碱凝胶在生丝织物脱胶印花工艺中的应用

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250403901

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

碱剂脱胶印花是利用碱剂对生丝织物进行局部脱胶,由于生熟丝染色性能不同而显花的一种特殊印染工艺。针对以往碱煮及碱蒸脱胶在局部印花中存在纹样自由度与精细度不足、尺寸受限、周期长且能耗大等问题,采用聚丙烯酸钠碱凝胶热压协同的方法,在局部印花微体系内,满足了生丝织物精细脱胶所需的碱、水与热条件,实现了生丝印花的快速精准脱胶。对比分析了氢氧化钠质量分数、热压时间、热压温度对生丝织物脱胶率的影响;在确保基本脱胶的前提下,进一步探讨了影响花型精细度的因素及规律。研究表明:当碱凝胶在含碱量为3%,热压温度90 ℃,热压时间120 s时,即可实现生丝织物的快速基本脱胶,且脱胶后织物表面形貌及主体结构未受明显影响;在实现基本脱胶且氢氧化钠质量分数固定时,随着聚丙烯酸钠质量分数的增加,花型轮廓精细度增加,对精细印花十分有利;当聚丙烯酸钠质量分数为8%~9%,氢氧化钠质量分数为3.0%~3.5%时,碱凝胶脱胶印花花纹精细度较佳。

关键词: 碱凝胶, 脱胶印花, 生丝织物, 精细度, 微观结构, 印花, 前处理, 脱胶

Abstract:

Objective Alkali-agent degumming printing is a traditional craft with significant cultural value. However, its contemporary development is constrained by technical bottlenecks such as limited pattern precision and low efficiency. To address these challenges, this study explores a novel alkali gel degumming process. Through scientific and quantitative research, it aims to resolve existing technical limitations and promote the modern preservation and innovation of this traditional technique.

Method To achieve rapid and refined degumming of raw silk fabrics, this study developed an alkali gel printing process based on the synergistic effect of alkali, water, and heat. The gel was formed by the reaction between sodium hydroxide and sodium polyacrylate, and its high viscosity enables precise localization of degumming conditions. The optimal process parameters were determined by characterizing the degummed samples using scanning electron microscopy and infrared spectroscopy.

Results The experimental results indicated that sodium hydroxide concentration, hot-pressing temperature, and hot-pressing time all significantly affected the degumming rate of silk fabric. The degumming rate increased with higher sodium hydroxide concentration, showing a positive correlation. This is because the alkali moves sericin away from its isoelectric point, enhancing its swelling and dissolution. The degumming rate also got higher with increasing hot-pressing temperature. When the temperature increased from 60 ℃ to 100 ℃, the degumming rate improved from 25.63% to 27.12%, with consistent gains for every 10 ℃ increment. It was also showed that heat promoted the transfer of alkali through moisture in the gel to the silk fiber surface, creating a synergistic alkali-water-heat condition essential for degumming. However, excessively high temperatures caused rapid moisture evaporation, leading to premature drying and suppressed degumming. The effect of hot-pressing time on degumming rate followed an initial increase followed by a decrease. Extending the time from 30 s to 90 s led to rise of the degumming rate from 25.31% to 26.67%, during which sericin swelled and separated from fibroin. Further extension to 120-150 s reduced the degumming rate to 24.53%, due to moisture loss causing re-solidification of sericin and adhesion to fibroin. Orthogonal tests showed the following influencing factors ranking, which is sodium hydroxide concentration > hot-pressing temperature > hot-pressing time. FTIR analysis confirmed that the chemical structure of fibroin remained unchanged under optimal degumming conditions, with its conformation still dominated by β-sheets, β-turns, α-helix, and random coils.

Conclusion The alkali degumming of raw silk fabric relies on the synergistic effect of alkali, water, and heat. This study developed an alkali gel by neutralizing sodium polyacrylate with sodium hydroxide, which can precisely provide the necessary conditions for localized degumming. Experimental results verified that under the optimized parameters - 3% sodium hydroxide mass fraction, 90 ℃, and 120 s, effective degumming was achieved, resulting in a smooth fiber surface with intact chemical structure. Furthermore, by controlling the mass fractions of sodium hydroxide and sodium polyacrylate within 3%-3.5% and 8%-9%, respectively, optimal pattern contour precision was obtained. The alkali gel process developed in this study enables rapid and precise degumming printing on raw silk fabric, overcoming the limitations of traditional alkali boiling and steaming methods in terms of pattern flexibility and fineness, thereby providing a new technical approach for modern silk degumming and printing.

Key words: alkaline gel, degumming printing, raw silk fabric, fineness, microstructure, printing, pre-treatment, degumming

中图分类号:

TS194

周佳丽, 李玉峰, 武会会. 碱凝胶在生丝织物脱胶印花工艺中的应用[J]. 纺织学报, 2026, 47(04): 180-188.

ZHOU Jiali, LI Yufeng, WU Huihui. Application of alkali gel in degumming and printing process of raw silk fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2026, 47(04): 180-188.

导出引用管理器 EndNote|Reference Manager|ProCite|BibTeX|RefWorks

链接本文: http://www.fzxb.org.cn/CN/10.13475/j.fzxb.20250403901

http://www.fzxb.org.cn/CN/Y2026/V47/I04/180

图/表 14

表1

图1

表2

图2

表3

图3

表4

图4

表5

表6

表7

图5

图6

图7

参考文献 19

[1]	郑巨欣. 中国传统纺织品印花研究[M]. 杭州: 中国美术学院出版社, 2008: 27.
	ZHENG Juxin. Study on printing of traditional textiles in China[M]. Hangzhou: China Academy of Art Press, 2008: 27.
[2]	赵丰. 中国丝绸通史: The general history of Chinese silk[M]. 苏州: 苏州大学出版社, 2005: 230-231.
	ZHAO Feng. General history of Chinese silk[M]. Suzhou: Soochow University Press, 2005: 230-231.
[3]	杨建军, 崔岩. 传统染料红花饼及其制作工艺研究[J]. 丝绸, 2017, 54(12): 73-80.
	YANG Jianjun, CUI Yan. Research on traditional dye safflower cake and its production technology[J]. Silk, 2017, 54(12): 73-80.
[4]	盛羽. 同源而异流: 中国蓝印花布与日本小纹比较研究[J]. 浙江大学学报(人文社会科学版), 2024, 54(3): 100-111.
	SHENG Yu. Same origin but different trends: a comparative study of Chinese blue calico and Japanese komon[J]. Journal of Zhejiang University (Humanities and Social Sciences), 2024, 54(3): 100-111.
[5]	武敏. 吐鲁番出土丝织物中的唐代印染[J]. 文物, 1973(10): 37-47, 81.
	WU Min. Tang dynasty printing and dyeing in silk fabric unearthed in Turpan[J]. Cultural Relics, 1973(10): 37-47, 81.
[6]	王丽. 阿斯塔纳墓出土唐代印花纱工艺特征分析及设计应用[J]. 艺术设计研究, 2020(1): 55-58.
	WANG Li. Study on the technical characteristics and design application of the Tang dynasty printed silk unearthed from Astana tomb[J]. Art & Design Research, 2020(1): 55-58.
[7]	张泓湲, 王乐. 阿斯塔那出土唐代“绿色狩猎纹印花纱”工艺及图案研究[J]. 东华大学学报(社会科学版), 2023, 23(2): 41-48.
	ZHANG Hongyuan, WANG Le. A study on the craft of "green hunting pattern printed silk" of Tang Dynasty unearthed in Astana[J]. Journal of Donghua University (Social Science), 2023, 23(2): 41-48.
[8]	朱盼盼, 武会会, 吴海芳. 传统白蒙丝布法工艺与碱剂印花显色探究[J]. 蚕业科学, 2023, 49(5): 423-429.
	ZHU Panpan, WU Huihui, WU Haifang. Research on traditional silk degumming process and color lopment of alkaline agent printing[J]. Acta Sericologica Sinica, 2023, 49(5): 423-429.
[9]	朱盼盼, 武会会, 周佳丽, 等. 唐代碱剂印花工艺在真丝绡织物染色印花中的应用研究[J]. 蚕业科学, 2025, 51(2): 186-192.
	ZHU Panpan, WU Huihui, ZHOU Jiali, et al. Research on the application of alkaline printing process of Tang dynasty in silk gauze fabric dyeing and printing[J]. Acta Sericologica Sinica, 2025, 51(2): 186-192.
[10]	邓一民, 段宣任, 张高军. 生丝用酒石酸脱胶的工艺条件优化试验[J]. 蚕业科学, 2010, 36(5): 866-869.
	DENG Yimin, DUAN Xuanren, ZHANG Gaojun. Optimization of technological conditions for degumming raw silk with tartaric acid[J]. Science of Sericulture, 2010, 36(5): 866-869.
[11]	张梅飞, 沈静, 丁然, 等. 上浆糊料对真丝绸数码喷墨印花效果的影响研究[J]. 现代纺织技术, 2018, 26(4): 76-79.
	ZHANG Meifei, SHEN Jing, DING Ran, et al. Study on the effects of sizing paste on the digital ink-jet printing of silk[J]. Advanced Textile Technology, 2018, 26(4): 76-79.
[12]	凌新龙, 林海涛, 黄继伟. 蚕丝精练方法及工艺技术研究进展[J]. 蚕业科学, 2013, 39(6): 1186-1192.
	LING Xinlong, LIN Haitao, HUANG Jiwei. Research progress of scouring methods and technologies of silk[J]. Science of Sericulture, 2013, 39(6): 1186-1192.
[13]	张小平, 梅锦秾, 吕佳, 等. 脱胶溶液pH值对蚕丝脱胶效果和丝素蛋白分子质量的影响[J]. 蚕业科学, 2014, 40(4): 699-705.
	ZHANG Xiaoping, MEI Jinnong, LÜ Jia, et al. Effect of degumming solution pH value on degumming of silk fiber and molecular weight of silk fibroin[J]. Science of Sericulture, 2014, 40(4): 699-705.
[14]	黄洁, 杨冰嵚, 陈冬芝. 蚕丝针织物盐酸-蒸汽脱胶工艺的实验研究[J]. 丝绸, 2020, 57(6): 40-44.
	HUANG Jie, YANG Bingqin, CHEN Dongzhi. Experimental study on hydrochloric acid-steam degumming process of silk knitted fabrics[J]. Silk, 2020, 57(6): 40-44.
[15]	BATARA B, STEVEN S, MULYANA M, et al. Recent advances, applications, and challenges in superabsorbent polymers to support water sustainability[J]. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 2025, 142(11): e56588. doi: 10.1002/app.v142.11
[16]	LI Y, QU G, ZHANG H, et al. pH-Responsive removal of dyes from wastewater using MXene composited L-Cysteine-grafted HEMA hydrogel: dynamics, selectivity, regeneration and mechanism[J]. Chemical Engineering Science, 2024, 300: 120648. doi: 10.1016/j.ces.2024.120648
[17]	VISHNYAKOV A, MAO R F, KAM K, et al. Interactions of crosslinked polyacrylic acid polyelectrolyte gels with nonionic and ionic surfactants[J]. The Journal of Physical Chemistry B, 2021, 125(50): 13817-13828. doi: 10.1021/acs.jpcb.1c08638
[18]	叶艳丽, 郭佳兴, 傅雅琴, 等. 桑蚕丝织物蒸汽脱胶工艺及其性能[J]. 现代纺织技术, 2023, 31(1): 221-231. doi: 10.19398/j.att.202206038
	YE Yanli, GUO Jiaxing, FU Yaqin, et al. Steam degumming process and properties of silk fabrics[J]. Advanced Textile Technology, 2023, 31(1): 221-231. doi: 10.19398/j.att.202206038
[19]	叶嘉浩, 王莉莉, 吴明华, 等. 蚕丝织物同花同色双面数码喷墨印花上浆工艺[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(10): 92-97. doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180707506
	YE Jiahao, WANG Lili, WU Minghua, et al. Sizing process of silk fabric by double-sided digital ink-jet printing with same colors and designs[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(10): 92-97. doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180707506

Metrics

Viewed

Full text

Abstract

Cited

Shared

Discussed

氢氧化钠质量分数/%	脱胶率/%
2.0	23.02
2.5	24.06
3.0	26.67
3.5	27.08
4.0	28.13

样品	含量/%
样品	β-折叠	无规卷曲	α-螺旋	β-转角
a(未脱胶)	39.6	23.9	19.8	16.7
b(脱胶率14.52%)	46.4	21.3	17.1	15.2
c(脱胶率21.29%)	49.5	19.7	16.9	13.9
d(脱胶率24.06%)	51.6	19.2	16.3	12.9
e(脱胶率26.88%)	52.7	18.5	16.0	12.8
f(脱胶率28.13%)	48.9	20.8	16.2	14.2

样品	脱胶率/%	断裂强力/N	断裂伸长率/%
a(未脱胶)	0.00	124.2	11.23
c(脱胶率21.29%)	21.29	105.6	17.45
e(脱胶率26.88%)	26.88	84.1	21.06
f(脱胶率28.13%)	28.13	58.8	19.37

NaOH质量分数/%	不同PAAS质量分数下印花后平均线条宽度/μm
NaOH质量分数/%	6%	7%	8%	9%
3.0	1 227.63±22.76	1 183.52±18.35	1 091.84±9.18	1 007.84±0.78
3.5	1 620.83±62.08	1 263.52±26.35	1 209.17±20.92	1 105.57±10.56
4.0	1 783±78.3	1 501.43±50.14	1 404.26±40.43	1 237.84±23.78