Journal of Textile Research ›› 2023, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (08): 96-102.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220700601

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Design and three-dimensional simulation of warp knitted spacer fabrics for shoes

YANG Meiling, JIANG Gaoming(), WANG Ting, LI Bingxian   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2022-07-04 Revised:2023-03-15 Online:2023-08-15 Published:2023-09-21

Abstract:

Objective In order to realize the efficient design and simple formation of warp knitted spacer shoe fabrics, the structure and forming principle of shoe fabrics are studied, the application benefit of spacer shoe fabrics is explored, and a design method of spacer shoe material is proposed. With the help of JavaScript and C # computer programming language, fast 3-D simulation of several types of spacer shoe fabrics is carried out with different mesh structures, enriching the choices of the mesh spacer shoe materials.

Method The functional structure of different areas of the shoe upper was divided, and the matrix model of process design was established, including the mathematical model of yarn padding number and threading cycle. 3-D loop models of 8-point unit loop, 2-point weft lining, 16-point double warp knit structure were constructed. The classification table of the retransmitted structures was listed by using the transverse displacement difference between the needle and the back of the needle. The stress analysis of the rerun loop and the spacer loop was carried out.

Results The vamp divided into different mesh areas according to functional requirements. Large mesh is used at the toe to improve breathability, small mesh is used at the toe cap and heel area, and tight structure was used at the hem to improve wear resistance (Fig. 1). The construction principle of the 3-D structure of the 4-comb spacer vamp fabric was analyzed. The re-woven weave can be applied to the top and bottom woven surfaces, and the mesh and pattern are only formed on the top or bottom (Fig. 2). The mathematical matrix was used to visually represent the padding number of the spacer shoe fabric and the warp cycle. The knitting action was expressed according to formula of the front and back needle transverse movement difference. Based on the loop control points, the basic 8-point single-needle loop, 16-point double-needle double-needle loop, and 2-point weft lining 3-D models were established, focusing on the hierarchical relationship between the double-needle loop and the two loop on the horizontal single-needle, and the classification table of the double-needle tissue was established according to the transverse movement of the needle back before the needle (Fig. 4, Tab. 1, Fig. 5). According to the formation mechanism of mesh in the spacer shoe material, stress analysis was carried out on both longitudinal lines, and the stress solution of the spacer wire loop in the 3-D space is also carried out (Fig. 6 and Fig. 7). According to different functional requirements, three types of spacer upper fabric processes with different mesh structures were designed, including raw material, knit structure, warp cycle, warp let-off and other parameters. 3-D simulation of three types of spacer mesh upper fabrics was set up using C# and JavaScript programming languages. The comparison between the physical image and the simulation image was shown (Fig. 8, Fig. 9 and Fig. 10).

Conclusion On the basis of summing up and analyzing the structural characteristics of the interval mesh shoe material, using the practical significance of the mesh structure in the shoe material fabric, the relevant technological mathematical model and geometric model are constructed, the mechanical analysis of the tension on the loop during the fabric knitting and the calculation of the corresponding offset are carried out, and the application of the warp weave structure is discussed, which provides a new idea for the design of the three-layer structure warp knitted shoe material. It provides reliable technical support for three-dimensional mesh simulation of Jacquard shoe fabric.

Key words: warp knitted shoes fabric, spacer fabric, loop model, loop force, 3-D simulation

CLC Number: 

  • TS186.3

Fig. 1

Functional region distribution of upper"

Fig. 2

Spacer shoe constructs"

Fig. 3

Basic loop model"

Fig. 4

Heavy trans loop model"

Tab. 1

Heavy transdermal fabric classification"

编号 延展线绘制条件
rt∈{1,2,…,j}
线圈形态
1 D(r)=2,且U(t)=0 右开口重编链
2 D(r)=2,且U(t)=2 左闭口重编链
3 D(r)=-2,且U(t)=0 左开口重编链
4 D(r)=-2,且U(t)=-2 右闭口重编链
5 D(r)=±2,且U(t)<-2或>2 变化重经

Fig. 5

Latitude lining model"

Fig. 6

Loop force analysis on heavy transdermal"

Fig. 7

Force analysis on spacer filament loop"

Tab. 2

Process parameters for heavy cross spaced shoe fabric"

梳栉 原料 垫纱数码 穿经 送经量/
(㎜·腊克-1)
GB1 涤纶
150 dtex
(48 f)
(2-1-1-1/3-4-4-4)
×4/(3-2-2-2/4-5-
5-5) ×4/3-2-2-2/
(5-6-6-6/4-3-3-3)/
(4-5-5-5/3-2-2 -2)×
4/(3-4-4-4/2-1-
1-1)×4/(2-3-3-3/
1-0-0-0)×4/3-4-
4-4//
二穿
二空
1 739
GB2 涤纶
150 dtex
(48 f)
(3-4-4-4/2-1-1-1)
×4/(4-5-5-5/3-2-
2-2)×4/4-5-5-5/
(4-3-3-3/5-6-6-6)/
(3-2-2-2/4-5-5-5)
×4/(2-1-1-1/3-4
-4-4)×4/(1-0-0-0/
2-3-3-3) ×4/2-1-
1-1//
一空二
穿一空
1 698
GB3 涤纶单丝
33 dtex
1-2-2-3/2-1-1-0// 满穿 7 900
GB4 涤纶单丝
33 dtex
1-2-2-3/2-1-1-0// 满穿 7 900
GB5 涤纶
76 dtex
(24 f)
0-0-2-4/4-4-2-0// 满穿 4 100

Tab. 3

Fabric process parameters of heavy cross"

梳栉 原料 垫纱数码 穿经 送经量/
(㎜·腊克-1)
GB1 涤纶
350 dtex(72 f)
(1-0-0-0/1-2-
2-2)×3/1-2-2-2/
(2-3-3-3/2-1-1-
1)×3/2-1-1-1//
一穿
一空
1 740
GB2 涤纶
350 dtex(72 f)
(2-3-3-3/2-
1-1-1)×3/2-1-1-
1/(1-0-0-0/1-2-
2-2)×3/1-2-2-2//
一穿
一空
1 740
GB3 涤纶单丝
283 dtex
(1-0-1-2)×6/1-
2-2-1/(2-3-2-1)
×6/2-1-1-2//
一穿
一空
6 500
GB4 涤纶单丝
283 dtex
(2-3-2-1)×6/
2-1-1-2/(1-0-1-
2)×6 /1-2-2-1//
一穿
一空
6 500
GB5 涤纶
350 dtex(72 f)
(1-0-0-0/1-2-2-2)
×3/1-2-2-2/
(2-3-3-3/2-1-
1-1)×3/2-1-1-1//
一穿
一空
1 740
GB6 涤纶
350 dtex(72 f)
(2-3-3-3/2-1-
1-1)×3/2-1-1-1/
(1-0-0-0/1-2-2-
2)×3/1-2-2-2//
一穿
一空
1 740

Tab. 4

Fabric process parameters"

梳栉 原料 垫纱数码 穿经 送经量/
(㎜·腊克-1)
GB1 涤纶
300 dtex(96 f)
(4-3-3-3/4-5-
5-5)×2/(1-0-0-0/
1-2-2-2)×2//
三穿
五空
1 960
GB2 涤纶
300 dtex(96 f)
(1-2-2-2/1-0-0-0)×
2/(4-5-5-5/4-3-
3-3)×2//
三穿
五空
1 960
GB3 涤纶
200 dtex(48 f)
1-0-0-0/
2-3-3-3//
一穿
一空
2 350
GB4 涤纶
200 dtex(48 f)
2-3-3-3/
1-0-0-0//
一穿
一空
2 350
GB5 涤纶单丝
30 dtex
1-0-0-1// 满穿 7 800
GB6 涤纶
140 dtex(36 f)
2-2-1-0/
0-0-1-2//
满穿 1 800
GB7 涤纶
140 dtex(36 f)
3-3-1-0/
0-0-2-3//
满穿 2 220

Fig. 8

Physical and simulation pictures of three types of shoe fabrics. (a) Heavy cross spaced shoe fabrics;(b) Double sided mesh spaced shoe fabrics;(c) Pattern spaced shoe fabrics"

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