Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (11): 100-105.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181104407

• Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Diazotization-coupling dyeing and process control of silk fabrics by primary aryl amine dyes

JIANG Hua1,2(), ZHANG Zhiheng1, CAI Jinfang1, CHEN Weiguo1,2, CUI Zhihua1,2, SUN Yanfeng3   

  1. 1. Engineering Research Center for Eco-Dyeing and Finishing of Textiles, Ministry of Education, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Advanced Textile Materials and Manufacturing Technology, Ministry of Education, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    3. Zhejiang Jihua Group Co., Ltd., Hangzhou, Zhejiang 311227, China
  • Received:2018-11-16 Revised:2019-04-03 Online:2019-11-15 Published:2019-11-26

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Abstract:

In order to improve the fastness property of dyed silk fabrics, primary aryl amine dyes were selected for dyeing silk fabrics by a diazotization-coupling dyeing process. The dyeing conditions, such as dyeing temperature, pH value and concentration of sodium sulfate were optimized and the mechanism of color change before and after dyeing was discussed. The application scope of dyes was explored. The results showed that the K/S values of dyed fabrics are greatly increased when primary aryl amine dyes and silk fabrics are heated in one bath followed by diazotization of dyes and coupling with silk at low temperature. The reason for color change of dyed silk fabrics originates from the change of dye molecular conjugation leading to the variation of chromophore's band gap. Aniline, naphthylamine and 1-aminoanthraquinone dyes can be applied in this reactive dyeing method. The washing fastness and rubbing fastness of dyed silk fabrics could reach above grade 4.

Key words: silk fabric, primary aryl amine dye, diazotization-coupling reaction, dyeing property, color fastness

CLC Number: 

  • TS193.5

Fig.1

Chemical structures of primary aryl amine dyes. (a) C.I. Acid Brown 4; (b) D1; (c) C.I. Blue 40; (d) C.I. Acid Green 20"

Fig.2

K/S value curves of dyed silk fabrics by diazotization-coupling coloration"

Fig.3

Effect of dyeing temperature on K/S value of dyed silk fabrics"

Fig.4

Effect of pH value of dye bath on K/S value of dyed silk fabrics"

Fig.5

Effect of mass concentration of sodium sulfate on K/S value of dyed silk fabrics"

Fig.6

K/S value curves of dyed silk fabrics by C.I. Acid Brown 4 and that of after extraction treatment"

Fig.7

Energy level calculation of C.I. Acid Brown 4 and its related simulacrum of dyeing product"

Fig.8

K/S value curves of dyed silk fabrics by diazotization-coupling coloration and under conventional acid condition. (a) D1; (b) C.I. Acid Blue 40; (c) C.I. Acid Green 20"

Tab.1

Diazotization-coupling dyeing properties of silk fabrics dyed by primary aryl amine dyes"

染料 上染率/% 固色率/% K/S值 L* a* b*
C.I.酸性棕4 85 82 15.77 25.38 22.75 -0.07
染料D1 90 97 19.30 21.90 19.20 5.74
C.I.酸性蓝40 84 29 3.68 42.13 6.74 20.36
C.I.酸性绿20 81 93 18.96 24.42 -8.38 -6.53

Tab.2

Color fastnesses of silk fabrics dyed by diazotization-coupling coloration method 级"

染料 耐皂洗色牢度 耐摩擦色牢度
变色 沾色 干 湿
丝 棉
C.I.酸性棕4 4~5 4~5 4~5 5 4~5
染料D1 4~5 4 4~5 5 4~5
C.I.酸性蓝40 5 4~5 4~5 4~5 4
C.I.酸性绿20 4~5 4~5 5 5 4~5
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