Table of Content

15 May 2021, Volume 42 Issue 05

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Invited Paper

Preparation and biomedical applications of electrospun short fibers

ZHANG Beilei, SHEN Mingwu, SHI Xiangyang

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  1-8.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20210106008

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Traditional electrospun nanofibers are often used as tissue engineering scaffolds to repair defects, which often need invasive implantation by surgery, greatly limiting their applications in biomedical fields. In order to promote the development and applications of electrospinning technology, this paper reviewed the preparation and functionalization methods of electrospun short fibers, the biomedical applications of functional short fiber in diagnosis and therapy, and tissue engineering. Electrospun short fibers have received great attention and can be prepared by adjusting process parameters and subsequent processing. Electrospun short fibers retain their intrinsic functions of electrospun nanofiber membranes, they can avoid the invasion and trauma caused by the implantation of fiber membranes because of their small size and monodispersity. The challenges and future development prospects of electrospun short fibers in biomedical fields were also analyzed.

Fiber Materials

Photocatalytic performance of iron hexadecachlorophthalocyanine/ polyacrylonitrile composite nanofibers synergistically enhanced by chloride ion

ZHU Zhexin, MA Xiaoji, XIA Lin, LÜ Wangyang, CHEN Wenxing

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  9-15.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200802807

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In order to improve the catalytic activity and reusability of the powder catalyst and effectively remove the organic pollutants in high salinity wastewater, iron hexadecachlorophthalocyanine (FePcCl₁₆)/polyacrylonitrile(PAN) composite nanofibers were prepared using electrospinning technology. The composite nanofibers were characterized by field emission scaning electron microscopy, transmission electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction. Carbamazepine (CBZ) was selected as the model pollutant to study the photocatalytic degradation activity of photoactivated persulfate of composite nanofibers in the presence of chloride ions. The results show that FePcCl₁₆ was well dispersed in PAN nanofibers, and FePcCl₁₆ molecular clustering was successfully avoided to maintain its catalytic performance. Under simulated sunlight, the catalytic activity of composite nanofibers increased with the increase of chloride ion concentration. At higher chloride ion concentrations (6.0-18.0 g/L), CBZ and its degradation products (including potentially toxic chlorinated compounds) can be completely degraded. After 5 degradation recycling tests, FePcCl₁₆/PAN still demonstrate good catalytic degradation performance.

Preparation and performance of polyvinyl alcohol/sodium alginate/berberine medical dressing

WANG Chunhong, LI Ming, LONG Bixuan, CAI Yingjie, WANG Lijian, ZUO Qi

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  16-22.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200605207

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In order to improve the antibacterial and water resistance of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)/sodium alginate (SA) medical dressings, berberine (BR) was used as a natural antibacterial agent to load on the medical dressing. The PVA/SA/BR nanofiber membrane was prepared by electrostatic spinning, and the membrane was cross-linked in calcium chloride absolute ethanol solution. The chemical structure, antibacterial performance, liquid absorption and mechanical properties of the PVA/SA/BR nanofiber membrane were characterized and analyzed. The results show obvious beads of BR in PVA/SA nanofiber,which combine well with PVA/SA. After cross-linking with calcium chloride, the PVA/SA/BR nanofiber membrane changes from mesh to smooth membrane. When the mass fraction of berberine is 6%, the breaking strength of the PVA/SA/BR nanofiber membrane is 1.76 MPa, and the antibacterial rates for Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus are 99.41% and 97.89% repspectively. When the mass fraction of calcium chloride is 4% and the cross-linking time is 4 h, the breaking strength of the PVA/SA/BR nanofiber membrane is 4.17 MPa and the liquid absorption rate is 1 257%.

Rheological properties of cellulose/LiCl/ N, N-dimethylacetamide solution

YU Meiqiong, YUAN Hongmei, CHEN Lihui

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  23-30.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200901808

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In order to investigate the effect of rheological properties of cellulose solution on the spinnability of electrospinning, the steady and dynamic rheological properties of cellulose/LiCl/N, N-dimethylacetamide(DMAc)solution were studied,and electrospinning was carried out on this basis. It was found that the cellulose/LiCl/DMAc solutions were pseudoplastic fluid. The research results showed that the apparent viscosity, consistency coefficient and structural viscosity index of the solution decrease with the increase of temperature and increase with the increase of cellulose mass fraction, while the variations of non-Newtonian index were opposite. The non-Newtonian indices of the 2.5% and 3.0% cellulose/LiCl/DMAc solutions were closer to 1 at 20-60 ℃, meaning that the solutions have stable rheological properties. The structural viscosity indices of the 2.5% and 3.0% cellulose/LiCl/DMAc solutions were smaller, making them easier to spin, with 3.0% cellulose/LiCl/DMAc solution the optimal for electrospinning at room temperature.

Preparation and properties of expanded polytetrafluoroethylene membrane composites with high dust holding capacity for high efficiency air filtration

LIU Chaojun, LIU Junjie, DING Yike, MA Shaofeng, ZHANG Xiuqin, ZHANG Jianqing

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  31-37.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200805707

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In order to improve the dust holding capacity of expanded polytetrafluoroethylene (ePTFE) membrane, and expand the application of ePTFE membrane composite materials in the field of clean room purification, polypropylene (PP) melt blown filter material with different thickness, fiber diameter and electret treatment was used as dust holding layer for the preparation of ePTFE membrane composite. The dust holding performance and microstructure of the composite were analyzed. The results show that the dust holding capacity of the composites increases linearly with the increase of the dust layer thickness. When the dust layer thickness is 0.45 mm, the dust holding capacity of the composite reaches 6.37 g/m², which is 266% higher than that of the ePTFE membrane. The dust holding capacity of the composite increases as the dust layer fiber diameter decreases. When the fiber diameter of the dust layer is 1.462 μm, the dust holding capacity of the composite increases to 7.96 g/m², which is 357% higher than that of the ePTFE membrane. After electret treatment, when the fiber diameter of the dust layer is 3.611 μm, the dust holding capacity of the composite increases by 136% compared with that before electret treatment.

Preparation and performance of flexible and anisotropic strain sensor based on electrospinning

ZHANG Lin, LI Zhicheng, ZHENG Qinyuan, DONG Jun, ZHANG Yin

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  38-45.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200804308

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In order to detect the strain in a specific direction, aligned polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) nanofiber mats were fabricated via magnetic electrospinning and packaged in soft materials to prepare flexible and anisotropic strain sensors. The effects of electrospinning parameters on the morphology of nanofibers were studied. Raman spectroscopy was used to characterize the crystal form in PVDF nanofibers. The performances of flexible strain sensors and the feasibility of applying the sensor in monitoring ureteral peristalsis were tested. The experimental results show that PVDF nanofibers fabricated by an 11.5 kV voltage under 10 cm eletrospinning distance and 5 mL/h injection rate present uniform morphology and best alignment. The β phase is in the predominant crystal form in the PVDF nanofiber. Bending test shows that the sensor generates an obvious response signal for the bending perpendicular to the PVDF nanofiber, while the sensor is insensitive for the bending in parallel to the PVDF nanofiber. The work shows that the sensor performs good anisotropic detection sensitivity to strain.

Textile Engineering

Effect of ratio of strands twist factor to single yarn twist factor on properties of viscose plied yarns

NI Jie, YANG Jianping, YU Chongwen

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  46-50.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200901605

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In order to reflect comprehensively the influence of single yarn structural parameters on the properties of plied yarns, the influence of twist factor ratio on the strength, hairiness and wear resistance was studied with ring spun yarns made from viscose fiber with different yarn linear density and twists. The results show that there are two critical twist factor ratios for the reversely twisted plied yarns, which are about 0.7 and 1.5 respectively. At these two twist factor ratios, plied yarns can obtain higher strength. When the twist factor ratio is greater than 1, the number of harmful hairiness on the strands surface is reduced significantly. When the twist factor ratio is between 0 and 2, the larger the twist factor ratio is, the better the strands wear resistance. According to the overall comparison, twist factor ratio at 1.5 ensures the best comprehensive quality of the strands.

Comparative study on testing methods for unidirectional water transport in fabrics

JIANG Yanting, YAN Qingshuai, XIN Binjie, GAO Cong, SHI Meiwu

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  51-58.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200407108

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The unidirectional water transport performance of textiles is a key index that affects the comfort of textiles or sports textiles used for the summer season. On the basis of analyzing the state of water diffusion measured by moisture management tester (MMT) needle array sensor, four types of fabrics are selected for actual measurement. It is reflected that the MMT method is prone to large test errors for fabrics with dot-array water repellent application for unidirectional water transport function and for unidirectional water transport fabrics with embedded conductive fibers. A new method was proposed to collect dynamically the water transfer image of the front and back sides of textiles, which offers more complete water infiltration information. The unidirectional water transfer performance of textiles in one direction were evaluated easily to obtain more accurate results. The new image method for dynamical collection of water transmission images of the front and back of textiles demonstrates a good application prospect.

Three-dimensional simulation of weft-knitted jacquard fabric based on WebGL

ZHENG Peixiao, JIANG Gaoming

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  59-65.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200905707

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In order to simulate three-dimensional (3-D) structural and weft-knitted jacquard fabrics, the structural characteristics of simulation were summarized on the basis of the knitting principle of each jacquard type. By means of mathematical modeling, three types of loop geometry models, loop point model and translational model of jacquard fabrics were established. WebGL technology and 3-D graphics engine library Three.js were adopted for drawing and rendering 3-D loop structures according to the spatial coordinates of the loop points. The 3-D simulation was intercepted as texture material, and 3-D virtual simulation of weft-knitted jacquard fabrics was created through technology of texture mapping. The simulation method was tested with different types of jacquard effects. The results show that the matrix model is effective for the rapid transformation and calculation of the loop coordinates, and WebGL technology works for the visualization of 3-D structural simulation to accurately describe the structure characteristics of jacquard fabrics. Realistic virtual simulation of clothing was enhanced using this method.

Development and performance evaluation of bionic knitted winter sports fabrics

WANG Li, ZHANG Bingjie, WANG Jianping, LIU Li, YANG Yalan, YAO Xiaofeng, LI Qianwen, LU You

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  66-72.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200804008

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To develop knitted winter fabrics with better thermal-wet comfort properties, three types of butterfly scales were selected to construct the geometric structure 3-D model using SolidWorks software. Using 70 dtex(72 f) double Dryarn^® polypropylene yarn as surface yarn, 50 dtex Dryarn^® polypropylene yarn covered 17 dtex spandex as inside yarn and 150 dtex polyester as surface yarn, 30 dtex polyester covered 20 dtex spandex as inside yarn, 6 knitted fabrics with imitation butterfly scale were developed on the SANTONI MF8-CHN computerized jacquard weft circular knitting machine according to the characteristics of 3-D model. The thermal-wet comfort of bionic knitted fabrics were studied by testing and analyzing the warmth retention, moisture permeability, air permeability and moisture management ability, and the comprehensive evaluation of thermal-wet comfort was carried out by using the fuzzy mathematical evaluation method. The results show that the bionic fabrics of butterfly scale structure with Dryarn^® polypropylene yarn as surface yarn not only has good thermal-wet comfort performance, but can also manufactured conveniently and efficiently in terms of knitting technology. The finding broadens the idea of developing functional textiles from the aspect of fabric structure design.

Knitting process design of fully-fashioned Y-shaped three-way pipe fabrics

CHEN Xi, MIAO Xuhong, LIU Qing, DONG Zhijia

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  73-78.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200903706

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In order to develop industrial tubular fabrics that meet market demand, a Y-shaped three-way tubular knitted fabric was engineered by using a computerized fully-fashioned double-needle-bed flat knitting machine, which was taken as an example to study the forming method of fully-fashioned tubular fabrics and the knitting process parameters. Fully-fashioned needles were used to narrow and widen the tubular fabric by transferring loops of the front and back needle beds while knitting the cylindrical shaped fabric. By changing the transverse width of the fabric, the Y-shaped three-way pipe can be knitted fully-fashioned. When designing, the three-dimensional structure of the Y-shaped three-way pipe was tranformed into a two-dimensional shape, and according to parameters such as size, fabric density, knitting direction and the angle between pipes, the knitting process was designed and calculated. The results show that the angle between the Y-shaped three-way fabric pipes is determined by the knitting-to-narrowing ratio. The larger the knitting-to-narrowing ratio, the greater the angle between the pipes. The accuracy of the calculation formula and the feasibility of the design method were verified by producing Y-shaped three-way pipe fabrics with two different angles, employing different pipe diameters and fabric densities.

Preparation of flexible sensor with composite dielectric layer of cotton fabric/polydimethylsiloxane

XIAO Yuan, LI Hongying, LI Qian, ZHANG Wei, YANG Pengcheng

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  79-83.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200902105

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In order to solve the existing problems such as complex process and high cost in the preparation of fabric-based flexible pressure sensors, a new method was proposed for preparing a fabric-based capacitive flexible pressure sensor by affixing equal width interdigital copper foil on both sides of the plain woven cotton fabric and encapsulating the assembly using polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS). The microscopic morphology of the cross-section of the sensor array unit was observed, and the sensor performances were tested. Experiment results show that it has a special microstructure composite dielectric layer formed by PDMS coated fabric fibers, and its sensitivities are about 8.66×10^-3, 0.94×10^-3 and 0.43×10^-3 kPa^-1 under pressures of 0-0.75, 0.75-125 and 125-580 kPa respectively. The maximum detectable limit of the sensor can reach 580 kPa, whose maximum hysteresis is about 5.5%, and the sensor demonstrates good repeatability and stability. The flexibility and tactile testing show that it can clearly recognize and feedback the process of bending with different angles and intermittent finger pressing.

Characterization of shock wave propagation in ceramic reinforced weft-knitted biaxial multilayer yarnlining fabric and woven fabrics composites

QIAO Cancan, JIANG Yaming, QI Yexiong, LIN Wenni, ZHANG Ye

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  84-89.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200605506

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In order to characterize the propagation of shock waves in composite materials, a composite was prepared by compounding the weft-knitted biaxial (MBWK) multi-layer lining fabric, woven fabric and a ceramic layer alternately with unsaturated polyester resin. The hammer impact test was carried out on the composite material specimens, and the crack propagation and fragmentation of the ceramic sheets were studied after the specimen was impact damaged. The propagation of impact stress in the composite materials was explored with different structures, revealing the stress wave propagation mechanism of the MBWK fabric reinforced composites upon impact loading. The experimental results show that during the impact of the composite materials, delamination of the materials occurs. The existence of the transverse stress wave is manifested on the surface of the ceramic material, which causes ring damage to the ceramic layer, and the longitudinal wave propagates along the thickness of the material, and the layers of the composite material, causing different mechanisms of energy absorption for each layer. At the same time, under the same process conditions, the damage area and crack number of woven composite are small, which indicates that the woven composite has more impact energy absorption and better impact resistance.

Dyeing and Finishing & Chemicals

Study on color depth based on different formulas in Coloro color system

JIN Rui, ZHANG Yike, LI Rong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  90-95.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200401007

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To promote the application of Coloro color system in color related industries, different color depth formulas were used to analyze the color depth, and the relationship between the color depth and lightness values were studied based on the 3 500 color cards of the Coloro color system. The Munsell color system was used to check the iso-depth of the color system; then the color depth level of the color cards were evaluated by using the Gall formula and the ISO color depth standard. The Integ formula and color value were used to analyze the color depth of Coloro color system. The results show that the Coloro color system offers good iso-depth. The results of the 1/1 levels in the Gall and ISO standards are similar, and each level has its corresponding lightness value distribution area. The color depth value of the Coloro color card reduces as the value of the lightness label increases by the Integ formula and the color value, which indicates that the above formulas are not applicable to the evaluation of color depth of Coloro color system.

Relationship between Disperse Yellow 6GSL crystal form and thermal stability of its dispersions

WANG Ruifeng, LI Min, TIAN Anli, WANG Chunxia, FU Shaohai

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  96-102.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200707107

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To address the problem of poor stability of ink-jet printing direct ink under high temperature conditions, this study focused on the relationship between the purification solvent and Disperse Yellow 6GSL crystal form. The effects of grinding process conditions on the particle size and grinding efficiency of the dye dispersion were investigated. The relationship between the crystal form of Disperse Yellow 6GSL and the stability and filtration performance of their dispersions under high temperature conditions was investigated. The results show that the purity of the dye filter cake purified by hot water at 60 ℃ is 99.46%, and the mass ratio of Disperse Yellow 6GSL to home made dispersant 4600W is 1∶1.5. Under the condition that the dispersing machine rotation at 2 500 r/min for initial grinding for 5 h and then grinding for 14 h at a speed of 4 000 r/min, the average particle size of the dye dispersion is 90.39 nm. Before and after the dispersion is conditioned at 60 ℃ for 72 h, the filtration flow rates in the polyvinglidene membrane with an absolute pore size of 1 μm are 428 g/min and 333 g/min. The dispersion have good filtration performance and thermal stability.The dispersions can endow high thermal stability of the disperse dye ink with direct ink-jet printing.

Butterfly color analysis and application based on clustering algorithm and color network

REN Yanbo, JIANG Chao, WANG Jiaoqing, YU Lin, WANG Yuanyuan

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  103-108.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200808506

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The colorful butterfly with unique natural beauty is not only a common design theme, but also an important source of design inspiration. In order to clarify the color of butterfly as well as its matching rules and help designers better reuse the color of butterfly, the color of butterfly was studied and analyzed by clustering algorithm and color network. The color images of eight different angles of a single butterfly were firstly clustered twice using the K-means clustering algorithm, the main colors of butterfly were extracted, and the standard color cards of 110 butterflies were constructed. Then, the butterfly standard color cards were clustered for the third time, and the butterfly color network model including 20 network nodes was established, combined with the actual matching relationship of butterfly color. The reliability of the color network model was verified by six butterfly samples. Finally, the feasibility and application value of standard color card and color network model as color matching assistant tools were verified by the example of silk scarf pattern color matching design. Research and application cases show that butterfly standard color card and color network model can provide effective assistance and support for designers in the process of color design.

Preparation of polyacrylonitrile conductive nanofiber yarn grafted with acrylic acid using plasma technology

LIU Xiaoqian, CHEN Yu, ZHOU Huimin, YAN Yuan, XIA Xin

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  109-114.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200900207

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In order to improve the adhesion fastness of polypyrrole on the surface of polyacrylonitrile nanofiber yarn and improve the surface hydrophilicity of nanofiber yarn, the surface of polyacrylonitrile nanofiber yarn was grafted with acrylic acid by plasma technology at ambient temperature and pressure, and the conductive nanofiber yarn of polypyrrole was prepared by in-situ polymerization. The optimal treatment time and grafting time of plasma grafting modification were discussed, and the effects of pyrrole monomer concentration, oxidant dosage, dopant concentration and reaction time on the electrical conductivity of polyacrylonitrile nanofiber yarn were analyzed. The results show that when the plasma power is 100 W, the grafting time is 4 h, the water absorption rate is increased from 227.21% to 350.31%, and the mass increase rate of polypyrrole is up to 90%. With concentrations of pyrrole being 0.6 mol/L, ferric chloride 0.8 mol/L, hydrochloric acid 0.6 mol/L, and the reaction time is 0 ℃ for 4 h, the conductivity of polyacrylonitrile nanofiber yarn is increased to 4.589 S/cm.

Preparation and properties of cotton fabric modified by silver nanowires

ZHAO Yongfang, QIAN Jianhua, SUN Liying, PENG Huimin, MEI Min

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  115-121.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200505207

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In order to increase the added value of cotton fabrics and improve its adsorption to modifying components, sodium periodate was used for oxidation treatment to increase the adhesion of cotton fiber. Silver nanowires (AgNWs) were then prepared by one-step polyol reduction method at 160 ℃ and dispersed in anhydrous ethanol. With a cotton fabric as the substrate, AgNWs was finished on the surface of the fabric by the impregnation drying method. The finished cotton fabric was characterized, and its UV resistance, conductivity and washing resistance were tested. The results show that with the increase of AgNWs concentration, the electrical conductivity of the fabric increases by more than 80%. When the AgNWs concentration is 10 g/L, the UV protection factor (UPF) value reaches 55, and the UV transmittance is reduced to less than 2.5%. The washing resistance of the modified cotton fabric is improved by 20% after the oxidation treatment, and the UPF value of the modified fabric after three times of washing reaches 46.51. The flexible conductive cotton fabric can be applied to flexible electronic textiles and anti ultraviolet products.

Characteristics and factorial study of color transfer between dyed fiber and colored spun yarns

YUAN Li, XIONG Ying, GU Qian, WANG Danshu, HUO Da, LIU Junping

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  122-129.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200504808

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In order to shorten the sampling period for creating colored spun yarns and increase the production rate, spectrum and color characteristics was proposed for the analysis of the complex color transfer characteristics between fibers and yarns. Aiming at the random volatility of the color sample itself, a class separable model based on the characteristics of within and between classes and the criteria for discriminating the difference of color are established. The results show that when the morphology of the dyed fiber mixture changes, its spectral characteristics and color characteristics are significantly changed, and it has nothing to do with the fiber mixing ratio. When the twist coefficient of colored spun yarn changes, its color consistency is improved and the brightness value changes too. In addition, the color of colored spun yarn is not only related to fiber ratio parameters, but is also closely related to the processing parameters. It is a typical two-parameter color model. The research in this paper has important theoretical value for exploring the color characteristics and for analytical modeling of colored spun yarns, and it also provides practical guidance for fast sampling of colored spun yarns.

Simultaneous determination of plasticizers in waste cotton by ultrasonic assisted solid phase extraction gas chromatography tandem mass spectrometry

TIE Jiancheng, LIU Jun, JIA Lixia, ZANG Mengmeng, SUN Huiqin, ZHU Peng

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  130-137.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200903508

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In order to develop an efficient quantitative analysis method for plasticizers in waste cotton, an ultrasound-assisted solid phase extraction gas chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (UE-SPE-GC/MS) method was established to simultaneously analyze 18 types of phthalates in waste cotton, using qualitative and quantitative analysis of formate and 5 adipate plasticizers. Using n-hexane-dichloromethane (volume ratio 4∶1) as the extractant, the extract was purified with an Alumina-N solid phase extraction column, using selective ion scanning mode and external standard method for qua.pngication. The results showed that 20 plasticizers demonstrate a good linear relationship in the concentration range of 1-20 μg/mL, DIHP, DINP and DIDP in the concentration range of 5-100 μg/mL), with the correlation coefficient being 0.990 7-0.999 6.The detection limit it is 0.084-1.748 μg/g, and the limit of qua.pngication is 0.336-6.992 μg/g. At the spiked levels of 5, 10 and 20 μg/mL, the recoveries of the 23 plasticizers were between 83.3%-104.3%, and the intraday and interday relative standard deviations were 1.9%-8.1% and 1.6%-8.7%, respectively, meeting the requirements of testing. The UE-SPE-GC/MS method is simple to operate and has little interference. It can accurately detect trace residues of phthalate and adipate plasticizers in waste cotton.

Apparel Engineering

Virtual display of cheongsam based on modularization

JIANG Hongxia, HUANG Zhiwei, LIU Jihong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  138-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200900105

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Online cheongsam stores cannot achieve the same experience effect as buying cheongsam in physical ones, and at the same time, the similar fashion style also weakens people's wishes to buy cheongsam. In order to solve such problems, we chose virtual model to try cheongsam on and modular design methods to design cheongsam patterns. We selected a round and curvy-fly cheongsam as an example for research, made cheongsam patterns by ET clothing CAD software, and modularized some main patterns, such as collar, fly, sleeve and sweep. We tried to facilitate the virtual and personalized display of the cheongsam by using a modular function. The virtual model was established and adjusted according to 160/84A female body sizes listed in the Chinese size system. Finally, we shrank and stretched the cheongsam virtually to cope with some craft details, simulated the cheongsam try-on effect by the three-dimensional virtual clothing display software (CLO3D). Practical fitting tests show effectiveness of the virtual cheongsam fits.

Objective evaluation of woven garment bagging performance by laser measurement

ZHENG Xiaoping, LIU Chengxia

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  143-149.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200906407

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To study the objective evaluation of woven garment bagging behavior caused through daily wear, 20 pieces of fabrics were made into pant-tubes for actual wearing and bagging. A camera and a 3-D laser scanner were used to acquire images and point cloud data of fabrics respectively. Then feature extraction was performed on the processed data to get the 3-D indexes: bagging height, bagging volume, warp and weft maximum bagging rate. At the same time, the 2-D gray level co-occurrence matrix indexes were extracted from the bagging image to compare with the 3-D indexes. 12 pieces of fabrics were used for verification. The results showed that the highest coefficient of correlation with subjective grade is the bagging volume. The warp and weft maximum bagging rate has good correlation with the degree of bagging and the difference can be used to judge the bagging shape. The 3-D indexes obtained by 3-D laser scanning are more accurate than the 2-D indexes because it can overcome the influence of fabric pattern and fabric structure.

Development of electric-heating protective gloves and ergonomic experiments under extreme cold environment

WANG Lu, HAN Xue, LOU Lin, HE Linghua, ZHOU Xiaohong

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  150-154.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200805306

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In order to study the function of electrically heated gloves in extremely cold environments, electric-heating protective gloves were developed for resisting extreme cold. The electric-heating material was fabricated with metal fiber and carbon nanotube film. Infrared thermal imaging camera was used to conduct experiments of the electric-heating protective gloves, and a human ergonomic experiment was carried out through screw-and-nut assembly operations in an extremely cold environment of -30 ℃. At the same time, the subjective evaluation of heat and pain was recorded. The results show that electric-heating protective gloves made from both metal fiber and carbon nanotube film demonstrate good heating performance, and can both be heated up to the highest designed temperature in 60 s at room temperature. In the extremely cold environment of -30 ℃, both electric-heating protective gloves can increase the number of screws to be screwed within the specified time, indicating work efficiency improvement. Based on the subjective evaluation of heat and pain, electric-heating protective gloves have a significant effect on resisting cold.

Perceptual evaluation of men's suit style elements based on Quantitative Theory I

LI Qianwen, WANG Jianping, YANG Yalan, ZHANG Bingjie, LI Zhilin

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  155-161.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200901507

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In order to obtain clothing products that are more in line with people's emotional needs and help companies better understand the perceptual psychology of consumers, a clothing style perceptual evaluation program based on quantitative theory I is proposed taking the classic category of clothing-men's suits as an example. The semantic difference method was used to obtain the user's perceptual evaluation of the male suit samples, and a two-dimensional space of the male suit perceptual image was established. By analyzing the style characteristics of the male suit samples, the style details and design elements were extracted, that have a key influence on the perceptual image. Finally, qua.pngication theory I was applied to construct a correlation model between perceptual factors and style design elements. The verification shows that the regression model has high prediction accuracy and conforms to the normal distribution. Further case verification shows that the model can transform people's perceptual needs with the design elements of men's suit styles, and can be effectively used for the perceptual evaluation of men's suit styles.

Evaluation modelling for maturity in intelligent manufacturing for multi-type clothing factories

DU Jinsong, YU Yayun, ZHAO Ni, XIE Ziang, FEI Zhonghua, PAN Jingshu

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  162-167.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200801906

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In order to regulate the intelligent manufacturing for factories making different types of clothing, 5 first-level indicators, 12 second-level indicators and 35 third-level evaluation indexing elements were used to construct the maturity evaluation model for intelligent manufacturing capacity, based on the multi-dimensional Analytic Network Process (ANP). Expert questionnaire was used to determine the weight relationship of the evaluation model indicators, and the ANP evaluation indicator modeling was carried out with the help of the Super Decision software. The newly constructed capability maturity evaluation model and the general model were compared and verified on the maturity of intelligent construction capabilities of different types of clothing enterprises. The results show that the newly constructed evaluation model can fully reflect the current status of the development of intelligent manufacturing in the clothing industry and can accurately reflects the overall development level of the enterprise's intelligent manufacturing with the construction of individual indicators. It can also help the enterprise to develop the application technology.

Comprehensive Review

Research progress of flexible strain sensors based on conductive composite fibers

TANG Jian, YAN Tao, PAN Zhijuan

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  168-177.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200402510

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In order to promote the application of conductive composite fibers in the field of flexible strain sensors, the fabricating methods from the combination of the conductive material and the flexible matrix are reviewed. The flexible strain sensors are divided into 3 types, i.e. the conductive material/flexible matrix uniform composite fibers, the flexible fiber coated with a conductive material, and coated the conductive fibers using a flexible matrix. On this basis, the performance of these 3 types of conductive composite fiber sensors are compared and analyzed, and the sensing performance of various conductive networks are summarized. It is found that the strain property and sensitivity of the sensors are determined by the deformation behavior of fibers and the piezoresistive effect of the conductive network, that the interface interaction between the conductive material and the flexible matrix is the key factor to affect the stability and durability of the sensor, and that the fiber and fiber assembly with composite structures and multiple conducting network structures are conductive to the development of high-performance sensor. The application and development trend of conductive fiber flexible strain sensor are described, and the future research directions are put forward.

Research progress of medical barbed sutures

SU Mengru, ZOU Ting, CHEN Qichao, LI Chaojing, WANG Fujun, WANG Lu

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  178-184.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200501408

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In order to further study the barbed suture and promote the development of better products, the research status of barbed sutures at home and abroad was reviewed. This paper traces the development history of the barbed sutures and summarises the performance requirements in clinicians' practice based on the art-of-the-state. Detailed analyses were carried out on the materials used for the barbed sutures, the geometry and arrangement of the barb, the structure of the blocked element, and related new research progress for the sutures. Four types of preparation methods for the barbed sutures are reviewed, including mechanical cutting, laser cutting, mold injection, and external fixed barbs. The application and clinical results of the barbed sutures in plastic surgery, orthopedics, urology, gastroenterology, obstetrics-gynecology and other surgical operations are summarized. Clinical complications of barbed sutures with excellent properties are also examined, the development directions of the barbed sutures in materials, preparation and properties are pointed out for future work.

Research progress of three-dimensional needle-punching technology

CHEN Xiaoming, LI Chenyang, LI Jiao, XIE Junbo, ZHANG Yifan, CHEN Li

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  185-192.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200503408

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The three-dimensional (3-D) needle punching technology leads to low-cost formation of three-dimensional fabrics. In order to better understand the research status of 3-D needle punching technology, the latest domestic and foreign research progress of 3-D needle punching automation equipment technology, 3-D needle punching fabric (or preform) and 3-D needle punching composite materials are reviewed. This review concentrates mainly on the needle punching automatic forming equipment technology suitable for special-shaped fabrics, including the needle punching forming equipment for rotating preforms and free-form surface preforms. The existing needle technology and the new structures of three-dimensional needled fabrics, including multiple component hybrid needled fabrics, needled/stitched coupled needle-punched fabrics, contoured needld fabrics and gradient needled fabrics are summarized, and the experimental characterization, theoretical analysis and numerical simulation research progress of three-dimensional needled composites are also analyzed. Finally, the current development level and challenges of 3-D needle punching technology are discussed, and the future development trend of 3-D needle punching technology is prospected.

Progress in ecological flame retardant technology for textiles

LUO Xiaolei, LI Ziyan, MA Ya'nan, LIU Lin, KRUCINSKA Izabella, YAO Juming

Journal of Textile Research. 2021, 42(05):  193-202.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20200803810

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With the increasingly stringent environmental regulations worldwide and the progress of sustainable development, the ecologicalization of textile flame retardant technology is imminent, and the development and application of ecological flame retardant technology and environmentally friendly flame retardants are the key. In order to promote the development of ecological textile flame-retardant technology and flame-retardant textiles, the conventional flame-retardant performance construction methods and the ecological improvement research progress in the current textile processing and molding process are summarized based on the existing achievements.The review covers spinning, weaving and finishing. At the same time, the research and application progress of new ecological flame retardant finishing technology are described. Furthermore, the promising environmentally friendly flame retardant, biomass flame retardant, its types and the research progress in textile ecological flame retardant technology are introduced. Finally, it is pointed out that the key to promote its industrial application is to solve by interdisciplinary efforts the two bottleneck problems, i.e. operational complexity and high cost.