纺织学报 ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (05): 7-11.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211206706

• 特约专栏:第十一届中国纺织学术年会专家观点 • 上一篇    下一篇

短纤纱经编织物生产关键技术研究进展

蒋高明(), 程碧莲, 万爱兰, 李炳贤   

  1. 江南大学 针织技术教育部工程研究中心, 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2021-12-31 修回日期:2022-02-21 出版日期:2022-05-15 发布日期:2022-05-30
  • 作者简介:蒋高明(1962—),男,教授,博士。研究方向为纺织智能化、数字化及新型纺织结构材料。E-mail: jgm@jiangnan.edu.cn。

Research progress in key technologies of spun yarn warp knitting production

JIANG Gaoming(), CHENG Bilian, WAN Ailan, LI Bingxian   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2021-12-31 Revised:2022-02-21 Published:2022-05-15 Online:2022-05-30

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摘要：

针对短纤纱经编生产强力低、毛羽多、延伸小、捻度大以及成本高等问题,总结了短纤纱经编生产中的整经技术、高速生产技术、清洁生产技术、智能生产技术和全成形经编生产技术的发展及生产应用。通过梳理经编用短纤纱成纱质量要求,包括纱线断裂强度、表面毛羽和延伸性能等,进一步分析了短纤纱经编整经技术、短纤纱经编织造技术存在的问题和解决方法。通过介绍短纤纱经编产品在衬衫面料、内衣面料、裤料、蕾丝面料领域的应用现状以及生产情况,对短纤纱经编技术未来发展方向进行展望,指出了短纤纱经编生产技术将持续向特色化、高档化和功能化方向发展。

关键词: 短纤纱, 经编, 整经, 针织技术, 内衣面料

Abstract:

In view of the problems of low strength, high hairiness, small elongation, high twist and high cost in warp knitting production using spun fiber yarns, the warping technology, high-speed production technology, clean production technology, intelligent production and fully formed warp knitting production technology in the production of spun yarn warp knitting were summarized in this paper. By summarizing the yarn quality requirements of spun yarn for warp knitting, including yarn breaking strength, surface hairiness and elongation properties, the problems and solutions of spun yarn warp knitting technology were further analyzed. Through introducing the application status and production situation of spun yarn warp knitted products in the fields of shirt fabrics, underwear fabrics, trousers and lace fabrics, the future development direction of spun yarn warp knitted technology was prospected, pointing out that the production technology of spun yarn warp knitting is gradually going towards specialization, high quality and functionality.

Key words: spun yarn, warp knitting, warping, knitting technology, underwear fabric

中图分类号: 

  • TS186.1

图1

短纤纱经编整经机"

图2

短纤纱智能型高速经编机吹吸风系统示意图"

图3

短纤纱智能型高速经编机"

图4

千鸟格经编裤料"

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