Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (04): 129-134.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190503206

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Process design and knitting principle of one-piece casual suits based on four-needle-bed flat knitting machine

LIU Bo, CONG Honglian()   

  1. Research Center For Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2019-05-15 Revised:2020-01-12 Online:2020-04-15 Published:2020-04-27
  • Contact: CONG Honglian E-mail:cong-wkrc@163.com

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Abstract:

In order to achieve one-piece knitting of casual suits, the formation of one-piece suits was studied on the basis of the four-needle-bed computerized Shima Seiki flat knitting machine. According to the difference between one-piece suits and ordinary sweaters, the body and collar were selected as research objects, and their process design methods and forming principles were investigated. In the conversion process from tailored suits to one-piece suits, rectangular slip transformation is adopted to transform the process, the body is knitted with partial knitting to form a curved hem, and the retractable stitches are used to form the dividing line. The lapel is knitted with the rear collar strip knitting method that mobilizes the needles while knitting and connecting with the back collar, and the area where the splice exceeds the centerline of the placket is transformed into the interior by a rectangular sliding method. Under the premise of keeping the balance of the front and rear stitches, the precise size control of the front and rear of suit can be realized by means of unequal length and unequal width knitting.

Key words: one-piece casual suit, four-needle-bed computerized flat knitting machine, forming process, rectangular slip transformation

CLC Number: 

  • TS184.5

Fig.1

Decomposition diagram of six-body suit pattern"

Fig.2

Diagram of rectangular slid transform principle. (a) Pre-slip; (b) Slide left with dashed line as boundary;(c) Slide to left with outer contour of left image as boundary; (d) Graph on right slides up"

Fig.3

Process diagram of one-piece suit after rectangular sliding"

Fig.4

Process drawing of hem of one-piece suit"

Fig.5

Start knitting diagram of hem of one-piece suit. (a) Elastic yarn knitting; (b) Waste yarn knitting and transferring; (c) Separation yarn knitting;(d) C-shaped knitting according to order from ① to ⑥"

Fig.6

Diagram of suit dividing line. (a)Front; (b) Back"

Fig.7

Knitting diagram of narrowing to form one-piece suit secant line. (a) Narrowing two knit in right side of front panel; (b) Narrowing two knit in right side of back panel; (c) Narrowing two knit in left side of front panel; (d) Narrowing two knit in left side of back panel;(e) Finished narrowing"

Fig.8

Process drawing of lapel of one-piece suit. (a) Lapel before sliding; (b) Lapel after sliding"

Fig.9

Knitting diagram of neck gap of one-piece suit. (a) Turn loop to back needle bed; (b) Separation yarn knitting while narrowing; (c) Keep narrowing and separation yarn knitting one by one; (d) Finished narrowings; (e) Restart knitting above neck gap"

Fig.10

Process diagram of one-piece suit"

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