Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (05): 129-133.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190903105

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Application of oblique split lines in modern cheongsam structure

LI Yuhong, LI Yang, WU Jing   

  1. College of Biomass Science and Engineering, Sichuan University, Chengdu, Sichuan 610044, China
  • Received:2019-09-09 Revised:2020-02-16 Online:2020-05-15 Published:2020-06-02

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Abstract:

In order to innovate structural design of cheongsam, representative sleeveless cheongsam was selected as the research object based on the split line to study the application of oblique structural line in cheongsam. In this paper, two types of cheongsam structures of the same size were designed. The existing oblique cut plate making method was set as the control group, and the structures with different dart sizes in the adjustment line were set as experimental group. Each group of structure was cut in two different directions (vertical and 45 degree oblique), and 4 samples were made. By comparing the dressing effect of the sample clothes, it is proved that the adjusted cheongsam has a better fitting at the waist, meeting the requirement of flat figure fitting for cheongsam. In addition, the vertical cut clothing show better elasticity, but require wider fabric width. Through further analysis of the advantages and disadvantages of the four samples, the applicability of the samples is obtained, establishing the rules for using the oblique split line in cheongsam design.

Key words: oblique split line, obliace cutting, modern cheongsam, split line design

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.26

Fig.1

Basic cheongsam structure drawing. (a) Back piece; (b) Front piece"

Fig.2

Split line plan"

Fig.3

Cheongsam pattern chart with oblique split line"

Fig.4

Cheongsam structure diagram of oblique cut model"

Fig.5

Adjusted cheongsam structure diagram"

Fig.6

Comparison of experimental results"

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