Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (12): 76-80.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210306705

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Structural design and implementation of warp-knitted fully-formed neck sleeves

ZOU Ya'nan1, XIA Fenglin1(), DONG Zhijia1, HUANG Mengting1, CHU Kaiyuan2   

  1. 1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. Jiangsu Huayi Knitting Co., Ltd., Wuxi, Jiangsu 214253, China
  • Received:2021-03-17 Revised:2021-08-26 Online:2021-12-15 Published:2021-12-29
  • Contact: XIA Fenglin E-mail:xiafl_622@163.com

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Abstract:

Aiming at the current problems of knitted neck sleeves with simple styles and the necessity for multiple cutting and sewing, resulting in cutting loss, this research developed a technique for fully-formed stylish neck sleeves by warp-knitted based on the data analysis of the human head and neck sizes. The basic pattern structure was determined followed by the design of the wearing part and the structure on the pattern. A double-layer structure with openings for the mouth and nose areas was designed and manufactured through the jacquard variable organization positioning design assisted by a CAD system, leading to creation of the process template and the fabric structure simulation platform. Style 3D software was used to carry out the three-dimensional geometrical modeling and virtual display of the warp-knitted fully-formed neck sleeves. The results show that the one-piece double-layer structure is able to be realized using the jacquard technique. Through the two-dimensional simulation and three-dimensional virtual display of the warp-knitted fully-formed fabric, the wearing effect of the developed neck sleeve can be quickly previewed and reviewed to achieve rapid development of new warp-knitted fully-formed products.

Key words: warp-knitted, fully-formed neck sleeve, double-layer structure, two-dimensional simulation, three-dimensional virtual display

CLC Number: 

  • TS184.5

Fig.1

Schematic diagram of head and neck"

Tab.1

Fabric specification parametersmm"

部位
编号		 男 女
平均值 标准差 平均值 标准差
1 180 5.05 169 3.59
2 154 5.86 149 5.30
3 36 0.68 35 0.91
4 48 1.20 48 1.70
5 110 10.00 100 10.00
6 116 3.08 113 2.85
7 219 6.29 201 4.61
8 102 4.92 103 3.44
9 51 2.54 48 1.74
10 71 3.70 62 3.20
11 140 40.00 140 40.00
12 52 0.99 54 1.15
13 56 2.16 53 3.03
14 561 15.39 546 16.41

Fig.2

Neck sleeve style drawing"

Fig.3

Schematic diagram of use of neck sleeve"

Fig.4

Function zoning map"

Tab.2

Jacquard organization design in each area"

区域编号 区域定位 主要组织
A 功能区 薄组织、厚组织、网孔组织、前后片连接组织
B 设计区 薄组织、厚组织、网孔组织
C 设计区 薄组织、厚组织、网孔组织
D 自由区 薄组织、厚组织
E 功能区 网孔组织

Fig.5

Jacquard organization design in area A. (a) Jacquard organization;(b) Structure simulation"

Fig.6

Jacquard organization design in area B. (a) Jacquard organization;(b) Structure simulation"

Fig.7

Jacquard organization design in area C. (a) Jacquard organization;(b) Structure simulation"

Fig.8

Jacquard organization design in area D. (a) Jacquard organization;(b) Structure simulation"

Tab.3

Neck sleeve vertical size table"

区域号 纵向尺寸/cm 密度/(横列·cm-1) 横列数
A 6.4 24 154
B 8.5 24 204
C 13.0 24 312
D 7.7 15 92
E 4.3 — 104

Tab.4

Neck sleeve horizontal size table"

区域号 横向尺寸/cm 密度/(针·cm-1) 针数
A 11.0 20.5 226
C 45.0 21.0 944
B 26.2 23.5 616

Fig.9

Fabric simulation diagram"

Tab.5

Simulation attribute setting table"

粒子间距/
mm		 模拟厚度/
mm		 纬向缩
率/%		 经向缩
率/%		 面密度/
(g·m-2)
2 0.2 85 90 270

Fig.10

Neck sleeve simulation diagram. (a) Front; (b) Side; (c) Back"

Tab.6

Machine parameter setting table of warp-knitted full-formed neck sleeve"

花高/
横列		 花宽/
针		 牵拉密度/
(横列·cm-1)		 底梳送经量
(mm·腊克-1)		 贾卡梳送经量/
(mm·腊克-1)
1 400 944 11 780 1 050

Fig.11

Neck sleeve display picture. (a) Front; (b) Side;(c) Back"

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