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Table of Content

    15 June 2020, Volume 41 Issue 06
    • Fiber Materials
      Extraction of oligomers from bio-based propylene terephthalate polyester and its thermal properties
      WANG Jingjing, CHEN Yong, WANG Chaosheng, WANG Huaping, BIAN Shuchang, WU Jing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190705607
      Abstract ( 400 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2537KB) ( 204 )   Save
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      Aiming at the problem that the formation of a large number of cyclic oligomers in the industrialization process of current bio-based propylene terephthalate (bio-based PTT) is likely to adversely affect subsequent processing, the Soxhlet extraction method and the dissolution-precipitation method were used to characterize and analyze cyclic oligomers extracted from PTT slices, fibers and powder samples. It is reported from this research that the content of cyclic oligomers extracted from the fiber sample was 3.6%, which is about 1% higher than the slice. The main component of the oligomer is cyclic dimer, and its mass fraction is 85%-90% of the total of oligomers. Low levels of cyclic trimer, cyclic tetramer, cyclic pentamer, and cyclic heptamer are detected at the same time, and the total content of these components is about 10%-15%. The thermal stability of cyclic oligomers is found much lower than that of bio-based PTT polymers and higher than polymers in melting point, showing function of nucleating agent and could promote the crystallization of polymers.

      Preparation and properties of proton exchange membrane made from graphene oxide quantum dots/polyacrylonitrile nanofiber composites
      WANG Shubo, QIN Xiangpu, SHI Lei, ZHUANG Xupin, LI Zhenhuan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  8-13.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190600506
      Abstract ( 274 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2706KB) ( 106 )   Save
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      In order to improve the proton conductivity and dimensional stability of the Nafion proton exchange membrane, a well-designed structure is in high demand. A graphene oxide quantum dot (GOQDs) / polyacrylonitrile (PAN) nanofiber membrane was prepared by electrostatic spinning technology, and a nanofiber composite proton exchange membrane was prepared by Nafion solution impregnation method. The structures and properties of nanofibers and composite membranes were characterized by scanning electron microscope, confocal microscopy, thermal gravimetric analyzer and X-ray diffractometer. The results show that GOQDs are evenly distributed in PAN nanofibers, and the addition of GOQDs reduces the diameter of the nanofiber. The three-dimensional network structure of nanofibers plays a skeletal support role in the composite membrane, which improves the dimensional stability of the composite membrane. At the same time, the thermal stability and water absorption of the composite membrane is improved. With the increase of GOQDs mass fraction, the proton conductivity of the composite membrane is improved, and the maximum proton conductivity of the composite membrane reaches 0.182 S/cm at 80 ℃.

      Preparation and antibacterial property of polyacrylonitrile antibacterial composite nanofiber membranes
      JIA Lin, WANG Xixian, TAO Wenjuan, ZHANG Haixia, QIN Xiaohong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  14-20.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191002807
      Abstract ( 448 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (3382KB) ( 216 )   Save
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      In order to study and analyze the effects of different antibacterial agents on polyacrylonitrile (PAN) antibacterial nanofibers and further develop functional nanofiber textiles, PAN/triclosan (PAN/TCS) and PAN/TiO2 antibacterial composite nanofiber membranes were prepared through electrospinning technology, and their morphologies and properties were tested and analyzed using scan electron microscope, and Fourier infrared spectrometer. The results show that compared with pure PAN nanofiber membrane, the diameter of PAN/TCS and PAN/TiO2 antibacterial nanofiber membrane decreases by 39%-71%, and the tensile strength increase by 12%-88%. PAN/TCS composite nanofibers show a bacteriostatic zone of more than 1 mm for Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. However, no bacterial inhibition zone is found in PAN/TiO2 composite nanofibers because TiO2 is a non-soluble antibacterial agent. The antibacterial rates of PAN/TCS and PAN/TiO2 composite nanofibers on Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli reach more than 91.98%, and the inhibitory rates increase when the mass fractions of triclosan and TiO2.

      Preparation of fibrous membrane by blending polymethacrylate with polyacrylate and its oil/water separation property
      HAO Zhifen, XU Naiku, FENG Yan, DUAN Mengxin, XIAO Changfa
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  21-26.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190800406
      Abstract ( 263 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (3010KB) ( 103 )   Save
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      In order to realize the efficient separation of oil and water in water pollution system, poly (butyl acrylate-co-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) and poly (butyl methacrylate-co-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) were synthesized by solution polymerization. The blended solution with the two polymers was used for electrospinning to prepare micro-structurally adjustable fibrous membrane material to separate different oil/water mixtures, and its separation capacity for different oil/water mixtures was explored. The results demonstrate that the fibrous membrane obtained from blending the two copolymer solutions in the volume ratio of 3∶7 shows significant separation capability for diesel/water mixture and sunflower oil/water mixture. When it is repeatedly used for 5 times and 7 times to separate the two oil/water mixtures, the separation time are lower than 390 s and 110 s, respectively. Tetrahydrofuran (THF) was introduced into the above-mentioned blended solution to adjust continually the microstructure of the electrospun fibrous membrane, and the obtained fibrous membrane is proven to separate highly viscous emulsified oil from water quickly.

      Finite element simulation on wear resistance of copper-plated carbon fiber tows
      DAI Xin, LI Jing, CHEN Chen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  27-35.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190101809
      Abstract ( 368 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (5408KB) ( 181 )   Save
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      In order to improve the abrasion resistance of carbon fiber tow, copper plating on the surface of carbon fiber tow was proposed. Firstly, a mesoscopic model for resin-based carbon fiber tow was established in Solidworks, and the sliding friction damage between a carbon fiber tow and a copper-plated heald wire eye during shedding was simulated using ABAQUS, and the progressive damage failure model of fiber composite was used for the damage evolution analysis. Then the resin-based carbon fiber tow was changed to copper-plated carbon fiber tow, and the feasibility of the model was verified by simulation of tensile loading. The wear resistance of copper-plated carbon fiber tow was simulated by Archard model. Finally, the stiffness of the fiber tow was simulated using ABAQUS. The results show that when the thickness of copper plating layer is 1.0 μm, the wear resistance predicted by the simulation of a copper-plated carbon fiber tow is about twice that of a carbon fiber tow with a sizing rate of 0.32% and a slurry mass fraction of 3%. Carbon fiber tow plated with 0.5-1 μm copper layer demonstrates optimal weavability.

      Textile Engineering
      Spinning workshop collaborative scheduling method based on simulated annealing genetic algorithm
      ZHENG Xiaohu, BAO Jinsong, MA Qingwen, ZHOU Heng, ZHANG Liangshan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  36-41.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181107906
      Abstract ( 232 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1838KB) ( 140 )   Save
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      In order to solve the multi-objective scheduling problem of automated guided vehicle(AGV) spinning workshop collaborative scheduling system, under the four constraints of technology, processing equipment resources, AGV resources, and batch processing, an AGV spinning workshop collaborative scheduling system model that meets the minimum completion time and maximizes equipment utilization was established. Then, based on the shortcomings of simulated annealing and genetic algorithm, such as low efficiency and easy to fall into local optimal solution, a spinning scheduling system based on simulated annealing genetic algorithm was proposed. The results show that when the number of cotton drums is 50, the scheduling scheme based on simulated annealing genetic algorithm is reduced by 1 162 s and 1 619 s respectively than the simulated annealing and genetic algorithm in the same environment. The utilization rate of equipment and AGV in the yarn workshop has also increased by nearly 12% and 11% respectively. This method has application value in improving the operation efficiency of the ring spinning workshop.

      Research on design and practice of integral woven fabrics with square lining structure
      MA Yanxue, WANG Shina, LI Yuling, WEN Run
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  42-47.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190400806
      Abstract ( 221 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (2927KB) ( 111 )   Save
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      In view of the shortage of traditional quilted down products, a square lining structure fabric was designed. With proper structure design and weaving parameter settings, this special square lining structure fabric had been integrally woven on the machine, shortening the production process and reducing cost and material waste. Height of the square lining structure was variable according to the down product requirements. Weaving practice indicates that size of the square lining structure after weaving is the same as the designed structure, and the actual height is 1.5 cm, satisfying demands of down products in the market. Results also present that the heat retention of down with the square lining structure doubled that with sewing structures, and the weft floats in down filling areas could prevent filled down feather moving.

      Innovative design of fabrics combining jacquard design and printing and clipping with a two-layer effect
      JIN Shiyi, ZHOU Jiu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  48-54.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190803107
      Abstract ( 355 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (4266KB) ( 104 )   Save
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      In order to create new ideas for innovative design of fabrics with multiple effects, this research worked to combine the design of two-layer jacquard (J) fabrics with printing (P) and clipping(C), and put forward the design method for JPC fabrics with an two-layer effect. The method made it possible for a jacquard fabric to be printed on and to be clipped or burnt-out for pattern creation. The work divided the fabric into the jacquard layer, clipping layer and printing layer, and conceived from pattern design and weave structure design to put forward feasible technical scheme. The design practice showes that it is feasible to complete the innovative design of JPC fabrics with a two-layer effect, and to construct an innovative system of JPC fabrics to integrate characteristics of two-layer, jacquard, printing and clipping into one. Such created fabric is able to show four static and three dynamic effect combinations.

      Estimating water content of acetate fiber spunlaced nonwovens with dielectric spectroscopy
      LÜ Hanming, WANG Xiangyu, LIU Fengkun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  55-60.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191002606
      Abstract ( 215 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1945KB) ( 142 )   Save
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      In order to estimate the moisture content of acetate spunlaced nonwovens, the dielectric spectra of acetate nonwovens with different volume fractions and different water contents were tested. The effect of the volume fraction of dry acetate nonwovens and the effect of the volume fraction of moisture on its dielectric constant were analyzed. And the relationship between the dielectric constant change rate of the unit mass acetate nonwoven and the water content was established. The experimental results show that the dielectric constant of dry acetate is not sensitive to the electric field frequency. There is a significant linear relationship between the volume fraction of acetate and its dielectric constant. At the same time, the volume fraction of water in the nonwoven fabric-water aggregate is exponentially related to the dielectric constant. When the electric field frequency is 1 Hz and 1×106 Hz, the moisture content of the sample has an exponential function relationship with its dielectric constant. There is a power function relationship between the moisture content of the sample and the change rate of the dielectric constant per unit mass.

      Elastic parameters calculation of liners of self-lubricating spherical plain bearings
      WANG Jiugen, GUO Hao, HONG Yufang, CHEN Fanghua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  61-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190702408
      Abstract ( 244 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2304KB) ( 193 )   Save
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      In order to accurately predict mechanical parameters of self-lubricating spherical plain bearings, the representative volume element mesoscopic geometric model had been modified considering compaction of liner preform. Elastic performance analysis model combined with bridging model had been established. The elastic properties of plain, twill and satin liners were calculated with the analytical method. Compared with experimental data carried by other researchers, the maximum relative errors between theoretical and experimental values are 4.76%, 5.47% and 4.39% respectively. For the bridging parameters used to calculate the elastic constants of different fiber bundles, if the ratio of the elastic modulus of the fibers and the matrix in the axial direction of the fiber bundle is large, using α smaller than β could obtain more accurate results. Values of α and β can be determined by simple tensile and shear tests of the fiber bundles if experimental conditions are adequate.

      Three-dimensional simulation of multiple high-low loop tufting carpet based on Rhino-Python
      DAI Zhenxing, CHEN Guangfeng, CHEN Ge
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  69-75.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190604907
      Abstract ( 398 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (5851KB) ( 77 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problem that the multiple high-low loop tufting carpet with complex spatial structure lacks realism when realizing the three-dimensional simulation of its appearance, PythonScript under Rhino environment was used to realize the three-dimensional simulation of the appearance of tufted carpet. By segmenting the loop centerline and section curve, the relevant control point coordinates were locally solved, and then the two were fitted by the B-spline curve. At the same time, considering the mutual squeezing of the carpet loops, the loops were randomly deflected and deformed, and the state after the loops were deformation was simulated by a design algorithm. On this basis, the loop surface texture and lighting model were added to further render and output the simulation results. The test results show that the three-dimensional simulation method of tufted carpet using the B-spline curve fitting principle and the Rhino-Python platform is feasible and easy to implement. Compared with actual carpet samples, it can more realistically simulate tufted carpets with various flower patterns and loop height changes under different yarn arrangements.

      Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals
      Preparation and sizing properties of caproylated starch
      LI Wei, JING Yuanwei, ZHANG Zhengqiao, NI Qingqing, XU Zhenzhen, LIU Xinhua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  76-80.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190904705
      Abstract ( 310 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1693KB) ( 81 )   Save
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      In order to provide a suitable modified starch for warp sizing of hydrophobic fibers especially for polylactic acid (PLA) fibers, caproylated starch (CS) samples with different degrees of substitution were prepared by using caproic anhydride as esterifying agent. The structure of CS was characterized by Fourier transform infrared analysis. The influence of the caproylation on paste and film properties was investigated. The results show that the caproylation could enhance viscosity stability of gelatinized starch paste, its adhesion to polylactic acid and polyester fibers, and breaking elongation of starch film. In addition, the modification causes decrease in tensile strength of starch film. When the degrees of substitution are below 0.025, the adhesion demonstrats a gradual increase, and it reaches the highest value at 0.025 and then gradually decreases. The elongation of CS film rose gradually but the strength reduced. The stabilities of the CS pastes are worsened as the degree of substitution is increased, but are higher than that of acid-converted corn starch paste.

      Silk fabric dyed with gardenia blue pigment
      SONG Huijun, ZHAI Yali, CHAO Yiyuan, ZHU Chaoyu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  81-85.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190203505
      Abstract ( 351 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1583KB) ( 140 )   Save
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      Facing the problem that silk fabrics dyed with natural dyes has insufficient blue color, gardenia blue was used in dyeing silk fabrics as an attempt to enrich the chromatogram of silk fabrics dyed with natural dyes. The effects of the dyeing process on dye uptake was studied, and dyeing kinetics and dyeing thermodynamics of silk fabrics dyed with gardenia blue were studied according to the dyeing rate curve and adsorption isotherm respectively. The results show that the optimum dyeing condition is dyeing at pH=3 and 60 ℃ for 50 min. When dyeing at pH=3 and 60 ℃, the adsorption of pigments to silk fabrics responds to the quasi-second-order kinetic, indicating chemical adsorption. The adsorption isotherm conforms to Langmuir-type adsorption isotherm, suggesting a localized adsorption. The dyeing saturation value of gardenia blue dyeing silk is 97.465 9 g/kg according to Langmuir's adsorption isotherm formula.

      Kinetic and thermodynamic of reactive dye study on silk fabric modification in ethanol/water system
      ZHANG Wei, MAO Qingkai, ZHU Peng, CHAI Xiong, LI Huijun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  86-92.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190500207
      Abstract ( 234 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2217KB) ( 117 )   Save
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      In order to further improve the dyeing depth of silk, on the dyeing of cationic surfactant-modified silk in the ethanol/water system by Reactive Red 3BS was reported. The effects of temperature, pH value, material ratio (o.w.f) and time on the modified silk were analyzed. The kinetics and thermodynamic mechanisms of the modified silk in the ethanol/water system were explored. The experimental results show that the temperature is the factor influencing the K/S value, the light and dark value, the red and green value, the yellow and blue value and the total color difference of the modified silk. As the temperature increase, the dyeing rate constant demonstrates an increase and then decreased afterwards. The saturated adsorption amount, partition coefficient and standard affinity gradually increases while the half dyeing time gradually decreases. The dyeing enthalpy is -28.693 kJ/mol, and the dyeing entropy of the modified silk is -0.066 kJ/(℃·mol), indicating that the dyeing process of the modified silk in ethanol/water is exothermic. It is noted that although the dyed depth of the modified silk was improved, the dyeing fastness shows no substantially change.

      Effect of boron nitrogen doped carbon dots on ultraviolet-protection of cotton fabrics
      CHENG Shijie, WANG Chenyang, ZHANG Hongwei, ZUO Danying
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  93-98.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190900606
      Abstract ( 301 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (2455KB) ( 259 )   Save
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      In order to improve the UV-resistant ability of cotton fabrics, boron-nitrogen-doped carbon dots (BN-CDs) were synthesized by a one-step hydrothermal method with citric acid, ethylenediamine and borax as raw materials. BN-CDs aqueous solution, BN-CDs/PVA aqueous solution and BN-CDs/waterborne polyurethane aqueous solution were sprayed on the surface of cotton fabric, respectively, and then the cotton fabric was rolled and dried. The results show that the prepared BN-CD is a graphite-like nanocrystal having a rich hydroxyl group and amine group on the surface, which make BN-CDs soluble in water. BN-CDs has a strong absorption peak in the ultraviolet region, and could emit bright blue fluorescence which is independent of excitation wavelengths. The finished cotton fabrics show high UV protection factors (UPF), BN-CDs/WPU finishing has the optimal effect. After 10 times washing, the UPF value remained at around 48, achieving the excellent protection level. The surface morphology of the cotton fabric is basically unchanged, and the hand feel was good, and meeting the ultraviolet protection requirement of the cotton fabrics.

      Apparel Engineering
      Pattern design method of traditional cheongsam
      LIU Yongmei, HAN Tianqi, ZHANG Xianghui, LÜ Fanglan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  99-104.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190604406
      Abstract ( 449 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (2824KB) ( 319 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problems that the existing pattern design methods of traditional cheongsam were difficult to understand and deduce due to parameter mixing and subjective judgment, a pattern design method for traditional cheongsam was proposed in this paper. Better understanding on connotation and characteristics of the style were established through field visits to museums and interviews with experts. The typical traditional cheongsam style samples were selected, and the characteristics of waist and shoulder line of sleeves were classified and analyzed with overlay analysis to summarize two types of typical styles. The structure design were studied for these two typical styles, and the pattern design method for the traditional cheongsam was proposed based on the Donghua clothing structure design theory. Six subjects with different shapes were selected for the pattern experiment, including the static wearing experiment and the action activity experiment. The sample garment made by this method achieves better wearing effect in both states, which verifies the feasibility and deducibility of this method.

      Design and implementation of electronic monitoring system for intelligent sports bra
      WANG Jianping, XU Shuo, WANG Zhujun, YAO Xiaofeng, LI Yonggui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  105-111.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181204207
      Abstract ( 312 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (3419KB) ( 159 )   Save
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      People's demand for sports and keeping fit ever increases, and requirements for comfort and intelligence of sportswear becomes high. This research worked on the design of intelligent sports bra facilitating the collection of various physiological parameters and motion information of the human body during exercise. Various small sensors and low-power control chips were employed to create the electronic system scheme and workflow of smart clothing. In this research, a basic intelligent sports bra was designed and developed through optimizing traditional sports bra, collecting information such as position, movement state, body temperature, and heart rate and perspiration parameters. The data was uploaded to the terminal by wirelessly to analyze the current physiological state and exercise effect of the human body for determining the health status, and provide early warning to the user through an intelligent terminal.

      Predicting thermal protective performance of clothing based on maximum attenuation factor model
      HE Jiazhen, XUE Xiaoyu, WANG Min, LI Jun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  112-117.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191100106
      Abstract ( 228 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF (1509KB) ( 115 )   Save
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      It is well recognized that the full-scale instrumented flame manikin test is exceptionally costly, inefficient to perform, and it does not have a unified evaluation index as compared to the bench-scale test. This study aimed to solve this problem by adopting a new developed evaluation model, maximum attenuation factor, to investigate both the bench-scale test and the full-scale flame manikin test, and to establish a prediction model of thermal protective performance of clothing based on the fabric tests. Results show that there is a significant correlation between thermal protective performance of fabrics and clothing. When the maximum attenuation factor value of the fabric, the average air gap thickness of clothing and its exposure time are used as inputting parameters, the thermal protective performance of clothing and the percentage of skin burn injury can be well predicted. The absolute error between predicted MAF and the experimental value is only 5.1%.

      Thermal function effectiveness and location of heating device in cold protective clothing
      WU Daiwei, LI Hongyan, DAI Yanyang, SU Yun, WANG Yunyi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  118-124.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190603707
      Abstract ( 310 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2930KB) ( 183 )   Save
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      In current research on using heating device in cold protective clothing, it is found that there was a lack of overall design on heating position and quantitative analysis on heating temperature range. In order to obtain the optimal combination of heating device and cold protective clothing, a commercial clothing heating device was employed to meet human thermal comfort and improve heating efficiency. Various combination experiments were carried out at -11.8 ℃ through a thermal manikin test (the manikin was standing still). The results reveal that five body zones including upper chest, shoulder, abdomen, forearm and calf are the suitable heating places. It is recommended to heat up outside the lining of clothing liner, and the suitable heating temperature range for each location is given as 37-40 ℃ for abdomen, 40-44 ℃ for shoulder, 44-49 ℃ for upper chest, over 49 ℃ for forearm and calf. Better heating effect is obtained with higher clothing thermal resistance. The results provid data foundations for the design and development of thermal functions for heating clothing.

      Clothing comfort evaluation based on transfer learning and support vector machine
      XIA Haibang, HUANG Hongyun, DING Zuohua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  125-131.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191101007
      Abstract ( 326 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF (2659KB) ( 126 )   Save
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      The traditional methods for clothing comfort evaluation is carried out through the try-on effect of the garment, which requires much time but with low evaluation accuracy. This paper presented a clothing comfort evaluation model learning from clothing patterns based on the transfer learning and support vector machine fast and accurately. The sizes of mannequins and the graphs of garment patterns were firstly collected, and the graphs of garment patterns were improved by using transfer learning to create garment pattern database. Then, a comfort label acquisition method was presented based on Virtual Try-On, adding comfort label to the corresponding graph of garment pattern. Following that, local binary pattern was extracted from the graph of garment pattern, and it was combined with the sizes of the corresponding mannequins to form clothing comfort feature vector. Finally, the clothing comfort feature vectors of garment pattern database were extracted to train the support vector machine. This exercise shows that the accuracy and average time to evaluate clothing comfort using this method are 0.834 and 12 s respectively, representing satisfactory accuracy and efficiency.

      Construction of order management system for clothing customization for small and medium enterprises
      YU Xiaoli, JIN Juanfeng, HUANG Zhenzhen, LÜ Huizhu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  132-140.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190704509
      Abstract ( 236 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (3301KB) ( 188 )   Save
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      In the process of developing personalized customization business, small and medium-sized clothing companies are prone to problems such as weak market adaptability, insufficient information input, and weak data utilization capabilities. This paper reported on the establishment of an order cloud management system using software as a service (SaaS) model. Following the analysis of the main functional requirements of the management system, clothing customized business process, taking full advantage of cloud computing services, was optimized. A material management coding system and a business data information system were created to facilitate easy computer processing. The technical framework of the order management system was built with three levels of hierarchy, and the intelligent operation platform and core computing technology for the main business units were built. Java programming language was used to develop the order management system, permitting entire process, real-time, and all-round sharing of order information, with the aim to effectively promote the information management quality of clothing customization business.

      Machinery & Accessories
      Online cheese package yarn density detection system based on machine vision
      ZHANG Jianxin, LI Qi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  141-146.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190801106
      Abstract ( 295 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2618KB) ( 112 )   Save
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      In order to solve the problems of low efficiency and complex operation of the traditional measurement methods of package density, and improve the automation of the detection of package density, an on-line detection system for cheese package yarn density based on machine vision was designed. The system consists of a weight sensor, a photoelectric sensor, a blue light source, an industrial camera, a transmission device and an industrial computer. This research studied the image correction algorithm of the package yarn, established the package yarn correction model according to the perspective projection theory, restored the linear characteristics of the upper and lower boundaries of the package yarn, obtained the ideal side image of the package yarn, and achieved the accurate volume of the package yarn by the integration method. Through testing yarn density of 150 cheese packages, it is shown that the yarn density is able to be calculated by combining the weight data of high-precision weight sensor through converting the actual maximum diameter and volume parameters to pixel equivalent. The work illustrates that the detection system is able to detect the yarn package density online with acceptable detection accuracy and stability.

      Research on automatic counterweight scheme for cheese yarn packaging
      PENG Laihu, ZHU Xiaoyu, ZHANG Shaomin, HU Xudong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  147-152.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190303106
      Abstract ( 236 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2220KB) ( 116 )   Save
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      Facing the problem that the cheese yarns are packed through manual counterweight with low efficiency, large error, and low consistency of the quality, an on-line dynamic weighing and automatic counterweight scheme for cheese yarn packaging line was proposed. According to the packing principles of the cheese yarn and the requirement of controlling the total quality error of the cheese yarn packing bag, the automatic dynamic conveying packing process line for the cheese yarns was designed. The automatic weighting method of the cheese yarn quality based on three-dimensional cheese yarn warehouse was studied, emphasizing on the basic working principle of the three-dimensional warehouse yarn storage, the purpose, principle and scheme of the automatic ratio of the quality of the package bag in the dynamic conveying process. The calculated results show that the method of automatic weighting of cheese yarn with interval distribution and mass ratio is effective, and the design scheme of automatic weighting packaging system is reasonable and feasible.

      Improvement scheme and practice of weft-straightening machine
      LIU Jianbao, LI Ping, JIN Fujiang, MEI Xiaohua
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  153-160.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190706708
      Abstract ( 355 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1995KB) ( 149 )   Save
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      The existing weft-straightening machine for woven fabrics has poor corrective effect on common types of weft skewness such as double bow and double hook, and computation for readjustment of rotating speed is complex for the weft-straightening machine. Accordingly, an improved scheme of weft-straightening machine was designed and experimented. Firstly, an improved structure of multi-roll weft straightener was proposed after analyzing the principle of weft straightening of roller weft straightener. The equation was used to simulate the common weft skew types, and the initial weft shape was obtained for calculating the weft slope of the fabric before weft correction. Eight points on the weft was used to describe the weft slope, and the simulation database of weft skew detection was thus established. Finally, a method was designed to obtain the adjustments of each weft roll by using the least square method based on the detected weft inclination data, reducing the computational complexity and enabling the calculation of the weft slope after weft rectification according to the final orientation of the weft. Experimental results show that the effect of weft-straightening machine is improved by readjusting the weft straightener, leading to a 100% first-class fabric qualification rate for different types of weft skew problems.

      Control technology for density motor used in seamless underwear machines
      DAI Ning, HU Xudong, PENG Laihu, ZHONG Yaosen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  161-167.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190505707
      Abstract ( 251 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2794KB) ( 85 )   Save
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      Facing the problem that the control of the density motor used in current seamless underwear machines is unstable, this research was carried out to investigate the performance characteristics of the density motor, proposing a density motor control scheme based on CAN bus. According to the processing characteristics of the density motor control stitch cam, the overall implementation of the control technology was expounded. The key circuit design and program algorithm was studied, and the protocol for controlling the action characteristics of the density motor was established. In order to avoid the long-term operation of density motor appearing the horizontal stripes caused by the lost step phenomenon, detecting error mode by zero-return was proposed. The test results indicate that the control technology facilitate the position control of the density motor and improve the stability of the seamless underwear machine density motor control, with cost savings compared to density motors with encoders, meeting the control requirements of the seamless underwear machine for the density motor.

      Comprehensive Review
      Review on carbon fiber surface modification using electrophoretic deposition of carbon nanotubes and graphene oxide
      LI Liping, WU Daoyi, ZHAN Yikai, HE Min
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  168-173.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190304306
      Abstract ( 497 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1992KB) ( 441 )   Save
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      Carbon fiber (CF) surface has few polar functional groups, and hence is chemically inactive, leading to weak interface bonding strength with the matrix in composites. Aiming at this problem, this article reviewed the latest research progress in carbon fiber surface modification with electrophoretic deposition of carbon nanotubes and graphene oxide to improve the mechanical properties of composites. Based on the adoption of the electrophoretic deposition processes, the work on carbon fiber surface modification with carbon nanotubes and graphene oxide and the effect of the fiber modification on mechanical properties of modified carbon fiber and their composite materials were described. The factors affecting the effect of electrophoretic deposition on modified carbon fibers were summarized, and corresponding suggestions were put forward. The research trend in carbon fiber surface modification based on the use of electrophoretic deposition was explained, and the paper pointed out that pretreatment of carbon fiber, carbon nanotubes and graphene oxide, and the addition of auxiliary electrophoretic deposition equipment manufacturing will become an important research direction in the future.

      Research progress in preparation of hierarchically structured air filter materials by electrospinning
      HONG Xianliang, CHEN Xiaohui, ZHANG Jianqing, LIU Junjie, HUANG Chen, DING Yike, HONG Hui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  174-182.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190504509
      Abstract ( 427 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (2541KB) ( 189 )   Save
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      This review paper was written to promote applications of electrospun nanofibers in the field of air filtration, and to report development of new nanofiber air filtration membranes with more performance advantages. The latest progress in the preparation of air filtration materials was reviewed in the areas of micro-nano-bulge, nano-spider web, layer-by-layer composite, porous, spiny, tree-like and core-shell structures by electro-spinning. The preparation methods of hierarchical micro-nano air filtration materials were analyzed, discussed and critically commented. While the progress and shortcomings of existing work were pointed out. This paper also proposed future development directions for this research area. The review concludes that the hierarchical structure is effective in functionalizing filtration materials (such as high efficiency, low resistance, high strength, flame retardant, and so on) and has better application prospects than traditional nanofiber filtration materials.

      Research progress in optical imaging technology for detecting foreign fibers in cotton
      DONG Chaoqun, DU Yuhong, REN Weijia, ZHAO Di
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  183-189.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190506807
      Abstract ( 277 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (1165KB) ( 207 )   Save
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      In order to further improve the detection rate of foreign fibers in cotton, the application of optical imaging technology in foreign fiber detection was explored. The principle and detection effect of ultraviolet, X-ray, linear laser, polarized light, infrared light and hyper-spectral imaging technology were evaluated and analyzed on the advantages and limitations of the various imaging methods, and the existing problems and deficiencies in the current research were summarized. It is considered that different imaging methods should be applied to detect different types of foreign fibers, and it is not possible to detect all types of foreign fibers at the same time. Moreover, the multi-camera imaging scheme and the improvement of camera resolution are found to increase the redundant information of images and affect the detection speed. At the same time, most of the testing methods are only verified under laboratory conditions and are short of verification in actual production environment. It is pointed out that the future research should focus on multi-camera multi-light source imaging scheme, and should work to reduce the redundancy of image information. Light sources should be reasonably selected on type, quantity, power and installation mode, and an automatic parameter adjustment system should be developed for imaging systems.

      Development and research prospect of cotton spinning spindles
      MO Shuai, FENG Zhanyong, DANG Heyu, ZOU Zhenxing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(06):  190-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190603007
      Abstract ( 247 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2014KB) ( 371 )   Save
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      In order to meet the needs of high-speed energy-saving and spinning automation of cotton spinning machine spindles, the research on cotton spinning spindles has begun to break through the development of traditional structural types. This paper introduces the development history and structural evolution of cotton spinning spindles, and summarizes the latest research on cotton spinning spindles at home and abroad, and analyzes the latest theoretical results of three types of high-speed energy-saving, magnetic-driven and single-motor-driven spindles. According to the review results of the literature, it is pointed out that under the background of the collective doffing transformation of the textile industry, the new high-speed energy-saving spindles are still the main application components of the textile industry, and with the efficient and intelligent development of the textile industry and the in-depth study of related technologies. Single-motor-driven spindles will replace traditional mechanical spindles and become an important part of the smart textile industry.