Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (07): 51-57.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180709108

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Structure design and separation technology of Raschel lace selvage

HE Kejie1, JIANG Gaoming2()   

  1. 1. School of Textiles and Clothing, Quanzhou Normal University, Quanzhou, Fujian 362000, China
    2. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-07-28 Revised:2019-04-02 Online:2019-07-15 Published:2019-07-25
  • Contact: JIANG Gaoming E-mail:jgm@jiangnan.edu.cn

Abstract:

In order to efficiently improve selvage design of Raschel lace and reduce defective rate when separating selvages, this paper conducted a further research on its selvage structure technique and separation approach based on primary knitting method. Firstly the selvages of Raschel laces and Jacquard laces were classified into straight, wavy and compound types according to their specific motographic characters. Structures used in these selvages are mainly teeth type, horizontal eyelash type, longitudinal eyelash type and borderline type. Design requirements and knitting method of these structures were further stated from aspects of Jacquard principle and multi-bar lapping algorithm. In order to properly separate these structural selvages, separation techniques were then analyzed based on selvage structure formation, threading cycle and yarn selection. Especially, more attention was paid on the raveling separation method which works well for multi-bar Raschel technology and Jacquard Raschel technology with both similar and opposite lappings.

Key words: warp knitting, Raschel lace, selvage structure, Jacquard, separation technique

CLC Number: 

  • TS184.3

Fig.1

Line selvage. (a) Multi-bar teeth; (b) Jacquard selvage without teeth"

Fig.2

Wavy selvage. (a) Teeth and borderline selvage; (b) Jacquard selvage; (c) Multi-bar weft eyelash; (d) Jacquard weft eyelash; (e) Multi-bar warp eyelash; (f) Jacquard warp eyelash"

Fig.3

Compound selvage. (a) Straight and wavy-borderline; (b) Straight and wavy-teeth"

Fig.4

Teeth selvage design. (a) Trough structure; (b) Modification of teeth length; (c) Reinforcement of teeth roots"

Fig.5

Weft eyelash design. (a) Multi-bar eyelash; (b) Jacquard eyelash"

Fig.6

Warp eyelash design. (a)Multi-bar eyelash; (b) Jacquard eyelash with parallel lapping; (c) Jacquard eyelash with opposite lapping"

Fig.7

Wavy-line selvage design"

Fig.8

Selvage design of full-set lace based on segments"

Fig.9

Draw-off separation method. (a) Separating straight pillars; (b) Separating hexnet wales"

Fig.10

Raveling separation method. (a) Threading design of pillar selvage; (b) Lapping design of pillar selvage"

Fig.11

Raveling separation of hexnet wales"

Tab.1

Separation technique when jacquard bars similarly lapping"

梳栉 垫纱数码 穿经循环 原料
JB1 1-0/1-2// 满穿A 44 dtex(12 f)锦纶
GB2 2-3/2-1/1-2/1-0/1-2/2-1// 1*1B5*1B 44 dtex锦纶
GB3 1-0/1-2/2-1/2-3/2-1/1-2// 1*1C3*1C1*1C 44 dtex锦纶
GB4 3-3/1-1/2-2/0-0/2-2/1-1// 5D1*2D 44 dtex氨纶
GB5 1-1/0-0// 4E1*3E 308 dtex氨纶

Fig.14

Separation of wavy selvage by cutting. (a)Teeth selvage; (b)Borderline selvage; (c)Eyelash selvage"

Fig.12

Raveling separation of Jacquard Raschel lace with parallel lappings. (a) Jacquard bitmap; (b) Lapping diagram"

Tab.2

Separation technique when jacquard bars oppositely lapping"

梳栉 垫纱数码 穿经循环 原料
JB1.1 1-0/1-2// 满穿A 44 dtex(12 f)锦纶
JB1.2 1-2/1-0// 满穿A 44 dtex(12 f)锦纶
GB2 1-0/0-1// 8B 156 dtex高弹锦纶
GB3 2-2/1-1/2-2/0-0/1-1/0-0// 3*2C3* 44 dtex氨纶
GB4 1-1/0-0// (1*1E)×4 110 dtex氨纶
GB5 0-0/1-1// (1E1*)×4 110 dtex氨纶

Fig.13

Raveling separation of Jacquard Raschel lace with opposite lappings. (a) Jacquard bitmap; (b) Lapping diagram"

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