纺织学报 ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (01): 118-124.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200100507

• 染整与化学品 • 上一篇    下一篇

织物紧度和抗皱整理工艺对纯棉机织物折皱回复性的影响

侯文双1, 闵洁2, 纪峰1(), 张建祥3, 苏梦2, 何瑞娴1   

  1. 1.东华大学 纺织面料技术教育部重点实验室, 上海 201620
    2.东华大学 化学化工与生物工程学院,上海 201620
    3.鲁泰纺织股份有限公司, 山东 淄博 255100
  • 收稿日期:2020-01-06 修回日期:2020-10-14 出版日期:2021-01-15 发布日期:2021-01-21
  • 通讯作者: 纪峰
  • 作者简介:侯文双(1997—),女,硕士。主要研究方向为纺织产品开发。
  • 基金资助:
    国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB0309200)

Influence of fabric tightness and anti-crease finishing on wrinkle recovery of pure cotton woven fabrics

HOU Wenshuang1, MIN Jie2, JI Feng1(), ZHANG Jianxiang3, SU Meng2, HE Ruixian1   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Textile Science & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
    2. College of Chemistry, Chemical Engineering and Biotechnology, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
    3. Lutai Textile Co., Ltd., Zibo, Shandong 255100, China
  • Received:2020-01-06 Revised:2020-10-14 Online:2021-01-15 Published:2021-01-21
  • Contact: JI Feng

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摘要：

为提升棉织物的抗皱性能,研究了织物紧度和抗皱整理工艺的协同作用对棉织物抗皱性能的影响。选取了不同紧度的斜纹、平纹2组棉织物试样,测试了其在抗皱整理前后的急弹与延迟回复角、表面形貌和化学结构。在实验基础上,结合双因素方差分析,确认了织物紧度、树脂质量浓度双因素的协同作用对织物抗皱性影响的显著性,分析了双因素单独和协同情况下的作用效果。结果表明:织物紧度、树脂质量浓度分别对织物抗皱性有显著、积极的影响;增加树脂质量浓度,低紧度的棉织物回复角增长幅度高于紧度大的棉织物;树脂质量浓度超过80 g/L时,低紧度棉织物回复角高于同组织结构的高紧度试样。

关键词: 棉织物, 低醛2D树脂, 织物紧度, 回复角, 抗皱整理

Abstract:

In order to improve the anti-creasy property of cotton fabrics, the influence of the independent and cross-coupling effect of fabric tightness and anti-crease finishing parameters on wrinkle recovery performance of pure cotton woven fabrics were explored. Two groups of pure cotton woven fabrics, twill and plain woven fabrics, were selected as specimens for this research. For each type of fabric specimen before and after the crease-resistant finishing, the instant/slow recovery angle, surface morphology and surface chemical structure were tested. Based on the experimental data, the effects of fabric tightness and resin concentration on wrinkle recovery of cotton fabric were studied. Double-factor analysis of variance was adopted to evaluate the significance of the cross-coupling effect of fabric tightness and resin concentration on wrinkle recovery of cotton fabrics, and the synergistic effect of fabric tightness and resin concentration on wrinkle resistance of cotton fabrics was analyzed. The results show that fabric stiffness and resin concentration demonstrate significant and positive effect on wrinkle recovery of the fabric respectively. When the resin concentration rises, the growth rate of the wrinkle recovery angle of cotton woven fabric with lower fabric tightness is generally larger than that with higher fabric tightness. In addition, when treated by resin with concentration higher than 80 g/L, the winkle recovery angle of lower-tightness fabric is mostly larger than that of higher tightness with same structure.

Key words: cotton fabric, low-formaldehyde 2D resin, fabric tightness, recovery angle, anti-crease finishing

中图分类号: 

  • TS111.9

表1

织物规格参数表"

试样
编号		 织物
组织		 纱线线密度/
tex		 织物经纬密/
(根·(10 cm)-1)		 经向紧度/
%		 纬向紧度/
%		 总紧度/
%		 面密度/
(g·m-2)
经纱 纬纱 经密 纬密
A1 三上一下斜纹 83.3 83.3 244.0 118.0 82.43 39.89 89.44 302
A2 三上一下斜纹 58.3 83.3 307.0 196.5 86.76 66.48 95.56 365
A3 三上一下斜纹 36.4 58.3 425.0 220.5 94.92 62.29 98.08 284
A4 三上一下斜纹 29.2 36.4 503.5 236.0 100.76 52.73 100.36 280
B1 平纹 7.3 7.3 524.0 394.0 52.31 39.33 71.06 74
B2 平纹 14.6 14.6 472.0 236.0 66.74 33.37 77.84 101
B3 平纹 9.7 9.7 551.0 551.0 63.58 63.58 86.73 107
B4 平纹 36.4 58.3 393.5 157.5 87.94 40.62 92.84 216

表2

织物总紧度与折皱回复角测量数据"

试样
编号		 总紧度/
%		 折皱回复角/(°)
平均值 标准差
A1 89.44 127.4 1.66
A2 95.56 129.2 2.10
A3 98.08 128.3 5.72
A4 100.36 127.1 2.44
B1 71.06 109.0 4.05
B2 77.84 123.0 4.40
B3 86.73 125.6 4.24
B4 92.84 127.1 3.85

图1

织物总紧度与急弹回复角、延迟回复角的关系"

图2

织物试样A4抗皱整理前后扫描电镜照片"

图3

整理前后试样A4的红外光谱图"

表3

经不同质量浓度低醛2D树脂整理前后各试样回复角"

试样
编号		 折皱回复角/(°)
原样 40 g/L 60 g/L 80 g/L 100 g/L 120 g/L
A1 127.4 138.3 142.8 161.1 168.4 173.2
A2 129.2 146.5 151.1 164.7 169.0 172.2
A3 128.2 144.7 150.9 156.7 160.0 164.0
A4 127.1 142.2 148.9 150.1 153.4 160.0
B1 109.0 122.5 150.5 204.3 249.2 255.0
B2 123.0 126.2 137.7 163.2 201.1 217.9
B3 125.6 128.0 140.8 163.1 192.4 224.4
B4 127.1 134.9 144.3 170.7 194.4 212.4

表4

斜纹织物试样(A1~A4)回复角的均值"

试样
编号		 紧度/% 回复角/(°)
原样 40 g/L 60 g/L 80 g/L 100 g/L 120 g/LL
A1 89.44 127.4 138.3 142.8 161.1 168.4 173.2
A2 95.56 129.2 146.5 151.1 164.7 169.0 172.2
A3 98.08 128.2 144.7 150.9 156.7 160.0 164.0
A4 100.36 127.1 142.2 148.9 150.1 153.4 160.0

表5

斜纹织物试样双因素方差分析结果"

方差来源 平方和 自由度 F值 显著性
织物紧度 883.2 3 10.04 **
树脂质量浓度 16 915.2 5 115.35 **
协同效应 1 089.0 15 2.48 **
随机误差 2 111.7 72
总计 20 999.1 95

表6

平纹织物试样(B1~B4)回复角的均值"

试样
编号		 紧度/
%		 回复角/(°)
原样 40 g/L 60 g/L 80 g/L 100 g/L 120 g/L
B1 71.06 109.03 122.53 150.53 204.32 249.18 255.00
B2 77.84 113.03 126.18 137.73 163.18 201.10 217.90
B3 86.73 125.60 128.00 140.80 163.08 192.40 224.40
B4 92.84 127.10 134.93 144.28 170.73 194.35 212.38

表7

平纹织物试样双因素方差分析结果"

方差来源 平方和 自由度 F值 显著性
织物紧度 7 191.18 3 106.756 **
树脂质量浓度 158 846.857 5 1 414.892 **
协同效应 12 122.26 15 35.992 **
随机误差 1 616.656 72
总计 179 776.953 95

图4

经不同质量浓度树脂整理后试样总紧度与急弹、延迟回复角的关系"

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