关键词: 数码提花, 双经, 双层织物, 单纬渐变显色, 结构成形, 结构显色, 织物设计

Abstract:

Objective In order to realize the color gradation effect for face layer through the interlacement of single warp and single weft in jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts, single-weft color gradation jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts were proposed based on the construction principle of double-ply weave, including 8 structural series. This study serves as a significant part of the construction and color rendering characteristics analysis of jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts and provides methods to jacquard fabric development.

Method First, two groups of warps and four groups of wefts were placed for the construction of jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts. Then, face weave-database was built based on shaded weave construction principle. What's more, warp and weft intersection diagram for back layer construction, as well as face and back layer relationships were configurated for developing single-weft color gradation coloring weaves, with their quantities calculated simultaneously. Finally, the structural coloring characteristics of jacquard structure with double warps and quadruple wefts for single-weft color gradation were analyzed through specimen simulation.Results 48 types of color thread configurations were obtained when two groups of achromatic warp threads and four groups of chromatic weft threads are employed, while 288 series of that were realized when two groups of achromatic weft threads replacing two groups of chromatic weft threads. Then, 8 structural coloring varieties of jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts for single-weft coloring gradation were established. The maximum of warp and weft intersection diagram for jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts is 2 to the 8R squared power. Further, more than 8.4×10²⁹ single-weft color gradation weaves were calculated when weave repeat R (weave repeat) equals to 5, while more than 1.6×10⁶⁰ warp and weft intersection diagram for jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts were obtained. What's more, specimen simulation was carried out under specific technique parameters, 12-threads 5-steps satin shaded face weave-database as well as warp and weft float were employed, with the interlacement of achromatic color threads, though influenced by the thread density and the density of face warp and weft, the black, white and the gray transition were obtained, besides, texture changed when warp or weft floats varied on the surface of specimen. In addition, on one hand, lightness and saturation adjustment of chromatic color gradation achieved through the interlacement of single achromatic warp and single chromatic weft on the fabric surface, on the other hand, the color of the ground part expressed a specific hue tendency. Last but not least, the figured part and the ground part of each specimen are able to be realized via independent regulation of warp and weft selection on the fabric surface layer simultaneously, presenting that the jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts for single-weft color gradation proposed is effective.

Conclusion Jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts for single-weft color gradation is able to realize the independent control of the face and back warp and weft. If weave repeat outnumbers 5, more than warp and weft intersection diagram generates under jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts, while the quantity of single-weft color gradation coloring weaves exceeds. Besides, structural coloring of specimen simulation not only achieves lightness transition of achromatic color, but also realizes saturation transition of single chromatic color. Thus, this study contributes to the construction of digital weave-database and product development of jacquard structure model with double warps and quadruple wefts for single-weft color gradation.

Key words: digital jacquard, double warp, double-ply, single-weft color gradation, structure formation, structural coloring, fabric design