Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (07): 135-140.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20191102206

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Construction of parametric structure model for bias-cut skirt pattern

CHEN Mi, YE Qinwen, ZHANG Gaopeng()   

  1. College of Biomass Science and Engineering, Sichuan University, Chengdu, Sichuan 610065, China
  • Received:2019-11-07 Revised:2020-04-14 Online:2020-07-15 Published:2020-07-23
  • Contact: ZHANG Gaopeng E-mail:zgp@scu.edu.cn

RichHTML

10

PDF (PC)

134

Abstract:

In order to solve the problems of low efficiency related to manual operation of bias-cut skirt pattern, a parametric structure model for bias-cut skirt prototype was proposed to enable the creation of personalized bias-cut skirt patterns quickly and easily, leading to quick generation of paper samples. Firstly, the principle of bias cutting for the bias-cut skirt was analyzed. With the parameterization function of AutoCAD software, the prototype of the parametric structure model of bias-cut skirt was constructed. By adjusting the parameters, the personalized bias-cut skirt pattern was generated. The research shows that the parametric structure model for the bias-cut skirt prototype does not need grading, and personalized bias-cut skirt patterns are able to be generated by only adjusting the key sizes and the pattern bias angle. Also, the number of bias pieces of the prototype can be selected arbitrarily for adjustment. Combined with the use of CLO3D, parametric structure model of bias-cut skirt can be used for virtual fitting, allowing the creation of effect map and pressure map of the clothing to be generated. It is found that such established parametric structure model for bias-cut skirt has good application value and can lead to the improvement of production efficiency.

Key words: bias-cut, skirt, apparel CAD, apparel paper pattern, parametric design, virtual fitting

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.2

Fig.1

Frame of bias-cut skirt"

Fig.2

Sketch of bias-cut skirt"

Fig.3

Parametric schematic of skirt parametric structure mode. (a) Parametric sketch; (b) Parametric sketch of geometric constraint;(c) Parametric sketch of annotation constraint"

Tab.1

Dimensional constraints of parametric bias-cut skirt prototype"

符号 含义 表达式 参考值 类型 单位
S1S2 臀长 T 180 竖直 mm
S1S3 裙长 L 570 竖直 mm
S1S5 直裁臀围 H/n 225 水平 mm
S4S6 斜裁腰围 W/n 170 对齐 mm
S7S8 斜裁臀围 H/n 225 水平 mm
∠S1S9S3 斜裁角度 α 45 角度 (°)

Fig.4

Comparison sketch of specification size adjustment"

Tab.2

Specification size adjustment data mm"

样板 W H L T
原始版 680 900 570 180
修改1 640 860 540 170
修改2 720 940 600 190

Fig.5

Comparison sketch of bias-cut angle adjustment"

Fig.6

Comparison sketch of bias-cut number adjustment"

Fig.7

Sketch of virtual fitting effect. (a) Change in size;(b) Change in angle;(c) Change in number of pieces"

Tab.3

Virtual fitting effect description"

方案 整体款式风格 正视图 后视图
方
案
1		 修改1 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 平整,中部
有凹陷		 平整,无褶皱
原始版 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 平整,中部
稍有凹陷		 平整,无褶皱
修改2 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 平整,中部
有凹陷		 平整,无褶皱
方
案
2		 角度50° 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 平整,中部
有凹陷		 平整,无褶皱
角度55° 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 平整,中部
稍有凹陷		 平整,无褶皱
片数6 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 正、背面平整 平整,无褶皱
片数8 款式合体,符合着装要求,外观效果较好 平整,中部
有凹陷		 平整,无褶皱

Fig.8

Sketch of parametric bias dress virtual fitting pressure. (a) Pressure sketch of specification size;(b) Pressure sketch of bias-cut skirt angle;(c) Pressure sketch of bias cut skirt pieces"

Tab.4

Parametric bias dress pressure parameter"

方案 腰围压力范围/kPa 臀围压力范围/kPa
规格 155/64A 0.80~2.46 1.13~2.47
160/68A 0.86~2.87 1.18~2.31
165/72A 0.66~2.13 1.09~2.50
角度 50° 0.70~2.51 1.09~2.20
55° 0.63~2.66 1.32~2.52
裁片 6片 0.64~2.97 1.06~2.03
8片 0.70~1.81 1.05~1.93
[1] 俞俭. 斜裁在斜向分割结构设计中的应用[J]. 纺织导报, 2008(10):103-105.
YU Jian. Application of bias cutting in pattern design with bias segmentation line[J]. China Textile Leader, 2008(10):103-105.
[2] 丁锡强, 刘国伟. 服装斜裁技术的应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2006,27(8):98-100.
DING Xiqiang, LIU Guowei. Applied research on the technique of bias cut of garments[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2006,27(8):98-100.
[3] 叶勤文, 张皋鹏. 基于AutoCAD参数化的个性化服装纸样生成[J]. 纺织学报, 2019,40(4):103-110.
YE Qinwen, ZHANG Gaopeng. Generation of personalized garment pattern based on AutoCAD parameterization[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019,40(4):103-110.
[4] 罗琴. 参数约束在服装样板智能设计技术中的应用[J]. 西安工程大学学报, 2015,29(2):167-171.
LUO Qin. The application of parameter constraint in the garment intelligent pattern-making technology[J]. Journal of Xi'an Polytechnic University, 2015,29(2):167-171.
[5] 竺梅芳, 徐颖芳. 服装数字化斜裁技术的应用研究[J]. 毛纺科技, 2014,42(3):50-52.
ZHU Meifang, XU Yingfang. Study on technology of digital bias-cut clothes[J]. Wool Textile Journal, 2014,42(3):50-52.
[6] LI Y, LI P. New functions of AutoCAD 2011 inter-face[C] //Advances in Information Technology and Industry Applications. Berlin: Springer-Verlag, 2012: 429-434.
[7] LI Y, LI P. Applications of new function of Auto CAD2011[C] //Advances in Information Technology and Industry Applications. Berlin: Springer-Verlag, 2012: 435-439.
[8] 叶勤文, 陈咪, 张皋鹏. 双圆弧拟合曲线在参数化服装制版中的应用[J]. 东华大学学报(自然科学版), 2014(3):50-52.
YE Qinwen, CHEN Mi, ZHANG Gaopeng. Application of double arc fitting curve in parametric garment plate making[J]. Journal of Donghua University(Natural Science), 2014(3):50-52.
[9] 丁锡强, 刘国伟. 女裙斜裁模型及其应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2008,29(5):94-97.
DING Xiqiang, LIU Guowei. Bias cut of dress models and its application examples[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2008,29(5):94-97.
[10] 丁锡强, 刘国伟. 服装斜裁打版技术全编[M]. 上海: 上海文化出版社, 2009: 20-25.
DING Xiqiang, LIU Guowei. Clothing oblique cutting pattern technology[M]. Shanghai: Shanghai Culture Publishing House, 2009: 20-25.
[11] 张蒙蒙, 庄梅玲, 陈素英. 基于褶皱图像识别的着装合体性评价技术[J]. 服装学报, 2017(12):497-502.
ZHANG Mengmeng, ZHUANG Meiling, CHEN Suying. Dressing evaluation technology based on fold image recognition[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2017(12):497-502.
[12] 程宁波, 吴志明. 服装压力舒适性的研究方法与发展趋势[J]. 丝绸, 2019,56(3):38-44.
CHENG Ningbo, WU Zhiming. Research method and development tendency of garment pressure comfort[J] Journal of Silk, 2019,56(3):38-44.
[13] 田丙强, 徐增波, 胡守忠. 基于CLO3D虚拟试衣技术的着装合体性评估[J]. 东华大学学报(自然科学版), 2018(3):307-402.
TIAN Bingqiang, XU Zengbo, HU Shouzhong. Evaluation of dress fit based on CLO3D virtual fitting technique[J]. Journal of Donghua University(Natural Science), 2018(3):307-402.
[14] 成秀光, 金玉顺. 服装环境学[M]. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 1999: 112-118.
CHENG Xiuguang, JIN Yushun. Clothing environmental science [M]. Beijing: China Textile & Apparel Press, 1999: 112-118.
[1] WANG Ting, GU Bingfei. 3-D modeling of neck-shoulder part based on human photos [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2021, 42(01): 125-132.
[2] LING Yali, ZHU Lingxuan, SHAO Xiaoxuan, LI Zehui, ZHONG Anhua. Development of automatic pattern generation system for Asian men's suits [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(09): 108-113.
[3] LIU Tingting, XU Hong, MEI Xinyuan, LIU Yixin, XIAO Aimin. Young Xinjiang female hip shape characterization and prototype correction using XGBoost algorithm [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(07): 147-153.
[4] LOU Shaohong. Automatic generation of A-type skirt model based on AutoCAD parametric function [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(01): 131-138.
[5] XU Qian, CHEN Minzhi. Garment grain balance evaluation system based on deep learning [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(10): 191-195.
[6] . Design and application of three-dimensional parametric technology in construction of new forms of modern clothing [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018, 39(12): 118-123.
[7] . Improvement of electrospun membrane uniformity by non-circular gear traverse mechanism [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2015, 36(07): 116-120.
[8] Yi. Study on molding  types and development of horse-face skirt in modern times [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2014, 35(4): 110-0.
[9] . Relationship between shape of A-line skirt and properties of fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(6): 88-92.
[10] . Exploration of intelligent garment structure drawing method based on AutoCAD [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2013, 34(11): 158-0.
[11] LIU Chengxia;HU Qiong;SUN Limin. Correlation between sculpt of tiered skirts and fabric performances [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2010, 31(6): 114-119.
[12] LI Jun;KE Ying;LING Xiaoyan;WANG Yunyi;. Effects of grain directions of woven fabrics on skirt style [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2010, 31(10): 98-103.
[13] TANG Hong;ZHANG Weiyuan. Shape of semi-fitting skirt and its predictive model based on the properties of fabric [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2008, 29(6): 88-91.
[14] DING Xiqiang;LIU Guowei. Bias cut of dress models and its application examples [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2008, 29(5): 94-97.
[15] TANG Hong;ZHANG Weiyuan;QIN Zhilin. Group decision-making of subjective evaluation of the shape of semi-tight skirt and its intelligent prediction [J]. JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH, 2008, 29(4): 95-98.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号
Copyright 2021 © Editorial office of Journal of Textile Research
Supported by Beijing Magtech Co.Ltd