:

为客观、系统地分析中国古代饰金丝绸的品种及其工艺的历史发展和演变过程,通过对丝绸饰金工艺方法的归纳和梳理,探讨了3 种工艺的复杂程度,经分析认为金粉法和金箔法应早于金线法;以饰金工艺为基础对饰金丝绸品种进行了划分,并结合文献和出土实物的记载,阐释了几种独具代表性的饰金丝绸的历史及其演化过程。进而分析了饰金丝绸的品种与3 种饰金工艺之间的相关性,认为3 种工艺的难易程度取决于饰金材料制取的难易程度,即印金丝绸的出现时间早于织金丝绸,而织金丝绸又早于金线绣丝绸。精湛的饰金丝绸工艺及丰富的品种充分体现了中国古代饰金丝绸的繁盛及其影响力。

关键词: 中国古代丝绸, 饰金工艺, 饰金丝调, 历史演变

Abstract:

In order to analyze the historical development and evolution process of the technology and category of China ancient silk decorated in gold, the means of induction and study on the technology of ornamental gold were employed. By analyzing the complexity of the three technologies, it was thought that the gold powder and gold foil methods were used before appearance of the gold thread method. Besides, the silks decorated in gold were also classified based on the technologies and the history evolution of several kinds of representative varieties were expounded in accordance with historical documents and archeological findings. The difficulty level of three techniques depends on the complexity of the preparation of ornament gold materials. It showed that printing gold silk appeared before the appearance of weaving gold silk and weaving gold silk appeared previous to that of embroidering gold silk. The exquisite technologies and abundant categories reflect the prosperity and influence of the ancient silk decorated in gold of China. It is really worth using for reference by modern silk researchers.

Key words: China ancient silk, ornamental gold technology, sild decorated in gold, historical evolution

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