Journal of Textile Research ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (08): 140-146.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210704607

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Pattern design of inner rotation styles based on fitted two-piece sleeve

LU Hong1,2(), SONG Jiayi1, LI Yuanyuan1, TENG Junfeng3   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    3. Shanghai Taoteng Clothing Co., Ltd., Shanghai 201612, China
  • Received:2021-07-15 Revised:2022-05-16 Online:2022-08-15 Published:2022-08-24

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Abstract:

Aiming at exploring the forming mechanism and influencing factors of the internal rotation structure of two-piece sleeve and enhancing its mobility and function, three methods were proposed from the draping perspective which are the parting line shifting method, sleeve midline deflection method and sleeve midline rotation method. The value range of each variable for the three methods was determined through the univariate analysis by adopting the 3-D virtual fitting technique. The sleeve pattern of 16 samples from orthogonal experiment were designed for virtual fitting and actual sample making. Subjective and objective evaluation results were analyzed by the established evaluation system. The results show that the influence of each variable on the inner rotation angle was sleeve midline rotation, parting line shifting and sleeve midline deflection in turn. Combined with dynamic and static indicators, as well as the subjective and objective evaluation data analysis, the sleeve sample with variable combination of parting line shifting 0.5 cm, midline deflection 2 cm and midline shifting 1 cm results in the best aesthetics and comfort results.

Key words: fitted two-piece sleeve, inner rotation style, pattern design, angle of inner rotation, 3-D virtual fitting, draping cutting

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.17

Fig.1

Three kinds of posture of human arm"

Fig.2

Inner rotation s leeve(a) and regular sleeve(b)"

Fig.3

Diagram of parting line shifting method. (a)Sleeve pattern;(b)Top sleeve transfer"

Fig.4

Diagram of sleeve midline deflection method"

Fig.5

Diagram of sleeve midline rotation method. (a)Sleeve pattern;(b)Under sleeve transfer; (c)Under sleeve"

Fig.6

Diagram of inner rotation angle"

Tab.1

Orthogonal test factor level table"

水平 A
分割线借量/cm		 B
袖中线偏移量/cm		 C
袖中线旋转量/cm
1 0 1 0
2 0.5 2 1
3 1 3 2
4 1.5 4 3

Tab.2

Orthogonal test combination and sample data list"

样衣
编号		 分割
线借量/cm		 袖中线偏
移量/cm		 袖中线旋
转量/cm		 前袖偏
量/cm		 后袖偏
量/cm		 前袖弯拔
量/cm		 后袖肘归
量/cm		 内旋夹角/
(°)
Z1 1 2 3 1.67 2.77 0.80 0.30 62.98
Z2 0.5 3 0 2.51 1.72 0.79 0.75 57.34
Z3 0 2 2 1.76 2.61 0.51 0.65 59.34
Z4 0.5 4 2 0.84 3.63 0.59 0.83 62.32
Z5 0 4 1 1.01 3.47 0.30 0.90 59.28
Z6 1.5 1 2 2.21 2.16 0.96 0.56 61.03
Z7 1.5 4 3 0.68 3.72 0.50 0.96 64.86
Z8 1.5 3 1 1.47 2.99 0.79 0.77 61.98
Z9 1 3 2 1.31 3.12 0.68 0.79 60.34
Z10 1 4 0 1.14 3.33 0.68 0.87 58.14
Z11 0.5 1 3 2.02 2.29 0.87 0.64 62.84
Z12 1 1 1 2.38 2.03 0.77 0.52 57.96
Z13 0 1 0 2.51 1.72 0.78 0.35 51.53
Z14 1.5 2 0 2.06 2.38 0.93 0.62 57.28
Z15 0.5 2 1 1.92 2.51 0.93 0.68 58.37
Z16 0 3 3 1.13 3.24 0.31 0.86 62.54

Fig.7

Pattern design"

Tab.3

Test of integrant effect"

项目 平方和 自由度 均方 F 显著性
校正的模型 147.300① 9 16.367 13.226 0.003
截距 57 375.819 1 57 375.819 46 366.562 0.000
A 20.044 3 6.681 5.399 0.039
B 18.334 3 6.111 4.939 0.046
C 108.922 3 36.307 29.341 0.001
误差 7.425 6 1.237
总计 57 530.544 16
校正后的
总变异		 154.725 15

Fig.8

Static aesthetic evaluation line chart"

Fig.9

Subjective evaluation area"

Tab.4

Score mean value of dynamic comfort index"

样衣
编号		 R区 S区 T区 W区 侧举
45°		 前举
90°		 写字
姿势		 总和
Z1 3.50 3.50 4.17 3.83 3.83 2.67 3.50 25.00
Z2 4.50 4.83 4.67 4.50 4.17 3.33 4.33 30.33
Z3 3.83 4.50 4.50 4.00 4.17 3.00 3.67 27.67
Z4 3.83 4.50 4.67 3.67 3.83 2.83 3.67 27.00
Z5 4.33 4.67 5.00 4.17 4.00 3.17 3.50 28.83
Z6 3.83 4.67 4.83 4.17 4.33 3.33 3.67 28.83
Z7 3.00 3.33 4.17 3.50 3.67 2.67 3.00 23.33
Z8 4.83 4.33 4.67 4.67 4.33 3.17 3.83 29.83
Z9 3.83 4.67 4.83 3.83 4.17 2.83 3.67 27.83
Z10 4.83 4.50 4.50 4.00 4.00 3.50 4.33 29.67
Z11 3.67 3.67 4.67 3.67 3.83 2.83 3.67 26.00
Z12 4.50 4.33 4.67 4.33 4.50 3.33 4.17 29.83
Z13 4.67 4.67 4.67 4.33 4.17 3.17 4.17 29.83
Z14 4.67 4.83 4.67 4.83 4.50 3.33 4.00 30.83
Z15 4.67 4.67 4.83 4.83 4.50 3.17 4.00 30.67
Z16 3.50 3.83 4.00 3.67 3.83 2.83 3.17 24.83

Fig.10

Garment appearance of Z15 sample. (a)Front;(b)Side;(c)Back"

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