纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (03): 149-154.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200702107

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

全成形双层结构针织服装工艺模型研究与应用

詹必钦, 丛洪莲(), 吴光军   

  1. 江南大学 教育部针织技术工程研究中心, 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2020-07-08 修回日期:2020-12-10 出版日期:2021-03-15 发布日期:2021-03-17
  • 通讯作者: 丛洪莲
  • 作者简介:詹必钦(1994—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为全成形针织服装设计与开发。
  • 基金资助:
    中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP52013B);国家自然科学基金项目(61902150)

Research and application of process modeling of single-piece double-layer knitted garments

ZHAN Biqin, CONG Honglian(), WU Guangjun   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122,China
  • Received:2020-07-08 Revised:2020-12-10 Online:2021-03-15 Published:2021-03-17
  • Contact: CONG Honglian

摘要:

为深入探讨全成形针织服装复杂款式结构,丰富全成形针织服装款式样板,研究了四针床全成形双层结构针织服装设计方法及编织工艺。在四针床全成形单层结构服装研究基础上,通过分析体型特征、人体运动松量和服装原型特征,设计出双层结构服装原型纸样。针对此纸样设计出一款典型双层结构上装,对其版型设计、工艺方法和成形原理进行分析。结果表明:从单层结构服装到双层结构服装转化过程中,里外层结构通过一体成形编织工艺形成款式造型;连接处模型有O型、X型、H型、XO型4种方式保持衣身平衡,以确保里外层连接处尺寸差的精确调整;细部模型通过集圈编织、局部编织形成;根据编织工艺参数及里外层服装在结构上的差异可得到适合人体曲线的全成形双层结构服装。

关键词: 针织, 全成形, 针织服装, 四针床, 双层结构, 编织工艺

Abstract:

In order to explore deeply the complex style structure of single-piece knitted garments and to enrich the models of single-piece knitted garments, the design method and knitting process of four-needle bed single-piece double-layer knitted garments were studied. On the basis of the research of the four-needle bed single-piece single-layer clothing, the prototype pattern of the double-layer clothing structure is designed through analyzing the characteristics of the human body shape, the looseness of the human body and the characteristics of the clothing prototype. A typical double-layer structure upper garment was designed based on the paper pattern, and its layout design, process method and forming principle were analyzed. The results show that in the process of transforming from a single-layer garment to a double-layer garment, the inner and outer layers are formed through an integrated knitting process to form a style model; the connection model has four ways to maintain the body balance: O, X, H and XO, and to ensures the precise adjustment of the size difference between the inner and outer layers; and the detailed model is formed by tuck knitting and partial knitting. According to the knitting process parameters and the structural difference between the inner and outer layers of clothing, a single-piece double-layer clothing suitable for the body curve is created.

Key words: knitting, single-piece garment, knitted garment, four-needle bed, double-layer structure, knitting process

中图分类号: 

  • TS181.8

图1

双层结构服装款式"

图2

全成形双层结构针织服装衣身示意图 N1,N1',L1,L1'分别表示里外层加松量后前后上胸宽;N2,N2',L2,L2'分别表示里外层加松量后胸围;N3,N3',L3,L3'分别表示里外层加松量后胸围;LCL,LCL'分别表示里外层衣长;f为肩斜角; 表示里外层样板轮廓; 表示外层展开时样板轮廓; 表示外层重叠时样板轮廓。 "

图3

双层结构上装款式图 1为吊带外层; 2为长袖套衫里层; 3和4为下摆及袖口罗纹编织区域; 5为口袋; 6为袖肘局部拼贴处。"

图4

外层服装单筒形结构模型 1为吊带编制区域; 2为大身下摆部分。"

图5

下摆2+2罗纹组织编织工艺 新线圈; 旧线圈; 翻针。 "

图6

肩部局部编织工艺"

图7

里层服装多筒形结构模型"

图8

明收针编织工艺"

图9

双层结构连接部位 ab段表示连接处长度;a'、b'表示端点变化位置;w表示外层连接处长度。"

图10

其他双层结构连接模型"

图11

口袋及袖肘边缘集圈编织工艺"

图12

罩衫+吊带双层结构组合工艺模型"

图13

裙裤装双层结构组合工艺模型"

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