Journal of Textile Research ›› 2023, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (09): 75-83.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220704401

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Development and performance of dragonfly wing structure like winter knitted fabrics

DING Xueting1,2, WANG Jianping1,2,3(), PAN Ting1,2, YAO Xiaofeng1,2, YUAN Luning1,2   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    3. Shanghai International Institute of Design and Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
  • Received:2022-07-14 Revised:2023-01-12 Online:2023-09-15 Published:2023-10-30

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Abstract:

Objective Warm retention knitted sports underwear has always been a hot winter product, but different from other daily clothing, knitted sports underwear is more likely to accumulate sweat in the process of strenuous exercise, leading to discomfort and negatively affecting athletes' performance. Many knitted fabrics are difficult to ensure the effective export of sweat on the basis of ensuring warmth, so it is necessary to design and develop knitted fabrics to improve the hot and wet comfort of knitted sports underwear.

Method Using graphene yarn of 150 dtex (144 f) as surface yarn, Dryarn® polypropylene yarn/spandex covered yarn (30 dtex/30 dtex ) as inside yarn, 4 knitted fabrics with imitated structural features were developed following the study of macrostructure and microstructure of dragonfly wings, and 1+2 false rib weave knitted fabric was set as control group. Each knitted fabric designed 3 densities with P10, 0 and N10, corresponding to step motor value of 90,100 and 110,respectively. Warmth retention property, air permeability, moisture permeability and liquid water management ability of knitted fabrics were analyzed, and then comprehensively analyzed hot and wet comfort combined with concentrated mapping method and functional value evaluation.

Results All 4 types of bionic knitted fabrics were evaluated for hot and wet performance. Under the same fabric density, the warmth retention of papillary structure fabric was the best (Tab. 2), and under the same bionic structure, the warmth retention property of bionic knitted fabrics was increased with the decrease of density. Under the density 0 and N10, the air permeability of papillary structure fabric performed better (Tab. 3), and under the density P10, the air permeability of quadrilateral structure fabric is the best. Under the same bionic structure, the air permeability of bionic knitted fabrics was improved with the decrease of density. Under the same fabric density, the moisture permeability of hexagonal structure fabric stoodout (Tab. 4), whilst under the same bionic structure, the moisture permeability of bionic knitted fabrics was enhanced with the decrease of density. Under the N10 density, the liquid water management ability of hexagonal structure fabric was the best (Tab. 5), and under the same bionic structure, the liquid water management cap ability of bionic knitted fabrics increased with the decrease of density. The evaluation of the hot and wet comfort of knitted fabrics by a single index was not comprehensive enough, so combining concentrated mapping method and functional evaluation value made a comprehensive evaluation of many related factors, and analysis of the hot and wet comfort performance of knitted fabrics were conducted comprehensively. Under the same bionic structure, the smaller the density of bionic fabrics, the better the comprehensive performance have. At the same density of bionic fabrics, the comprehensive performance of bionic fabrics was better than twill tissue fabric, and at any density, except that the hexagonal structure fabric at P10 density was seen to be inferior to the twill fabric at N10 density, the comprehensive performance of other bionic fabrics was better than twill fabric at any density. For all fabrics, the comprehensive performance of papillary structure was the best with N10 density.

Conclusion By imitating the non-smooth surface texture of dragonfly wings, 4 bionic knitted fabrics are designed with concave and convex texture, which increases the thickness of fabrics and thus improves their warmth preservation, bionic knitted fabrics contact with the human skin to form a microclimate regulation space, the space can store hot air flow emitted by human body to achieve the thermal effect, and the space can improve the fluidity of gas to achieve the effect of rapid perspiration. The 4 types of bionic knitted fabrics demonstrate excellent hot and wet performance, and are suitable for winter knitted sports underwear, providing direction and fabric options for winter knitted sports underwear development.

Key words: biomimetic functional knitted fabric, knitted sports underwear, knitted fabric, dragonfly wing structure, hot and wet comfort, functional value evaluation

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.71

Fig. 1

Macrostructure of dragonfly wings"

Fig. 2

Microstructure of dragonfly wings. (a) Papillary structure; (b) Fold wave morphology"

Fig. 3

Structures of dragonfly wings. (a) Hexagon structure; (b) Quadrilateral structure; (c) Papillary structure; (d) Fold wave structure"

Fig. 4

Knitting pattern grids of knitted fabrics. (a) Hexagonal structure; (b) Fold wave structure; (c) Quadrilateral structure; (d)Papillary structure; (e) 1+2 False rib structure"

Fig. 5

Morphologies of biomimetic knitted fabrics. (a) Hexagonal structure; (b) Quadrilateral structure;(c) Papillary structure; (d) Fold wave structure"

Tab. 1

Specification parameters of knitted fabrics"

织物
编号		 外观
结构		 步进
电动机值		 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 厚度/
mm		 横密 纵密
A11 六边形
结构		 P10 380.4 1.544 117 197
A12 0 374.8 1.551 114 188
A13 N10 367.2 1.560 112 181
A21 四边形
结构		 P10 467.9 2.099 109 179
A22 0 453.6 2.184 106 172
A23 N10 440.2 2.196 103 164
A31 乳突
结构		 P10 473.1 2.839 113 172
A32 0 442.7 2.967 108 164
A33 N10 426.8 3.114 104 159
A41 褶皱波
浪结构		 P10 459.3 2.653 102 167
A42 0 450.8 2.852 100 160
A43 N10 445.2 3.042 97 152
B1 1+2假罗纹
组织		 P10 357.9 1.069 114 188
B2 0 354.4 1.146 110 176
B3 N10 348.1 1.210 94 158

Tab. 2

Test results of warmth retention property of knitted fabrics"

织物
编号		 热阻/
(m2·K·W-1)		 传热系数/
(W·(m2·℃)-1)		 克罗值/
(10-3 clo)		 保温
率/%
A11 34.455 29.050 222.25 37.89
A12 37.490 26.690 241.85 39.89
A13 42.740 23.510 275.70 43.30
A21 47.905 20.875 309.00 45.89
A22 48.535 20.610 313.10 46.21
A23 50.865 19.705 328.10 47.63
A31 56.555 17.685 364.85 50.03
A32 72.210 13.850 465.80 56.11
A33 74.260 13.470 479.00 57.33
A41 53.120 18.820 342.70 48.47
A42 54.200 18.485 349.60 48.95
A43 55.320 18.080 356.90 50.22
B1 21.795 48.915 140.60 27.82
B2 25.580 39.090 165.00 31.81
B3 30.370 32.930 195.90 34.97

Tab. 3

Test results of air permeability of knitted fabrics"

织物编号 透气率/(mm·s-1)
A11 45.616
A12 57.749
A13 70.904
A21 70.680
A22 71.316
A23 74.224
A31 62.588
A32 74.118
A33 78.406
A41 50.602
A42 52.113
A43 62.602
B1 36.327
B2 42.721
B3 51.187

Tab. 4

Test results of moisture permeability of knitted fabrics"

织物编号 透湿率/(g·m-2·(24 h)-1)
A11 730.91
A12 752.20
A13 777.04
A21 640.44
A22 669.43
A23 697.21
A31 677.69
A32 712.85
A33 760.54
A41 716.72
A42 727.37
A43 750.43
B1 693.66
B2 659.95
B3 729.14

Tab. 5

Test results of knitted fabrics liquid water management ability"

织物编号 WTB/s ARB/(%·s-1) R/%
A11 3.77 41.10 248.24
A12 8.86 97.94 359.72
A13 9.37 71.09 460.22
A21 4.33 38.31 301.12
A22 6.20 43.01 341.65
A23 6.34 53.08 387.89
A31 8.17 67.78 199.23
A32 6.77 45.03 243.98
A33 6.63 49.25 303.89
A41 5.18 34.57 197.22
A42 7.77 90.10 231.45
A43 5.78 56.77 277.22
B1 4.39 58.77 312.55
B2 6.18 61.03 337.18
B3 6.26 66.30 373.59

Tab. 6

Evaluation results of liquid water management capability of knitted fabric"

织物
编号		 指标等级
WTB ARB R
A11 4 3 4
A12 3 4 5
A13 3 4 5
A21 4 3 5
A22 3 3 5
A23 3 4 5
A31 3 4 3
A32 3 3 4
A33 3 3 5
A41 4 3 3
A42 3 4 4
A43 4 4 4
B1 4 4 5
B2 3 4 5
B3 3 4 5
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