Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (06): 99-104.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190604406

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Pattern design method of traditional cheongsam

LIU Yongmei1,2, HAN Tianqi1, ZHANG Xianghui1,2(), LÜ Fanglan1   

  1. 1. Fashion and Art Design Institute, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
  • Received:2019-06-18 Revised:2020-03-03 Online:2020-06-15 Published:2020-06-28
  • Contact: ZHANG Xianghui E-mail:zhangxianghui@dhu.edu.cn

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Abstract:

In order to solve the problems that the existing pattern design methods of traditional cheongsam were difficult to understand and deduce due to parameter mixing and subjective judgment, a pattern design method for traditional cheongsam was proposed in this paper. Better understanding on connotation and characteristics of the style were established through field visits to museums and interviews with experts. The typical traditional cheongsam style samples were selected, and the characteristics of waist and shoulder line of sleeves were classified and analyzed with overlay analysis to summarize two types of typical styles. The structure design were studied for these two typical styles, and the pattern design method for the traditional cheongsam was proposed based on the Donghua clothing structure design theory. Six subjects with different shapes were selected for the pattern experiment, including the static wearing experiment and the action activity experiment. The sample garment made by this method achieves better wearing effect in both states, which verifies the feasibility and deducibility of this method.

Key words: cheongsam style, pattern design of cheongsam, cheongsam without darts, prototype design, wearing experiment

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.7

Fig.1

Style outline curve. (a) Class A cheongsam style overlay; (b) Class B cheongsam style overlay"

Fig.2

Typical cheongsam style illustration. (a) Class A; (b) Class B"

Fig.3

Body designing. (a) Length designing; (b) Circumference designing"

Fig.4

Sleeve designing. (a) Cuff designing; (b) Sleeve designing"

Fig.5

Collar designing. (a) Neckline designing;(b) Collar designing"

Fig.6

Sleeve designing. (a) Basic sleeve designing;(b) Basic sleeve fit body desigining"

Fig.7

Sample results of white fabric(a), acetic acid fabrics (b), and satin fabrics (c)"

Tab.1

Subjects' main measurement data"

受试者
编号		 身高/
cm		 胸围/
cm		 腰围/
cm		 腹围/
cm		 臀围/
cm		 肩宽/
cm		 体重/
kg
1 162 74.0 60.5 73 86 38.0 43.5
2 163 79.5 61.0 70 84 38.0 44.0
3 162 81.5 61.0 68 92 39.0 47.0
4 164 88.0 64.0 78 94 38.5 53.0
5 162 90.0 65.5 78 91 38.5 51.0
6 165 90.0 66.0 74 92 39.5 55.0

Tab.2

Subjects' body type classification"

编号 1 2 3 4 5 6
体型 1 I A X O V

Fig.8

Subject 3 static wearing effect. (a) Try-on effect of style A; (b) Try-on effect of style B"

Fig.9

Action activity effect. (a) Upper body joints and girth action; (b) Lower body joints and girth related action"

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