Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (02): 64-68.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190305805

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Molding principle and weaving of three-dimensional geometric pleated fabric

SUN Ting, LÜ Zhining, LI Yanqing, ZHU Chengyan, TIAN Wei()   

  1. Key Laboratory for Advanced Textile Materials and Manufacturing Technology, Ministry of Education, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2019-03-19 Revised:2019-08-25 Online:2020-02-15 Published:2020-02-21
  • Contact: TIAN Wei E-mail:tianwei_zstu@126.com

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Abstract:

In order to widen the design idea of three-dimensional geometric pleated fabrics, and design pleated fabrics with three-dimensional geometric effects, the forming principle of the three-dimensional geometric pleated fabrics was studied and discussed. The design started from drawing folding lines in a two-dimensional fabric, forming the geometric pattern of a certain regularity, and the geometric patterns were classified into convex fold areas and concave fold areas by the fold line. Different weaves were used in different folded areas, and elastic and inelastic yarns were used for alternate weft insertion. This procedure was used as the base design for three-dimensional geometric fold fabrics. The results show that on the basis of the designed geometric pattern, different weft backed weaves can be used to construct different folded areas, and in a particular case, silk is employed as the warp, polyester and spandex-coated elastic yarn and non-elastic polyester are selected as the weft for weaving the fabric. Such woven fabrics demonstrate that obvious three-dimensional geometric shapes can be created.

Key words: fold line, three-dimensional geometric pleat pattern, pleated fabric, fabric design

CLC Number: 

  • TS105.1

Fig.1

Pleated fabric pattern without horizontal folding area"

Fig.2

Schematic diagram of fabric weft pleat formation"

Fig.3

Pleated fabric pattern with horizontal folding area"

Fig.4

Schematic diagram of fabric warp wrinkling"

Fig.5

Design of three-dimensional geometric pleated fabric pattern. (a) Pattern 1; (b) Pattern 2;(c) Pattern 3; (d) Pattern 4"

Fig.6

Pleated fabric tissue diagram without horizontal folding area. (a) Convex fold area weave; (b) Lower concave fold area weave; (c) Non-folded area weave"

Fig.7

Local magnification of fabric pattern. (a) Enlarged view 1; (b) Enlarged view 2"

Fig.8

Pleated fabric tissue diagram with a horizontal folding area. (a) Weave 1; (b) Weave 2; (c) Weave 3; (d) Weave 4"

Tab.1

Fabric specification parameters"

经纱原料 蚕丝,3.11 tex
纬纱原料 甲纬: 涤纶(FDY),8.33 tex(黑色)
乙纬:涤纶(DTY),16.67 tex+氨纶,2.22 tex(白色)
投纬比 甲纬∶乙纬=1∶1
经密 40 根/cm
纬密 60 根/cm
筘号 50
筘齿穿入数 4
纹针数 2 400
储纬器 2
织造机械 剑杆织机+2720 针电子提花机

Fig.9

Solid geometry pleated fabric physical map. (a) Fabric 1; (b) Pleated effect by fabric 1;(c) Fabric 2; (d) Pleated effect by fabric 2"

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