Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (03): 149-154.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200702107

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Research and application of process modeling of single-piece double-layer knitted garments

ZHAN Biqin, CONG Honglian(), WU Guangjun   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122,China
  • Received:2020-07-08 Revised:2020-12-10 Online:2021-03-15 Published:2021-03-17
  • Contact: CONG Honglian E-mail:cong-wkrc@163.com

Abstract:

In order to explore deeply the complex style structure of single-piece knitted garments and to enrich the models of single-piece knitted garments, the design method and knitting process of four-needle bed single-piece double-layer knitted garments were studied. On the basis of the research of the four-needle bed single-piece single-layer clothing, the prototype pattern of the double-layer clothing structure is designed through analyzing the characteristics of the human body shape, the looseness of the human body and the characteristics of the clothing prototype. A typical double-layer structure upper garment was designed based on the paper pattern, and its layout design, process method and forming principle were analyzed. The results show that in the process of transforming from a single-layer garment to a double-layer garment, the inner and outer layers are formed through an integrated knitting process to form a style model; the connection model has four ways to maintain the body balance: O, X, H and XO, and to ensures the precise adjustment of the size difference between the inner and outer layers; and the detailed model is formed by tuck knitting and partial knitting. According to the knitting process parameters and the structural difference between the inner and outer layers of clothing, a single-piece double-layer clothing suitable for the body curve is created.

Key words: knitting, single-piece garment, knitted garment, four-needle bed, double-layer structure, knitting process

CLC Number: 

  • TS181.8

Fig.1

Double-layer structure style. (a) Double-layer tops; (b) Double-layer bottoms"

Fig.2

Double-layer whole garment body diagram. (a) Upper body structure point; (b) Double-layer whole garment prototype"

Fig.3

Double-layer structure top pattern"

Fig.4

Single tube structure model of outer garment"

Fig.5

2+2 rib weave technology of hem"

Fig.6

Shoulder partial knitting process"

Fig.7

Multi-tube structure model of inner garment"

Fig.8

Knitting technology of open end stitches"

Fig.9

Connection part of double-layer structure"

Fig.10

Other double-layer structure connection model"

Fig.11

Pocket and sleeve elbow edge tuck knitting"

Fig.12

Combined model of double-layer structure of blouse and suspender"

Fig.13

Combined model of double-layer structure of pants and skirt"

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