Journal of Textile Research ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (10): 133-140.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210808508

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Methods for converting 3-D styles to 2-D patterns for fully formed garments

LU Lisha, JIANG Gaoming()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University,Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2021-08-23 Revised:2022-06-22 Online:2022-10-15 Published:2022-10-28
  • Contact: JIANG Gaoming E-mail:jgm@jiangnan.edu.cn

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Abstract:

In order to further understand the knitting principle of whole garments and develop more styles with different shapes, this work investigated the conversion principles from 3-D style to 2-D patterns considering the theory, mathematical model and conversion process. Conversion methods of different types of garments from 3-D style to 2-D patterns were considered based on double-layer structure, three-layer structure and four-layer structure. Taking five typical styles as examples, the 2-D pattern design and knitting practice were carried out using the SDS-ONE APEX3 system and a four-bed computerized flat knitting machine. The results show that the front and back pieces of the 2-D patterns of the garments with double-layer structure are determined by the side seam and the centerline respectively depending on whether the width of the front and back pieces of 3-D style are equal or not. The 2-D pattern of the garments with three-layer structure are to be determined by dividing in the back centerline or armholes, or unfolding on the side seam and placket based on whether the 3-D style contains sleeves. The connecting position of the inner and outer layers of the garments with the four-layer structure should be located at the collar, waist and other special parts.

Key words: fully formed garment, 3-D style, 2-D pattern, conversion method, knitting process

CLC Number: 

  • TS106.6

Fig.1

Sketch of converting 3-D style to 2-D pattern. (a) 3-D style; (b) Front and back pieces on flat machine; (c) 2-D pattern"

Fig.2

Flow chart converting 3-D style to 2-D pattern"

Fig.3

Style types of fully formed garments. (a) Double-layer structure; (b)Three-layer structure; (c) Four-layer structure"

Fig.4

Conversion process from 3-D style with equal width in front and back pieces to 2-D pattern by longitudinal knitting. (a) 3-D style; (b)Front and back pieces on flat machine; (c) 2-D pattern"

Tab.1

Size corresponding relationship between 3-D style with equal width in front and back pieces and 2-D pattern by longitudinal knitting"

参数 符号 三维款式尺寸/cm 二维样板尺寸/线圈数
前片 后片 前片 后片
衣长 L L L L × c/10 L × c/10
胸围 B B/2 B/2 B/2 × w/10 B/2 × w/10
腰围 W W/2 W/2 W/2 × w/10 W/2 × w/10
下摆 H H/2 H/2 H/2 × w/10 H/2 × w/10
袖长 S S S S × c/10 S × c/10
袖口围 C C/2 C/2 C/2 × w/10 C/2 × w/10
后领宽 N — N — N × w/10
前领深 D D — D × c/10 —

Fig.5

Conversion process from 3-D style with equal width in front and back pieces to 2-D pattern by horizontal knitting. (a) Front and back pieces on flat machine; (b) 2-D pattern"

Tab.2

Size corresponding relationship between 3-D style with equal width in front and back pieces and 2-D pattern by horizontal knitting"

参数 符号 三维款式尺寸/
cm		 二维样板尺寸/
线圈数
前片 后片 前片 后片
衣长 L L L (2 × S + B/2)×
c/10		 (2 × S + B/2)×
c/10
胸围 B B/2 B/2 B/2 × c/10 B/2 × c/10
腰围 W W/2 W/2 W/2 × c/10 W/2 × c/10
下摆 H H/2 H/2 H/2 × c/10 H/2 × c/10
袖长 S S S S × c/10 S × c/10
袖口围 C C/2 C/2 C/2 × w/10 C/2 × w/10
后领宽 N — N — N × c/10
前领深 D D — D × w/10 —

Fig.6

Conversion process from 3-D style with unequal width in front and back pieces to 2-D pattern. (a) 3-D style; (b) Front and back pieces on flat machine; (c) 2-D pattern"

Tab.3

Size corresponding relationship between 3-D style with unequal width in front and back pieces and 2-D pattern"

参数 符号 三维款式尺寸/
cm		 二维样板尺寸/
线圈数
前片 后片 前片 后片
衣长 L L L L × c/10 L × c/10
胸围 B B/2+x B/2 (B+x)/2 × w/10 (B+x)/2 × w/10
腰围 W W/2+x W/2 (W+x)/2 × w/10 (W+x)/2 × w/10
下摆 H H/2+x H/2 (H+x)/2 × w/10 (H+x)/2 × w/10
袖窿深 A A A A × c/10 A × c/10
领高 N N N N × c/10 N × c/10

Fig.7

Conversion process from 3-D style without sleeves to 2-D pattern. (a) 3-D style; (b) 2-D pattern 1;(c) 2-D pattern 2; (d) 2-D pattern 3"

Tab.4

Size corresponding relationship between 3-D style without sleeves and 2-D pattern"

参数 符
号		 三维款式
尺寸/cm		 二维样板尺寸/线圈数
前片 后片 方法一 方法二/方法三
前片 后片
衣长 L L L L × c/10 L × c/10 L × c/10
胸围 B B/2 B/2 (B + 2 ×C)×
w/10		 (B/2+2 ×C)×
w/10		 B/2 ×
w/10
腰围 W W/2 W/2 (W +2 × C)×
w/10		 (W/2+2 × C)×
w/10		 W/2 ×
w/10
下摆 H H/2 H/2 H × w/10 H/2 × w/10 H/2 × w/10
翻领宽 C C — — — —

Fig.8

Conversion process from 3-D style with sleeves to 2-D pattern. (a) 3-D style; (b) Separate left and right;(c) Separate body and sleeves; (d) Front and back pieces on flat machine; (e) 2-D pattern of right"

Tab.5

Size corresponding relationship between 3-D style with sleeves and 2-D pattern"

参数 符号 三维款式尺寸/cm 二维样板尺寸/线圈数
前片 后片 前片 后片
衣长 L L L L×c/10 L×c/10
胸围 B B/2 B/2 (B/2+ C) × w/10 B/2 ×
w/10
腰围 W W/2 W/2 (W/2+ C) × w/10 W/2 ×
w/10
下摆 H H/2 H/2 (H/2+ C) × w/10 H/2 ×
w/10
门襟宽 C C C - -
袖长 S S S S × c/10 S × c/10
袖口围 T T T T/2 × w/10 T/2 × w/10
后领宽 N N×w/10 N× w/10
前领深 D D D ×c/10 D D × c/10

Fig.9

Conversion process from 3-D style with four-layer structure to 2-D pattern. (a) 3-D style; (b) Front piece and back piece on flat machine; (c) 2-D pattern"

Tab.6

Size corresponding relationship between 3-D style with four-layer structure and 2-D pattern"

参数 符号 三维款式尺寸/cm 二维样板尺寸/线圈数
前片 后片 前片 后片
衣长 L L L (L+D) × c/10 (L+D)×c/10
胸围 B B/2 B/2 B/2 × w/10 B/2 × w/10
腰围 W W/2 W/2 W/2 × w/10 W/2 × w/10
下摆 H H/2 H/2 H/2 × w/10 H/2 × w/10
翻领宽 T T T T × w/10 T × w/10
翻领高 D D D D × c/10 D × c/10
后领宽 N N N N × w/10 N × w/10

Fig.10

Physical pictures of fully formed garments with different structures. (a) Double-layer structure with equal width in front and back pieces;(b) Double-layer structure with unequal width in front and back pieces;(c) Three-layer structure without sleeves; (d) Three-layer structure with sleeves; (e) Four-layer structure"

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