Journal of Textile Research ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (09): 175-181.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210806507

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Automatic pattern-making of Chinese wedding dress based on AutoCAD parameterization

ZHOU Yanhong1, JIANG Hongxia2(), CHEN Ling1   

  1. 1. College of Textiles and Clothing, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. College of Design, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2021-08-16 Revised:2022-06-19 Online:2022-09-15 Published:2022-09-26
  • Contact: JIANG Hongxia E-mail:jhx@jiangnan.edu.cn

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Abstract:

In view of the cumbersome process of drawing traditional Chinese wedding dress patterns and the lack of relevance in structural design, three Chinese wedding dresses, namely dragon and phoenix gown, Xiuhe gown and Malay gown, were selected as the research objects, and the patterns were quickly generated by combining the parametric function into the use of AutoCAD. The single and double arcs were used to fit the pattern structure curve and the dragon and phoenix gown structure design model was built through the parameterization function of AutoCAD, which mainly includes the setting the constraints of each object of the body prototype, the initial size of the prototype and the amount of parameter adjustment. The parameter values were readjusted according to the style characteristics of Xiuhe gown and Malay gown before the automatic generation of the patterns for changing gown styles. The CLO3D software was used to virtual display the effect of ready-to-wear. The research results show that by analyzing the similarity of the three Chinese wedding dress structures, the Chinese wedding dress patterns can be automatically generated using one as the prototype and the others as variants, and a series of style wedding dresses can be derived to meet the diversity of Chinese wedding dress structural changes.

Key words: AutoCAD parameterization, Chinese wedding dress, pattern making, automatic generation of pattern, virtual display

CLC Number: 

  • TS195.644

Tab.1

Comparison of styles and structures of three Chinese wedding dresses"

嫁衣款式 领与门襟 衣袖 腰身 裙型
龙凤褂 立领、对襟 七分袖、袖口偏窄 收腰 直筒裙或紧身小A型长裙
秀禾服 立领或圆领、对襟或斜襟 长袖、袖口宽大或呈喇叭型 收少量或者不收省 马面裙、散开的裙摆
马来褂 立领、对襟 长袖、袖型呈喇叭型 收腰 马面裙、A型摆

Fig.1

Model establishment of upper garment"

Fig.2

Arc line of front (a) and rear (b) collar fossa"

Tab.2

Key constraints on body prototyping"

约束对象 参数名称 表达式
B10B15 背宽 (净胸围(B)+背凸量)/8+74-背凸量/25
B1B14 背长 0.2×身高+60
F8⊥F3F4 胸上长 (B+丰胸量)/5+83+袖窿深增量-丰胸量/10
F12F13 胸宽 B/8+62
F9F11 袖窿宽线长 (袖窿深-横背宽线位置Y)/2-2
B1B15 袖窿深 B/10+123+袖窿深增量
F10F13 身宽前 胸宽+袖窿宽/2+袖窿宽位置X
B11B15 身宽后 背宽+袖窿宽/2
∠F4F3F5 肩斜度前1 22+肩斜度调整量前
90°-∠B2B3B8 肩斜度后2 18+肩斜度调整量后
B 1 6B6 肩胛省省
尖点位置X		 背宽/2+10
F7F9 胸省量 (B+丰胸量)/10+(B+丰胸量)/120-56+丰胸量/40
F1F2 领窝宽前 B/24+34
B1B2 领窝宽后 领窝宽前+2
F2F3 领窝深前 领窝宽前+5
B2B3 领窝深后 领窝宽后/3
A2A4 前袖山斜线 前裙窿弧线FAH-(B-840)/20
A1A2 后袖山斜线 后裙窿弧线BAH+9+(B-840)/100
A2A5 袖山高 裙窿弧长AH/5+62
A2A8 原型袖长 0.3×身高+45
C2C3 前立领长 112.358 7
C1C2 后立领长 78.531 6
C1C5 立领高 45
C3C4 起翘 15°

Tab.3

Key parameters settingmm"

项目 含义 表达式(取值) 取值
原型初
数据		 身高 1 600 1 600
净胸围(B) 840 840
净腰围(W) 680 680
净臀围(H1) 880 880
腰围放松量 60 60
臀围放松量 40 40
胸围 B+丰胸量+胸围放松量 980
腰围 W+腰围放松量 740
臀围 H1+臀围放松量 940
胸围放松量 120+背凸量 140
参数调
整量		 丰胸量 0 0
肩斜度调整量前 0 0
肩斜度调整量后 0 0
背凸量 20 20
胸省省尖点位置Y调节量 0 0
衣长增量 135 135
袖窿深增量 0 0
袖长变量 52.5 52.5
裙长变量 0 0
间距 30 30

Fig.3

Model establishment between garment body and sleeve"

Fig.4

Model establishment between body and collar. (a) Stitching of front and rear collar fossa;(b)Standing collar model construction diagram"

Fig.5

Automatic generation of dragon and phoenix gown pattern. (a) Local geometric constraint diagram of front slice; (b) Pattern structure of dragon and phoenix gown"

Fig.6

Process of skirt pattern correction. (a) Expanding pattern adjustment diagram;(b) Finally generate pattern"

Tab.4

Style change parameter setting"

参数 表达式或取值范围 取值
龙凤褂 秀禾服 马来褂
衣长/mm 背长+衣长增量(135) 515 515 515
身宽/mm (B+胸围放松量)/2+丰胸量(0)/2 490 490 490
上衣腰围总省量/mm 胸围-腰围-腰部调节量(0) 180 120 180
袖长/mm 0.7原型袖长+袖长变量(52.5) 420 500 480
立领高/mm 35 ≤ X ≤ 55 45 45 45
裙长/mm 970+腰头宽(30) 1 000 1 000 1 000
腰围起翘角/(°) 8≤β≤ 45 8 45 10
裙腰围/mm (W+腰围放松量(60)+缩缝量(10))/4 187.5 187.5 187.5

Fig.7

Pattern variation generation diagram. (a) Xiuhe gown pattern;(b) Malay gown pattern"

Fig.8

Virtual renderings of Chinese wedding dresses. (a) Dragon and phoenix gown;(b) Xiuhe gown; (c) Malay gown"

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