Journal of Textile Research ›› 2023, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (05): 125-131.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211202701

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Preparation and performance evaluation of weft knitted ironing-free shirt fabric based on cotton/shape memory spandex

WANG Yaqian1, WAN Ailan1(), ZENG Deng2   

  1. 1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. Lianyungang LDZ New Ao Shen Spandex Co., Ltd., Lianyungang, Jiangsu 222069, China
  • Received:2021-12-13 Revised:2022-04-20 Online:2023-05-15 Published:2023-06-09

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Abstract:

Objective Although the existing cotton shirt fabrics offer good comfort and breathability, it is difficult to meet the dimensional stability requirements for shirt end-use. It is often necessary to finish the cotton shirt fabrics for shape retention without the need of ironing. Such finishing technique often uses chemical reagents for treatment, which will not only affect the comfort and softness of cotton shirt fabrics, but also remain some chemical substances in the fabric. This paper aims to improve the wrinkle recovery performance of weft knitted cotton shirt fabrics by incorporating shape memory spandes fibers.

Method In order to improve the wrinkle recovery performance of weft knitted cotton shirt fabrics, plain, single bead and double bead fabrics were knitted by using a cotton yarn incorporating temperature-sensitive shape memory spandex. Three different predetermined temperature treatments were carried out on the fabrics. The transition temperature and shape memory performance of shape memory spandex yarn were characterized, and the wrinkle recovery, shape memory performance, elastic recovery performance and shrinkage performance of the fabrics were evaluated.

Results The results showed that when the temperature reached 32.45 ℃ and above, the shape memory function of shape memory spandex could be triggered by the body temperature. The deformation fixation rate of shape memory spandex was 93.5%, and the shape recovery rate was 91.0%, indicating good shape memory performance of the spandex fiber and the effectiveness of the shape memory spandex in improving wrinkle recovery angle and elastic recovery rate of weft knitted shirt fabric. When the content of shape memory spandex was 8.4%, the wrinkle recovery angle and elastic recovery rate were increased by 20.5% and 14.35%, respectively. The properties of fabrics with different pre-determined temperatures were also found different, and the fabrics at pre-determined temperature of 195 ℃ demonstrated the best dimensional stability.

Conclusion The human body temperature is used as the triggering temperature of shape memory spandex to trigger the characteristics of shape memory spandex, so that the weft knitted cotton shirt can be automatically smoothed after wearing, achieving the iron-free effect and providing a reference for the development of shirt fabric.

Key words: shape memory spandex, cotton yarn, weft knitted shirt fabric, thermosensitive, transition temperature, wrinkle recovery, elastic recovery

CLC Number: 

  • TS182.5

Tab.1

Materials and gray fabric specifications of cotton/shape memory spandex weft knitted fabric"

组织
结构		 原料A与
B的比例		 横密/(纵行·
(5 cm)-1)		 纵密/(横列·
(5 cm)-1)		 面密度/
(g?m-2)
平纹 8.4：91.6 80 180 158
单珠地 4.3：95.7 70 170 142
双珠地 3.1：96.9 67.5 195 166

Tab.2

Finishing process parameters of cotton/shape memory spandex weft knitted fabric"

组织结构 试样编号 预定形温度/℃ 预定形机速/(m·min-1)
平纹 1# 175 28
2# 185 28
3# 195 28
单珠地 4# 175 25
5# 185 25
6# 195 25
双珠地 7# 175 25
8# 185 25
9# 195 25

Tab.3

Finished product parameters of cotton/shape memory spandex weft knitted fabric"

试样编号 横密/(纵行·
(5 cm)-1)		 纵密/(横列·
(5 cm)-1)		 面密度/
(g?m-2)
1# 90 150 176
2# 87.5 150 173
3# 90 152.5 177
4# 77.5 147.5 146
5# 77.5 150 148
6# 80 150 150
7# 67.5 175 165
8# 65 175 166
9# 65 177.5 167

Fig.1

Size and shape of samples for wrinkle recovery test"

Fig.2

Size and shape of samples for shrinkage rate test"

Fig.3

Differential scanning calorimetric curve of shape memory spandex"

Fig.4

Wrinkle recovery angle results of cotton/shape memory spandex fabric"

Tab.4

Shape memory properties results of cotton/shape memory spandex fabric"

试样
编号		 纵向 横向
形变
固定率/%		 形状
回复率/%		 形变
固定率/%		 形状
回复率/%
1# 63.28 70.52 62.84 71.94
2# 65.87 67.38 62.59 68.89
3# 68.56 68.02 65.18 68.23
4# 70.63 63.45 69.03 65.56
5# 71.41 63.03 70.74 64.57
6# 72.03 60.57 71.38 62.46
7# 72.38 57.34 71.56 58.34
8# 73.24 56.01 72.23 57.47
9# 74.54 54.56 73.91 55.89

Fig.5

Elastic recovery rate results of cotton/shape memory spandex fabric. (a) Longitudinal; (b) Transverse"

Tab.5

Shrinkage rate results of cotton/shape memory spandex fabric"

试样
编号		 缩水率(21 ℃)/% 缩水率(37 ℃)/%
纵向 横向 纵向 横向
1# -3.6 -5.8 -4.5 -6.1
2# -3.3 -4.7 -4.2 -5.8
3# -2.7 -3.6 -3.8 -5.2
4# -4.3 2.2 -5.1 1.8
5# -4.5 1.3 -5.3 1.1
6# -5.9 0.9 -6.6 0.6
7# -4.2 2.0 -5.5 1.7
8# -5.1 1.6 -6.3 1.3
9# -5.8 1.0 -6.5 0.5
10# -2.0 -4.7 -2.1 -4.6
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