Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (02): 69-75.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180502307

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Knitting process and properties analysis of underarm stitching of fully-fashioned garment

LU Lisha, JIANG Gaoming(), LUO Xuan   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-05-06 Revised:2018-08-19 Online:2019-02-15 Published:2019-02-01
  • Contact: JIANG Gaoming E-mail:jgm@jiangnan.edu.cn

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Abstract:

In order to further understand the integral forming principle of fully-fashioned garment and develop products meeting the needs of different people, the knitting process of sleeve transfer before underarm stitching was studied from three aspects: single transfer, multiple transfer and non-transfer, and the ways of underarm stitching were studied in four ways: no multi-knitting, multi-knitting on sleeve, multi-knitting on sleeve & body and tri-knitting on sleeve & body. Taking the V-neck shoulder sleeve as an example, the fully-fashioned garments formed with four types of underarm stitching were knitted with 2 plied wool yarns, respectively, and their properties of underarm areas were tested. The results show that no multi-knitting takes the least time, and is more suitable for efficiency-oriented production. Multi-knitting on sleeve & body shows the best visual effect, and is more suitable for appearance-oriented production; tri-knitting on sleeve & body possesses the best tensile property, and is more suitable for strength-oriented production; and the breathability of no multi-knitting ranks first, and is more suitable for comfort-oriented production.

Key words: fully-fashioned garment, underarm stitching, knitting process, stitching type, transfer

CLC Number: 

  • TS106.6

Fig.1

Sketch of sweaters' underarm stitching. (a) No multi-knitting; (b) Multi-knitting"

Fig.2

Knitting process of single transfer"

Fig.3

Knitting process of multiple transfer"

Fig.4

Knitting process of no multi-knitting"

Fig.5

Physical picture of no multi-knitting. (a) Positive effect;(b) Underarm effect"

Fig.6

Knitting process of multi-knitting on sleeve"

Fig.7

Physical picture of multi-knitting on sleeve. (a) Positive effect;(b) Underarm effect"

Fig.8

Knitting process of multi-knitting."

Fig.9

Physical picture of multi-knitting. (a) Positive effect; (b) Underarm effect"

Fig.10

Knitting process of tri-knitting"

Fig.11

Physical picture of tri-knitting. (a) Positive effect;(b) Underarm effect"

Tab.1

Knitting lines and time of four underarm stitching"

织物名称 编织行数 编织时间/min
无拼角连接 3 216 68.40
单拼角连接 3 334 69.41
双拼角连接 3 306 69.28
三角形连接 3 524 70.20

Tab.2

Tensile load of four underarm stitching"

织物名称 伸长/mm 负荷/N
无拼角连接 2 4.9
单拼角连接 2 5.7
双拼角连接 2 7.7
三角形连接 2 10.6
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