纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (01): 133-137.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200505706

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

基于数字化三维人体模型的旗袍定制设计

冀艳波(), 王玲丽, 刘凯旋   

  1. 西安工程大学 服装与艺术设计学院, 陕西 西安 710048
  • 收稿日期:2020-05-28 修回日期:2020-10-15 出版日期:2021-01-15 发布日期:2021-01-21
  • 作者简介:冀艳波(1970—),男,副教授,硕士。研究方向为数字化服装技术以及服装结构设计。E-mail: 190696850@qq.com
  • 基金资助:
    陕西省自然科学基金项目(2019JQ-848);陕西省社科基金项目(2018K32)

Custom design of cheongsam based on digital 3-D human model

JI Yanbo(), WANG Lingli, LIU Kaixuan   

  1. Apparel & Art Design College, Xi'an Polytechnic University, Xi'an, Shaanxi 710048, China
  • Received:2020-05-28 Revised:2020-10-15 Online:2021-01-15 Published:2021-01-21

摘要:

为更好地实现数字化定制设计在服装行业中的应用,解决定制类贴体服装传统样板生成方法所存在的合体性差、设计制板周期长等问题,提出一种基于三维可视化技术与逆向工程技术进行旗袍定制设计方法。首先,应用三维虚拟设计平台,将三维人体扫描获取的人体23个特征部位数据进行人体模型参数化设置;然后,通过在人体模型的4个关键部位加入松量,构建出“带贴体松量”的特征人体模型,并在此人体模型上进行三维旗袍造型及内部分割设计;最后,将三维旗袍曲面自动展平得到二维样板,并将二维样板制成成衣进行主观评价。评价结果表明,成衣主观测评指数达到4.0分以上,该方法可有效进行贴体服装设计及样板自动生成。

关键词: 三维可视化设计, 逆向工程技术, 曲面展平, 样板生成, 旗袍设计, 服装定制

Abstract:

This reported research worked on the problems of poor fitting and long design and pattern making cycle in the traditional pattern generation process for custom-made body-fitting garment. A method of custom-design of cheongsam based on a three-dimensional visualization technology and reverse engineering technology was adopted. The 3-D virtual design platform was used for the parameterization setting of the human body model supported by the 3-D scanned data of 23 characteristic parts of the human body. Then, a characteristic human body model of "body-fitting tolerance" was constructed by adding the tolerance of the four key parts of the human body model, and the 3-D cheongsam style and internal segmentation design were carried out on it. Finally, the 3-D cheongsam surface was automatically flattened to obtain the 2-D pattern, and the garment made of the 2-D pattern is subjectively evaluated. The results show that the subjective evaluation index of the garment reached more than 4.0 points, and this method can be used to carry out effectively the design of body-fitting garment and the automatic generation of pattern.

Key words: 3-D visual design, reverse engineering, surface flattening, template generation, cheongsam design, clothing customization

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.26

表1

人体扫描数据表"

序号 部位 测量数据/
cm
序号 部位 测量数据/
cm
1 身高 165.20 13 肩宽 38.00
2 腰高 102.60 14 手臂长 53.60
3 颈椎点高 138.90 15 上臂长 30.70
4 臀突点高 82.80 16 头围 50.14
5 膝盖高 44.20 17 颈中围 34.42
6 背长 36.30 18 上胸宽 35.50
7 背宽 31.37 19 手腕围 14.35
8 胸围 84.84 20 大腿围 46.90
9 腰围 61.70 21 膝盖围 32.20
10 臀围 88.09 22 小腿围 31.80
11 上臂围 22.31 23 脚踝围 19.30
12 肘围 19.90

表2

机织物服装松量表"

合体程
度/部位
围度/cm
胸围松量 腰围松量 臀围松量
贴体 0~4.0 0~4.0 0~4.0
合体 4.0~10.0 4.0~8.0 4.0~8.0
半合体 10.0~14.0 8.0~12.0 8.0~12.0

表3

特征人体模型与松量人体模型尺寸对比表"

模型类别 胸围 腰围 臀围 上臂围
特征人体模型 84.84 61.70 88.09 22.31
松量人体模型 88.84 65.70 92.09 25.31

图1

人体模型"

图2

旗袍曲面拟合过程"

图3

分割线绘制过程"

图4

曲面展平"

图5

旗袍样板"

图6

虚拟试穿"

图7

虚拟压力检测"

图8

虚拟设计效果"

图9

真人试穿"

表4

样衣测评指数表"

测评项目 领子 胸部 肩部 袖窿 腰部 臀部
评分 4.9 4.8 4.5 4.2 4.8 4.6
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