Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (05): 66-72.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200804008

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Development and performance evaluation of bionic knitted winter sports fabrics

WANG Li1,2, ZHANG Bingjie1,2, WANG Jianping1,2,3(), LIU Li4, YANG Yalan1,2, YAO Xiaofeng1,2, LI Qianwen1,2, LU You1,2   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    3. Shanghai International Institute of Design & Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
    4. Fashion Accessory Art and Engineering College, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100029, China
  • Received:2020-08-07 Revised:2021-01-20 Online:2021-05-15 Published:2021-05-20
  • Contact: WANG Jianping E-mail:wangjp@dhu.edu.cn

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Abstract:

To develop knitted winter fabrics with better thermal-wet comfort properties, three types of butterfly scales were selected to construct the geometric structure 3-D model using SolidWorks software. Using 70 dtex(72 f) double Dryarn® polypropylene yarn as surface yarn, 50 dtex Dryarn® polypropylene yarn covered 17 dtex spandex as inside yarn and 150 dtex polyester as surface yarn, 30 dtex polyester covered 20 dtex spandex as inside yarn, 6 knitted fabrics with imitation butterfly scale were developed on the SANTONI MF8-CHN computerized jacquard weft circular knitting machine according to the characteristics of 3-D model. The thermal-wet comfort of bionic knitted fabrics were studied by testing and analyzing the warmth retention, moisture permeability, air permeability and moisture management ability, and the comprehensive evaluation of thermal-wet comfort was carried out by using the fuzzy mathematical evaluation method. The results show that the bionic fabrics of butterfly scale structure with Dryarn® polypropylene yarn as surface yarn not only has good thermal-wet comfort performance, but can also manufactured conveniently and efficiently in terms of knitting technology. The finding broadens the idea of developing functional textiles from the aspect of fabric structure design.

Key words: knitted fabric, 3-D modeling, butterfly scale structure, thermal-wet comfort, fuzzy evaluation

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.71

Fig.1

SEM images of surface configutation in butterfly wing scales. (a) Wing scale in Papilio maackii; (b) Wing scale in Polyommatus eros; (c) Wing scale in Achillidesbianor cramer"

Fig.2

3-D models of three types of butterfly scales. (a) Wavy structure I; (b) Butterfly wing structure Ⅱ; (c) Honeycomb structure Ⅲ"

Fig.3

Knitting artisan of bionic fabrics. (a) Wavy structure I; (b) Butterfly wing structure Ⅱ; (c) Honeycomb structure Ⅲ"

Fig.4

Morphology of biomimetic fabric. (a) Wavy structure I; (b) Butterfly wing structure Ⅱ; (c) Honeycomb structure Ⅲ"

Tab.1

Fabric specification parameters"

组别 织物编号 纱线种类 结构 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 厚度/mm 横密/
(纵行·(5 cm)-1)		 纵密/
(横列·(5 cm) -1)
A组 1# 聚丙烯纱线 波浪结构 497.3 2.116 66 95
2# 聚丙烯纱线 蝶翅结构 654.1 3.327 62 86
3# 聚丙烯纱线 蜂窝结构 579.3 2.684 75 115
B组 4# 涤纶 波浪结构 492.5 2.215 68 100
5# 涤纶 蝶翅结构 643.9 3.367 65 97
6# 涤纶 蜂窝结构 564.9 2.823 75 125

Tab.2

Test results of fabric warmth"

织物
编号		 热阻/
(m2·K·W-1)		 传热系数/
(W·m-2·℃-1)		 克罗值/
(10-3clo)		 保温率/%
A组 1# 63.145 15.855 407.30 52.99
2# 104.765 9.565 676.05 65.13
3# 75.845 13.240 489.25 57.46
B组 4# 57.44 19.29 336.65 49.61
5# 83.88 12.085 541.10 58.79
6# 65.725 15.65 423.95 52.61

Fig.5

Relationship between fabric thickness and warmth retention rate"

Fig.6

Test results of biomimetic fabric air permeability"

Fig.7

Test results of biomimetic fabric moisture permeability"

Tab.3

Test results of fabric moisture management"

组别 织物编号 WTT/s WTB/s ART/(%·s-1) ARB/(%·s-1) MWRT/mm MWRB/mm SST/(mm·s-1) SSB/(mm·s-1) R/%
A组 1# 18.26 46.24 171.21 127.02 5 10 0.272 0.176 102.13
2# 22.31 32.66 69.65 35.90 10 10 0.255 0.333 134.13
3# 27.95 36.84 72.69 37.14 5 5 0.178 0.135 -106.93
B组 4# 17.14 119.95 230.97 0 5 0 0.289 0 -423.37
5# 11.98 119.95 77.60 0 5 0 0.442 0 -429.22
6# 16.28 119.95 81.41 0 5 0 0.204 0 -556.20
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