Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (07): 53-58.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190803306

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Research and implementation of flat-bed knitting process model of fully formed suit

LIU Bo, CONG Honglian()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2019-08-13 Revised:2020-03-22 Online:2020-07-15 Published:2020-07-23
  • Contact: CONG Honglian E-mail:cong-wkrc@163.com

Abstract:

In order to further study the process of fully formed suit, and to solve the problem that the conventional circular knitting method is difficult to produce suits with complex structures and styles, this paper proposed a method for fully formed suits by decomposing a suit along the back midline into left and right pieces for knitting and stitching. The flat-bed knitting method was investigated into based on a four-needle bed flat knitting machine. Started from the flat-bed knitting principle and method, the parameters were set according to the process model, and then the design of a full-form suit was implemented. The results show that the flat-bad knitting method is feasible, in which the back collar and the back center of the suit need to be stitched off the machine, and the T-shaped, X-shaped and other wide-shaped suit styles with different structural sizes of the front and back were realized using this method. The double-sided double-layer structures for the collar and the placket, the back center line, the side suture can also be formed at the same time to increase the suitability of the suit.

Key words: fully formed suit, four-needle computerized flat-bed knitting machine, flat-bed knitting, process model

CLC Number: 

  • TS184.5

Fig.1

Classification diagram of knitting method of suits. (a) Vertical overall knitting; (b) Left and right pieces are separated by vertical knitting; (c) Left and right pieces are separated by horizontal knitting"

Fig.2

Horizontal knitting expansion of left piece pattern of fully formed suit. (a) Body pattern; (b) Sleeve pattern"

Fig.3

Forming process model of horizontally knitted suit collar. (a) Diagram of collar pattern connection and stitching;(b) Process diagram of collar rotation transformation"

Fig.4

Forming process model of horizontally knitted suit sleeve and body. (a) Diagram of sleeve and body pattern connection and stitching;(b) Process diagram of sleeve and body rotation transformation"

Fig.5

Horizontal knitting proportion process model. (a) Diagram of sleeve mountain; (b) Enlarged schematic diagram of sliding color block"

Fig.6

Forming process model of horizontally knitted suit sleeve mountain correction. (a) Sleeve mountain;(b) Sleeve mountain correction enlargement"

Fig.7

Left and right piece conversion method of horizontally knitted suit. (a) Left piece; (b) Flip left piece horizontally; (c) Swap front and back of left piece"

Fig.8

Moss stitch structure. (a)Back piece 1×1 rib knitting;(b) Front piece 1×1 rib knitting; (c)Back piece 1×1 rib alternately knitting; (d) Front piece 1×1 rib alternately knitting"

Fig.9

Face loop and miss stitch alternate structure. (a) Front and back piece face loop and miss stitch alternately knitting; (b) Miss and face loop stitch alternately knitting"

Tab.1

Yarn ring length setting"

位置 线圈长度/mm
上针床 下针床
大身 6.2 6.4
袖口 6.0 6.2
前片(废纱组织) 6.0 7.2
后片(废纱组织) 4.5 4.5
衣领 6.8 7.0

Tab.2

Yarn setting"

纱嘴号码 使用区域 纱线成分 单纱线密度/tex
2(左) 废纱 涤纶高弹纱 66.7
4(左) 前片大身 天蚕丝 41.7
5(右) 门襟 天蚕丝 41.7
6(左) 后片大身 天蚕丝 41.7
6(右) 双层门襟分隔线 涤纶高弹纱 66.7
8(左) 起头橡筋纱 氨纶包覆纱 59.1
8(右) 分离纱 涤纶缝纫线 14.8

Fig.10

Horizontally knitted suit. (a) Right piece; (b) Left piece;(c) Suits stitched left and right"

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