纺织学报 ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (04): 10-14.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210303906

• 纤维材料 • 上一篇    下一篇

云南野生火草纤维及其绒网的结构与性能

俞琰1, 王西朝1, 张瑞云1,2(), 李蓉丽3, 程隆棣1,2   

  1. 1.东华大学 纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 201620
    2.东华大学 纺织科创中心, 上海 201620
    3.昆明玖雍民族文化创意产品有限公司, 云南 昆明 650000
  • 收稿日期:2021-03-10 修回日期:2021-09-28 出版日期:2022-04-15 发布日期:2022-04-20
  • 通讯作者: 张瑞云
  • 作者简介:俞琰(1990—),男,博士生。主要研究方向为纺织新材料及加工技术。
  • 基金资助:
    国家重点研发计划资助项目(2017YFB0309100)

Structure and performances of Yunnan wild fireweed fiber and its fibrous network

YU Yan1, WANG Xichao1, ZHANG Ruiyun1,2(), LI Rongli3, CHENG Longdi1,2   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Textile Science & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
    2. Innovation Center for Textile Science and Technology, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
    3. Kunming Jiuyong Ethnic Culture Creative Products Co., Ltd., Kunming, Yunnan 650000, China
  • Received:2021-03-10 Revised:2021-09-28 Published:2022-04-15 Online:2022-04-20
  • Contact: ZHANG Ruiyun

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摘要：

火草是少数民族非物质文化遗产火草纺织技艺中的古老纺织原料,为了对火草纤维进行系统研究并实现在纺织领域的推广应用,选取云南野生火草,通过手工方式从其叶片背部剥离火草纤维绒网。通过实验表征了火草纤维及其绒网的基本结构和性能。结果表明:火草纤维直径在1.05~5.76 μm之间,为超细纤维,其纵向形态为特征性的带状转曲,表面有褶纹沟槽,横截面呈不规则腰圆形带中腔结构;纤维主要成分为纤维素和半纤维素,结晶度为55.52%,具有较好的耐热性,热分解温度为240 ℃;纤维中脂蜡质含量为6%,与水的接触角约为129.5°,有较好的疏水能力,回潮率为11.69%,含水率为10.47%,与棉纤维相比较高;火草纤维常温下耐酸碱性好,纤维水萃取液的pH值为7.23,对人体皮肤友好。

关键词: 火草纤维, 超细纤维, 钩苞大丁草, 火草纤维绒网, 结构表征, 保暖材料

Abstract:

The ancient fireweed textile technology for obtaining textile fibers is a cultural heritage of ethnic minorities. In order to study systematically the fiber and realize its popularization and application in the textile field, the basic structure and properties of wild fireweed fiber of Yunnan area and its network stripped from the back by hand were characterized by experiments. The studies show that the diameter of fireweed fiber is 1.05-5.76 μm, and it belongs to microfiber category. The longitudinal morphology of the fiber is characteristic of banded curvature, with folds and grooves on the surface, and the cross section is irregular elliptic with a cavity structure. The main components of the fiber are cellulose and hemicellulose with crystallinity of 55.52%. The thermal decomposition temperature of the fiber is 240 ℃, which has a good heat resistance. The content of lipid and wax is 6%, and the wetting angle with water is about 129.5° with good water-repellent ability. The moisture regain rate of the fiber is 11.69% and the moisture containing capacity is 10.47%, which is higher than that of cotton. Fireweed fiber has good resistance to acid and alkali at normal temperature, and the pH value of fiber water extract is 7.23, which is friendly to human skin.

Key words: fireweed fiber, microfiber, Gerbera delavayi, fireweed fibrous network, structural characterization, thermal material

中图分类号: 

  • TS102.2

图1

火草叶片背部及纤维绒网"

图2

火草纤维绒网的SEM照片(×200)"

图3

火草纤维纵向形态"

图4

火草纤维横截面电镜照片(×5 000)"

表1

火草纤维与棉纤维形态对比"

纤维 直径/μm 长度/mm 转曲
火草纤维 1.05~5.76 2~6 有
成熟细绒棉 18~25 23~33 有

图5

火草纤维绒网的红外光谱图"

图6

火草纤维绒网的X射线衍射图"

图7

火草纤维绒网的TG曲线"

图8

火草纤维绒网与水的接触角"

表2

不同溶解时间下火草纤维的耐酸碱性及浸润性"

试剂名称 耐酸碱性 浸润性
10 min 20 min 30 min
火草 棉 火草 棉 火草 棉
98%硫酸 S S S S S S
75%硫酸 I P P S P S
60%硫酸 I I I I I I 不浸润
80%甲酸 I I I I I I 浸润并快速扩散
40%盐酸 I I I I I I 不浸润
冰乙酸 I I I I I I 浸润并快速扩散
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