Journal of Textile Research ›› 2026, Vol. 47 ›› Issue (02): 230-238.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20251002601

• Dyeing and Finishing Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Effect of steam washing on cotton fabric hand and its underlying mechanism

LIU Jimin1,2, REN Yajie1,2, WANG Zhiqiang1,2, CHEN He3, WANG Huaifang1,2()   

  1. 1 College of Textiles & Clothing, Qingdao University, Qingdao, Shandong 266071, China
    2 Institute of Functional Textiles and Advanced Materials, Qingdao University, Qingdao, Shandong 266071, China
    3 Hisense Refrigerator Co., Ltd., Qingdao, Shandong 266100, China
  • Received:2025-10-14 Revised:2025-11-17 Online:2026-02-15 Published:2026-04-24
  • Contact: WANG Huaifang E-mail:hfwang1980@163.com

Abstract:

Objective Conventional laundering consumes large amounts of water and chemicals, and the intense mechanical action frequently damages cotton garments. "Steam-wash" programmes that apply hot, moist air with almost no water have been introduced in domestic washers to remove odours and creases, yet their influence on fabric hand is still poorly quantified. This work therefore sets out to clarify how steam care changes the tactile properties of cotton textiles and to elucidate the underlying physicochemical mechanism. This study provides a theoretical basis for the development of intelligent steam-ironing processes.

Method Pre-wash plain-weave cotton and terry towel fabrics were divided into three groups to receive (i) steam-washing, (ii) conventional 40 ℃ wash with softener, and (iii) normal washing as control. Fabric hand values (stiffness, softness, smoothness) were assessed with a PhabrOmeter®, and whiteness was monitored for 30 d. To decouple moisture and thermal effects, pre-dried cotton was conditioned under varying temperature/humidity regimes. Moisture content and absorption kinetics were measured gravimetrically. Bending rigidity was determined immediately post-conditioning according to GB/T 18318.1. XRD, and FT-IR analyses tracked supramolecular structural changes, with crystallinity index (Crl) and hydrogen-bonding quantified by curve fitting.

Results It was found that steam wash reduced the stiffness of both plain-weave cotton and cotton terry towel fabrics by approximately 2% and 6%, while softness was increased by 0.4 and 3.0 units, respectively. The improvement in fabric hand due to steam wash was comparable to that obtained using liquid softener. Moreover, steam wash avoided the 2-unit whiteness loss observed with softener after 30 days of storage, demonstrating its significant advantage in preserving fabric whiteness. The stiffness of fabrics is influenced by their moisture content, which is primarily controlled by the temperature and humidity of the surrounding environment. When the ambient temperature was constant, the moisture content of the fabric demonstrated increases with the rising relative humidity (RH). Conversely, at a constant humidity level, the moisture content showed decreases as the temperature increased. Raising RH from 25% to 90% at 25 ℃ increased equilibrium moisture content from 2.3% to 8.6% and lowered crystallinity index from 80.6% to 60.5%, while the (002) crystal thickness shrank from 5.57 nm to 3.41 nm. Conversely, increasing temperature at 90% RH reduced moisture content (MC) and made the fabrics stiffer and more crystalline. When the RH was raised from 25% to 90% at 25 ℃, the equilibrium moisture content increased from 2.3% to 8.6%, the crystallinity index decreased from 80.6% to 60.5%, and the (002) crystal thickness decreased from 5.57 nm to 3.41 nm. Conversely, when the temperature was increased from 25 ℃ to 85 ℃ at 90% RH, the equilibrium moisture content (MC) decreased from 8.6% to 4.6%, and the crystallinity index increased from 60.5% to 79%. The bending rigidity of the fabric increased with the moisture content (MC) until reaching a critical point of 4.6% (w/w), beyond which it decreased sharply, and this turning point coincided with the minima in fabric crystallinity index and hydrogen bond density. FT-IR showed that the intermolecular O(6)H…O(3') bond fraction dropped by 25% as moisture content reached 8.6%, indicating water-assisted disruption of the inter-chain network. The kinetic data further showed that cotton reaches moisture equilibrium within 10 min under typical steam-cycle conditions, confirming that the observed structural changes are realistically accessible during a 20-30 min steam refresh.

Conclusion Steam wash consistently improves cotton fabric hand by differentially affecting the fiber's supramolecular structure depending on the moisture uptake level. When the moisture content exceeds a critical threshold of approximately 4.6%, water molecules penetrate the sub-crystalline regions, disrupt intermolecular hydrogen bonds, and reduce crystallite size, thereby lowering bending rigidity. This process is purely physical as no new functional groups are formed, thus preserving whiteness and fiber integrity. This study confirms that steam washing provides softness and comfort comparable to that achieved by using chemical softeners, but without additive use or color damage. It defines the target moisture content window (6%-9%) for appliance developers to optimize garment hand feel.

Key words: steam washing, hygrothermal treatment, cotton fabric, handle, softness, moisture content, crystallinity, hydrogen bond

CLC Number: 

  • TS116

Tab.1

Temperature and humidity condition parameter"

编号 温度/℃ 湿度/%
TR1 25 25
TR2 25 45
TR3 25 65
TR4 25 90
T1R 25 90
T2R 45 90
T3R 65 90
T4R 85 90

Fig.1

Flexural rigidity apparatus"

Fig.2

Changes in fabric hand before and after steam washing care and fabric softener care for different fabrics. (a) Cotton Fabric; (b) Pure cotton towel"

Tab.2

Whiteness values of cotton fabric and pure cotton towel after storage following different care treatments"

试样
编号
护理方式 不同放置时间下的白度值/%
0 d 5 d 10 d 15 d 30 d
1# 未护理 83.2 83.2 83.2 83.2 83.2
2# 柔顺剂护理 83.2 83.2 83.1 83.2 83.1
3# 蒸汽洗护理 83.2 83.1 83.2 83.2 83.2
4# 未护理 81.1 81.1 81.1 81.1 81.1
5# 柔顺剂护理 81.4 81.3 81.0 81.0 79.4
6# 蒸汽洗护理 81.4 81.3 81.2 81.2 81.3

Tab.3

Moisture half-absorption time of cotton fabric under different temperature and humidity conditions"

样品
编号
TR1 TR2 TR3 TR4 T1R T2R T3R T4R
t1/2/s 122.22 136.58 138.97 568.78 563.72 168.81 73.54 38.48

Fig.3

Changes in fabric bending rigidity under different temperature and humidity treatments. (a) Effect of temperature; (b) Effect of humidity"

Fig.4

XRD patterns of cotton fibers after different temperature and humidity treatments. (a) Effect of temperature; (b) Effect of humidity"

Fig.5

Peak deconvolution fitting of XRD patterns for cotton fabric treated at 85 ℃ and RH90%"

Tab.4

Peak deconvolution results of XRD curves for cotton fabric treated under different Effect of temperature treatment conditions"

样品 含湿
率/%
晶面 衍射角
2θ/(°)
D/nm 结晶指
数/%
OD - 101 14.5 5.84 77.4
10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 16.5 7.60
002 22.5 5.57
T4R 4.6 101 15.0 5.84 79.0
10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 16.5 7.61
002 22.8 6.50
T2R 6.9 101 15.0 6.82 75.8
10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 16.6 3.70
002 23.0 5.01
T1R 8.6 101 15.0 9.52 60.5
10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 17.0 1.37
002 23.5 3.41

Tab.5

Peak deconvolution results of XRD curves for cotton fabric treated under different humidity"

样品 含湿
率/%
晶面 衍射角
2θ/(°)
D/nm 结晶指
数/%
101 14.9 5.84
OD - 10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 16.5 7.60 77.4
002 22.7 5.57
101 15.6 5.37
TR2 3.6 10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 17.0 4.8 80.6
002 23.5 6.43
101 15.5 5.43
TR3 5.4 10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 17.1 7.51 75.8
002 23.3 5.34
101 15.0 9.52
TR4 8.6 10$\stackrel{-}{1}$ 17.0 1.37 60.5
002 23.5 3.41

Fig.6

FT-IR spectra of cotton fibers treated under different temperature and humidity conditions. (a) Effect of temperature; (b) Effect of humidity"

Fig.7

Hydrogen bond fitting diagrams under different treatment conditions. (a) Effect of temperature; (b) Effect of humidity"

Tab.6

Fitting results of hydrogen bond regions in FT-IR spectra for cotton fabric treated under different temperature"

样品 含湿率/% 氢键 波数/cm-1 峰面积占比/%
OD - O(2) H…O(6) 3 451.8 20.5
O(3) H…O(5) 3 332.2 47.6
O(6) H…O(3') 3 208.9 31.9
T4R 4.6 O(2) H…O(6) 3 450.2 20.8
O(3) H…O(5) 3 324.9 46.3
O(6) H…O(3') 3 200.7 32.9
T2R 6.9 O(2) H…O(6) 3 454.5 24.1
O(3) H…O(5) 3 331.8 47.2
O(6) H…O(3') 3 210.8 28.7
T1R 8.6 O(2) H…O(6) 3 453.9 23.4
O(3) H…O(5) 3 314.9 52.7
O(6) H…O(3') 3 176.9 23.9

Tab.7

Fitting results of hydrogen bond regions in FT-IR spectra for cotton fabric treated under different humidity"

样品 含湿率/% 氢键 波数/cm-1 峰面积占比/%
OD - O(2) H…O(6) 3 451.8 20.5
O(3) H…O(5) 3 332.2 47.6
O(6) H…O(3') 3 208.9 31.9
TR2 3.6 O(2) H…O(6) 3 450.1 21.2
O(3) H…O(5) 3 327.9 46.6
O(6) H…O(3') 3 208.7 32.1
TR3 5.4 O(2) H…O(6) 3 451.2 21.7
O(3) H…O(5) 3 336.3 47.5
O(6) H…O(3') 3 216.5 30.7
TR4 8.6 O(2) H…O(6) 3 453.9 23.4
O(3) H…O(5) 3 314.9 52.7
O(6) H…O(3') 3 176.9 23.9
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