全成形针织服装三维款式向二维样板转化方法

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210808508

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为进一步了解全成形针织服装的编织原理,开发出更多不同造型的服装,从理论依据、数学模型以及转化流程3个方面探究了全成形针织服装三维款式向二维样板转化原理;从双层结构、三层结构以及四层结构3个方面研究了不同类型服装的三维款式向二维样板转化方法;以5种典型款式为例,运用上述方法在SDS-ONE APEX3系统和四针床电脑横机中进行了二维样板设计与编织实践。结果表明:三维款式向二维样板转化时,双层结构服装二维样板前后片需根据三维款式前后片是否等宽从左右侧缝或前后中心线处确定;三层结构服装二维样板需根据三维款式有无袖从后中袖窿分割或门襟侧缝处展开后确定;四层结构服装里外层衔接位置应位于领部、腰部等特殊部位。

关键词: 全成形针织服装, 三维款式, 二维样板, 转化方法, 编织工艺

Abstract:

In order to further understand the knitting principle of whole garments and develop more styles with different shapes, this work investigated the conversion principles from 3-D style to 2-D patterns considering the theory, mathematical model and conversion process. Conversion methods of different types of garments from 3-D style to 2-D patterns were considered based on double-layer structure, three-layer structure and four-layer structure. Taking five typical styles as examples, the 2-D pattern design and knitting practice were carried out using the SDS-ONE APEX3 system and a four-bed computerized flat knitting machine. The results show that the front and back pieces of the 2-D patterns of the garments with double-layer structure are determined by the side seam and the centerline respectively depending on whether the width of the front and back pieces of 3-D style are equal or not. The 2-D pattern of the garments with three-layer structure are to be determined by dividing in the back centerline or armholes, or unfolding on the side seam and placket based on whether the 3-D style contains sleeves. The connecting position of the inner and outer layers of the garments with the four-layer structure should be located at the collar, waist and other special parts.

Key words: fully formed garment, 3-D style, 2-D pattern, conversion method, knitting process

中图分类号:

TS106.6

路丽莎, 蒋高明. 全成形针织服装三维款式向二维样板转化方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2022, 43(10): 133-140.

LU Lisha, JIANG Gaoming. Methods for converting 3-D styles to 2-D patterns for fully formed garments[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2022, 43(10): 133-140.

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参数	符号	三维款式尺寸/cm		二维样板尺寸/线圈数
参数	符号	前片	后片	前片	后片
衣长	L	L	L	L × c/10	L × c/10
胸围	B	B/2	B/2	B/2 × w/10	B/2 × w/10
腰围	W	W/2	W/2	W/2 × w/10	W/2 × w/10
下摆	H	H/2	H/2	H/2 × w/10	H/2 × w/10
袖长	S	S	S	S × c/10	S × c/10
袖口围	C	C/2	C/2	C/2 × w/10	C/2 × w/10
后领宽	N	—	N	—	N × w/10
前领深	D	D	—	D × c/10	—

参数	符号	三维款式尺寸/ cm		二维样板尺寸/ 线圈数
参数	符号	前片	后片	前片	后片
衣长	L	L	L	(2 × S + B/2)× c/10	(2 × S + B/2)× c/10
胸围	B	B/2	B/2	B/2 × c/10	B/2 × c/10
腰围	W	W/2	W/2	W/2 × c/10	W/2 × c/10
下摆	H	H/2	H/2	H/2 × c/10	H/2 × c/10
袖长	S	S	S	S × c/10	S × c/10
袖口围	C	C/2	C/2	C/2 × w/10	C/2 × w/10
后领宽	N	—	N	—	N × c/10
前领深	D	D	—	D × w/10	—

参数	符号	三维款式尺寸/ cm		二维样板尺寸/ 线圈数
参数	符号	前片	后片	前片	后片
衣长	L	L	L	L × c/10	L × c/10
胸围	B	B/2+x	B/2	(B+x)/2 × w/10	(B+x)/2 × w/10
腰围	W	W/2+x	W/2	(W+x)/2 × w/10	(W+x)/2 × w/10
下摆	H	H/2+x	H/2	(H+x)/2 × w/10	(H+x)/2 × w/10
袖窿深	A	A	A	A × c/10	A × c/10
领高	N	N	N	N × c/10	N × c/10

参数	符号	三维款式尺寸/cm		二维样板尺寸/线圈数
		前片	后片	方法一	方法二/方法三
		前片	后片	方法一	前片		后片
衣长	L	L	L	L × c/10		L × c/10		L × c/10
胸围	B	B/2	B/2	(B + 2 ×C)× w/10		(B/2+2 ×C)× w/10		B/2 × w/10
腰围	W	W/2	W/2	(W +2 × C)× w/10		(W/2+2 × C)× w/10		W/2 × w/10
下摆	H	H/2	H/2	H × w/10		H/2 × w/10		H/2 × w/10
翻领宽	C	C	—	—		—		—

参数	符号	三维款式尺寸/cm		二维样板尺寸/线圈数
参数	符号	前片	后片	前片	后片
衣长	L	L	L	L×c/10	L×c/10
胸围	B	B/2	B/2	(B/2+ C) × w/10	B/2 × w/10
腰围	W	W/2	W/2	(W/2+ C) × w/10	W/2 × w/10
下摆	H	H/2	H/2	(H/2+ C) × w/10	H/2 × w/10
门襟宽	C	C	C	-	-
袖长	S	S	S	S × c/10	S × c/10
袖口围	T	T	T	T/2 × w/10	T/2 × w/10
后领宽	N		N×w/10		N× w/10
前领深	D	D	D ×c/10	D	D × c/10