Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (10): 73-78.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181104106

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Transverse knitting method and forming process of fully formed sweater

WANG Pan, WU Zhiming()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-11-15 Revised:2019-06-26 Online:2019-10-15 Published:2019-10-23
  • Contact: WU Zhiming E-mail:wxwuzm@163. com

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Abstract:

In order to promote the design and development of fully formed sweater, the forming rule of fully formed sweater was studied by means of case analysis and experimentation on the basis of the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine and design system of SDS-ONE APPEX 3. According to the characteristics and advantages of full-formed transverse knitting, three most suitable styles were selected as research examples, and their process design methods and forming principles were analyzed. The feasibility of the theory was verified by the actual weaving on the machine. The results show that when the transverse knitting is adopted, both sides seam types of separates should be kept the same. When knitting upper garments, the lateral dimensions of sleeves and body can be greatly increased to achieve relaxed and random effects, and bat sleeves can be formed by sleeves and body knitting together and shoulder folding. When knitting lower garment, multi-weaving can be carried out at the hem to quickly increase the difference between waist and hem to form the wave effect.

Key words: knitting technology, fully formed sweater, transverse knitting method, forming process, four-bed computerized flat knitting machine

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.64

Fig.1

Shaping method of transverse knitting"

Fig.2

Main styles of transverse knitting. (a) Loose pullover; (b) Bat sleeve cardigan; (c) Trumpet skirt"

Fig.3

Four arrangements of J and S curves and treatment of collar. (a) J curve arrangement method; (b) S curve arrangement method"

Fig.4

Bat sleeve cardigan basic template and key parts"

Fig.5

Diagram of skirt belt with holes(a) and skirt lining belt (b)"

Fig.6

Diagram of loose pullover. (a) Knitting process; (b) Configuration of feeders; (c) Front of sample cloth; (d) Back of sample cloth"

Fig.7

Diagram of bat sleeve cardigan. (a) Knitting process; (b) Configuration of feeders; (c) Front of sample cloth; (d) Back of sample cloth"

Fig.8

Diagram of trumpet skirt. (a) Knitting process; (b) Configuration of feeders; (c) Front of sample cloth; (d) Back of sample cloth"

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