Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (05): 143-149.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200906407

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Objective evaluation of woven garment bagging performance by laser measurement

ZHENG Xiaoping1, LIU Chengxia1,2()   

  1. 1. School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    2. Zhejiang Province Engineering Laboratory of Clothing Digital Technology, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2020-09-24 Revised:2021-02-21 Online:2021-05-15 Published:2021-05-20
  • Contact: LIU Chengxia E-mail:glorior_liu@163.com

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Abstract:

To study the objective evaluation of woven garment bagging behavior caused through daily wear, 20 pieces of fabrics were made into pant-tubes for actual wearing and bagging. A camera and a 3-D laser scanner were used to acquire images and point cloud data of fabrics respectively. Then feature extraction was performed on the processed data to get the 3-D indexes: bagging height, bagging volume, warp and weft maximum bagging rate. At the same time, the 2-D gray level co-occurrence matrix indexes were extracted from the bagging image to compare with the 3-D indexes. 12 pieces of fabrics were used for verification. The results showed that the highest coefficient of correlation with subjective grade is the bagging volume. The warp and weft maximum bagging rate has good correlation with the degree of bagging and the difference can be used to judge the bagging shape. The 3-D indexes obtained by 3-D laser scanning are more accurate than the 2-D indexes because it can overcome the influence of fabric pattern and fabric structure.

Key words: garment bagging, 3-D laser scanning, maximum bagging rate, feature extraction, objective evaluation

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.2

Tab.1

Fabric specification parameters"

试样
编号		 面料成分 组织 密度/
(根·(10 cm)-1)		 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 厚度/
mm
经向 纬向
1# 涤/棉(65/35) 平纹 250 320 101 0.24
2# 涤/氨纶(95/5) 平纹 320 150 200 0.17
3# 涤/粘胶(70/30) 斜纹 380 240 148 0.35
4# 涤100% 平纹 230 180 112 0.39
5# 涤100% 平纹 380 170 103 0.36
6# 棉100% 平纹 560 300 94 0.42
7# 棉100% 斜纹 800 200 172 0.70
8# 涤100% 平纹 200 300 110 0.45
9# 棉100% 斜纹 600 360 221 0.79
10# 棉100% 平纹 270 210 97 0.40
11# 涤/粘胶(70/30) 平纹 600 370 193 0.20
12# 涤/氨纶(96/4) 斜纹 360 180 103 0.36
13# 涤/粘胶(75/25) 平纹 380 130 188 0.65
14# 棉/亚麻(65/35) 平纹 250 350 194 0.47
15# 涤/棉(65/35) 平纹 380 270 88 0.16
16# 涤/棉(65/35) 平纹 250 300 165 0.43
17# 棉100% 斜纹 480 300 147 1.15
18# 棉100% 缎纹 350 200 202 0.82
19# 涤100% 平纹 320 180 153 0.47
20# 棉100% 平纹 200 250 160 0.27

Fig.1

Sample of pants used in experiment. (a) Front part; (b) Back part"

Tab.2

Figure data of the wearer and sample size of the pants-tube"

被试者腿型数据/cm 裤筒样板尺寸/cm
大腿围 膝围 小腿围 上筒围 中裆围 下筒围
45 36 33 48 44 42

Fig.2

Alignment of XY plane. (a) Spatial coordinate of scanned data; (b) Spatial coordinate of GS; (c) Spatial coordinate after alignment"

Fig.3

Acquisition of bagging height. (a) Diagram of bagging height; (b) Extremum of scatter diagram"

Fig.4

Bagging shape under actual wear. (a) Longitudinal ellipse; (b) Transverse ellipse; (c) Cross-section of longitudinal ellipse; (d) Cross-section of transverse ellipse"

Fig.5

Objects of subjective evaluation. (a) Image of fabric; (b) 3-D reconstruction of fabric"

Fig.6

Drape coefficient of fabric"

Tab.3

3-D feature index based on laser scanning"

试样
编号		 起拱高度/
cm		 起拱体积/
cm3		 经向最大
起拱率		 纬向最大
起拱率		 起拱
等级
1# 0.222 2 5.784 4 1.000 4 1.000 7 5
2# 0.537 7 18.361 3 1.002 9 1.003 9 5
3# 0.950 6 51.879 6 1.004 5 1.002 9 4
4# 1.277 9 75.331 5 1.011 2 1.007 4 3
5# 1.733 2 95.181 4 1.021 0 1.019 8 4
6# 2.938 2 285.283 3 1.091 4 1.074 4 1
7# 1.911 7 103.309 7 1.020 2 1.018 1 3
8# 0.696 7 20.582 5 1.001 9 1.004 4 5
9# 2.744 5 250.211 2 1.065 8 1.042 8 1
10# 1.920 5 143.982 4 1.025 4 1.022 5 2
11# 1.479 8 99.094 2 1.012 6 1.006 3 3
12# 1.501 4 87.075 9 1.031 1 1.019 6 3
13# 1.144 6 61.597 9 1.011 1 1.007 6 4
14# 1.875 6 151.766 6 1.035 6 1.020 9 2
15# 2.145 2 180.440 5 1.039 1 1.026 7 1
16# 2.147 8 149.781 9 1.038 4 1.024 2 2
17# 2.409 6 155.917 0 1.060 3 1.037 3 2
18# 0.942 8 48.401 2 1.007 8 1.005 2 4
19# 1.031 2 44.092 9 1.010 2 1.010 4 4
20# 0.338 0 7.351 5 1.001 2 1.003 3 5

Fig.7

Correlation coefficients between 3-D index and bagging grade"

Tab.4

Gray-level co-occurrence matrix parameter of bagging image"

试样编号 能量REne 熵REnt 惯性矩RCon 相关性RCor 起拱等级
均值M1 标准差σ1 均值M2 标准差σ2 均值M3 标准差σ3 均值M4 标准差σ4
1# 0.860 0 0.006 6 0.366 3 0.018 0 0.035 5 0.007 2 12.269 3 1.179 1 5
2# 0.387 8 0.013 3 0.341 9 0.025 1 0.119 4 0.022 3 2.214 1 0.071 1 5
3# 0.235 1 0.014 2 1.744 1 0.046 4 0.171 5 0.031 1 1.272 3 0.032 9 4
4# 0.517 4 0.015 3 1.517 4 0.055 0 0.105 8 0.022 3 3.060 5 0.165 7 3
5# 0.242 2 0.017 8 1.793 3 0.037 7 0.220 7 0.046 8 1.341 9 0.062 9 4
6# 0.190 2 0.020 6 2.023 9 0.108 2 0.510 9 0.094 7 0.865 4 0.024 5 1
7# 0.264 5 0.016 9 1.694 5 0.073 9 0.183 3 0.045 2 1.441 0 0.065 6 3
8# 0.289 8 0.011 1 1.068 9 0.033 6 0.387 8 0.045 0 1.286 3 0.164 8 5
9# 0.301 3 0.022 0 2.499 6 0.120 7 0.423 3 0.027 5 1.706 0 0.053 7 1
10# 0.189 5 0.019 4 2.210 1 0.117 6 0.332 5 0.091 9 0.789 1 0.041 4 2
11# 0.290 9 0.018 9 1.576 5 0.076 5 0.171 7 0.040 3 1.690 6 0.084 8 3
12# 0.205 1 0.017 1 2.100 6 0.108 7 0.266 7 0.053 3 0.824 5 0.042 6 3
13# 0.267 8 0.012 6 1.683 1 0.069 3 0.241 2 0.043 9 1.589 4 0.101 2 4
14# 0.098 3 0.015 9 2.169 9 0.102 3 0.207 9 0.172 9 0.476 0 0.027 1 2
15# 0.120 4 0.011 3 2.475 7 0.180 7 0.265 8 0.073 3 0.441 6 0.008 7 1
16# 0.168 1 0.013 2 2.236 6 0.087 8 0.237 4 0.058 2 0.601 4 0.012 7 2
17# 0.065 8 0.013 4 2.109 5 0.103 9 0.271 6 0.084 5 0.619 1 0.023 2 2
18# 0.189 1 0.012 0 2.087 8 0.053 2 0.122 7 0.057 2 1.000 8 0.060 2 4
19# 0.388 3 0.011 2 1.290 8 0.043 5 0.102 7 0.018 4 2.196 3 0.058 6 4
20# 0.370 1 0.016 5 0.723 8 0.035 8 0.101 6 0.024 6 2.395 1 0.088 1 5

Fig.8

Correlation coefficients between 2-D index and bagging grade"

Tab.5

Objective indexes and bagging grade of woven fabric used for verification"

试样编号 三维 熵的标准差 三维预测等级 二维预测等级 四舍五入后的预测等级 主观评价等级
起拱体积/cm3 纬向起拱率 三维 二维
1# 6.914 54 1.000 04 0.006 13 4.85 5.25 5 5 5
2# 14.654 49 1.007 29 0.028 82 4.94 4.55 5 5 5
3# 27.859 26 1.000 86 0.060 44 4.35 3.59 4 4 4
4# 52.426 44 1.003 96 0.045 78 3.84 4.04 4 4 4
5# 235.195 68 1.052 03 0.141 84 1.13 1.11 1 1 1
6# 66.745 23 1.006 40 0.025 89 3.58 4.64 4 5 4
7# 11.829 44 1.000 34 0.027 52 4.73 4.59 5 5 5
8# 179.067 32 1.037 95 0.096 61 1.99 2.49 2 2 2
9# 105.309 20 1.022 67 0.076 30 3.25 3.11 3 3 3
10# 78.113 33 1.016 08 0.023 44 3.68 4.72 4 5 4
11# 194.780 77 1.028 48 0.114 47 1.20 1.94 1 2 2
12# 120.195 07 1.031 30 0.084 55 3.22 2.86 3 3 3
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