纺织学报 ›› 2024, Vol. 45 ›› Issue (03): 97-105.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230200201

• 染整工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

颜料与线密度对原液着色涤纶短纤维及纱线颜色的影响

卢韵静1,2, 王雪2, 齐元章3, 宋琳3, 廉志军2, 李鑫4,5()   

  1. 1.东华大学 纺织学院, 上海 201620
    2.中国纺织科学研究院有限公司 生物源纤维制造技术国家重点实验室, 北京 100025
    3.鲁丰织染有限公司, 山东 淄博 255100
    4.中国通用技术(集团)控股有限责任公司, 北京 100161
    5.东华大学 材料科学与工程学院,上海 201620
  • 收稿日期:2023-02-02 修回日期:2023-12-22 出版日期:2024-03-15 发布日期:2024-04-15
  • 通讯作者: 李鑫
  • 作者简介:卢韵静(1994—),女,博士生。主要研究方向为纤维色彩及应用。
  • 基金资助:
    国家重点研发计划项目(2020YFB0311400);国家重点研发计划项目(2016YFB0302800)

Influences of pigment and linear density on spun-dyed polyester staple fiber and yarn

LU Yunjing1,2, WANG Xue2, QI Yuanzhang3, SONG Lin3, LIAN Zhijun2, LI Xin4,5()   

  1. 1. College of Textiles, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
    2. State Key Laboratory of Biobased Fiber Manufacturing Technology, China Textile Academy, Beijing 100025, China
    3. Lufeng Weaving and Dyeing Co., Ltd., Zibo, Shandong 255100, China
    4. China General Technology (Group) Holding Co., Ltd., Beijing 100161, China
    5. College of Materials Science and Engineering, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
  • Received:2023-02-02 Revised:2023-12-22 Published:2024-03-15 Online:2024-04-15
  • Contact: LI Xin

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摘要：

为掌握原液着色涤纶短纤维的颜色对其纱线颜色变化的影响规律,选取红、黄、蓝3种颜色半消光原液着色涤纶短纤维,根据实际生产中主要调整的参数,系统研究了颜料质量分数、纤维线密度对其色度值的影响规律;同时,考察了从纤维到纱线(线密度为20 tex,捻系数为300)的色度值变化,并与特定规格半消光染色短纤维、大有光原液着色短纤维进行对比。结果表明:颜料质量分数显著影响半消光纤维的色度值,在浅、中色之间的差异尤为明显,是中、深色之间的2倍;线密度对纤维色差(ΔECMC(2:1))的影响不大,黄色的色差变化较红色、蓝色更明显;半消光原液着色短纤维到纱线的色度值变化不明显,色差在0.8~2.6 范围内;在半消光染色纤维中,黄色的色差变化偏大,为3.4 ~ 3.9,红色、蓝色与原液着色的色差相当;大有光原液着色涤纶短纤维到纱线的变化与半消光染色短纤维的更为相似,二者的色差ΔECMC(2:1)、明度差ΔL、饱和度差ΔC 以及色调差ΔH 基本相同,说明对于特定的颜色类型,可借鉴染色纱线的配色经验,为原液着色纱线配色模型的系数调整提供支持。

关键词: 涤纶短纤维, 原液着色纤维, 颜料, 线密度, 色度值, 纱线配色

Abstract:

Objective The large-scale application of spun-dyed fiber corresponds to multi-spes and differentiated fiber production. However, a long transition cycle when changing the fiber color type or pigment content generates a large amount of transition material or waste in this process due to the generally large capacity of the device. Therefore, it is necessary to understand the influences of pigment type, content, and fiber linear density on the color of spun-dyed fibers, as well as the color variation from fiber to yarn, so as to guide more effectively the development and application of spun-dyed staple fibers.

Method The influences of pigment content (0.3%, 0.9%, and 1.5%) and fiber linear density (1.56, 2.78, 3.89 dtex and 6.11 dtex) on the chromaticity values of semi-dull spun-dyed polyester staple fibers red, yellow, and blue were systematically investigated. In parallel, the variation of chromaticity values from fiber to yarn (linear density of 20 tex, twist factor of 300) was examined and compared with specific specifications of semi-dull dyed staple fibers and bright spun-dyed staple fibers.

Results The results showed that the variation of pigment content significantly affected the chromaticity values of the semi-dull fibers, especially from light-color fiber to medium-color fiber, which is twice as much as between medium-color fiber and dark-color fiber. The chromatic aberration ΔECMC(2:1) for yellow fibers was 21.8 and 8.4, respectively, which is about three times higher than that for red and blue, mainly because of the contribution of the hue difference ΔH. The influence of fiber linear density variation on ΔECMC(2:1) was not significant, and the higher the linear density, the weaker the effect. Similarly, the ΔECMC(2:1) of yellow was more obvious than the other two colors. When producing products such as yellow, especially fine denier fibers, adjusting the linear density required reconfirming the pigment formulation. In general, the variation of chromaticity values from semi-dull spun-dyed staple fiber to yarn was not significant, with ΔECMC(2:1) in the range of 0.8-2.6. On contrast, the variation of chromaticity values of yellow semi-dull dyed staple fiber to yarn was large, with ΔECMC(2:1) in the range of 3.4-3.9. On further examination, the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1) for dyed fibers was 1.8-6.5 CMC(2:1)/dtex, which was significantly higher than that of spun-dyed fibers. It was also evident that the ΔECMC(2:1) of dyed fibers did not show a significant decrease in the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1) with the increase in the linear density of the spun-dyed fibers. The variation of chromaticity values from bright spun-dyed polyester staple fibers to yarn was similar to that of semi-dull dyed staple fibers, and ΔECMC(2:1), ΔL, ΔC, and ΔH were basically the same meaning that for specific color types, the yarn color matching experience of dyed fibers did serve as a reference.

Conclusion The chromaticity values of semi-dull staple fibers vary greatly with pigment types and content ranges. When the pigment content needs to be changed significantly during the production process, the masterbatch should be reformulated. Different fiber linear density ranges have different influences on the chromaticity values of the fibers, and the normalized results suggested that the smaller the linear density, the greater the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1). Among them, the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1) is most obvious for yellow, which is mainly due to larger ΔH, indicating that the adjustment of linear density requires reconfirmation of the masterbatch formulation when producing products such as yellow, especially fine denier fibers. For conventional linear density of semi-dull spun-dyed fibers, the color variation from fiber to yarn is not obvious. However, when the fiber linear density is small enough, such as ultrafine fibers prepared by composite spinning, this result needs to be re-examined. Overall, the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1) of dyed fibers is significantly higher than that of spun-dyed fibers, mainly due to the different chromophores of dyes and pigments. The color variation from fiber to yarn for the bright spun-dyed fibers is essentially the same as that for the semi-dull dyed fibers, implying that the color variation law from semi-dull dyed fibers to yarn can be utilized to guide the yarn color matching of the bright spun-dyed fibers.

Key words: polyester staple fiber, spun-dyed fiber, pigment, linear density, chromaticity value, yarn color matching

中图分类号: 

  • TS102.522

表1

原液着色涤纶短纤维色度值"

纤维编号 L* C* h* 纤维编号 L* C* h*
SS/1.56/0.3/RD 55.0 47.5 23.6 SS/3.89/1.5/YE 69.5 88.7 76.8
SS/1.56/0.9/RD 44.3 59.5 26.2 SS/6.11/1.5/YE 68.5 86.9 76.1
SS/1.56/1.5/RD 40.3 60.5 27.4 SS/1.56/0.3/BU 41.8 32.4 279.6
SS/2.78/1.5/RD 38.1 60.5 28.2 SS/1.56/0.9/BU 27.7 34.7 285.6
SS/3.89/1.5/RD 37.5 59.9 27.8 SS/1.56/1.5/BU 23.1 32.5 288.0
SS/6.11/1.5/RD 36.6 59.4 27.8 SS/2.78/1.5/BU 20.4 30.6 289.5
SS/1.56/0.3/YE 79.7 82.8 88.7 SS/3.89/1.5/BU 19.6 29.3 290.1
SS/1.56/0.9/YE 75.0 88.8 82.3 SS/6.11/1.5/BU 19.4 28.2 290.5
SS/1.56/1.5/YE 72.1 89.3 79.3 SB/1.56/2.8/RD 36.2 58.6 25.0
SS/2.78/1.5/YE 70.4 89.2 78.0 SB/1.56/0.2/YE 75.4 68.9 82.7

表2

染色涤纶短纤维色度值"

纤维编号 L* C* h* 纤维编号 L* C* h*
SS/0.89/RD/D 41.8 62.9 28.3 SS/1.33/YE/D 73.7 69.7 79.4
SS/1.11/RD/D 40.9 62.3 28.3 SS/1.56/YE/D 73.3 71.4 78.7
SS/1.33/RD/D 40.3 62.1 28.4 SS/0.89/BU/D 48.8 36.2 236.7
SS/1.56/RD/D 39.8 63.2 29.1 SS/1.11/BU/D 47.2 36.3 237.3
SS/0.89/YE/D 75.2 68.4 79.3 SS/1.33/BU/D 46.3 36.3 238.5
SS/1.11/YE/D 74.1 69.2 78.0 SS/1.56/BU/D 44.5 36.3 238.9

表3

涤纶短纤维纱线色度值"

纱线编号 L* C* h* 纱线编号 L* C* h*
Y20/300-SS/1.56/0.3/RD 57.0 47.7 23.1 Y20/310-SB/1.56/2.8/RD 38.0 62.0 25.4
Y20/300-SS/1.56/0.9/RD 46.4 59.9 25.5 Y20/310-SB/1.56/0.2/YE 78.3 72.6 80.2
Y20/300-SS/1.56/1.5/RD 42.8 61.4 27.1 Y10/300-SS/0.89/RD/D 44.0 66.9 28.7
Y20/300-SS/2.78/1.5/RD 41.1 61.3 28.2 Y10/300-SS/1.11/RD/D 43.2 65.3 28.5
Y20/300-SS/3.89/1.5/RD 39.5 61.1 28.6 Y10/300-SS/1.33/RD/D 42.7 66.2 29.1
Y20/300-SS/6.11/1.5/RD 39.1 60.9 28.9 Y10/300-SS/1.56/RD/D 42.3 66.1 29.0
Y20/300-SS/1.56/0.3/YE 81.5 83.9 88.4 Y20/300-SS/1.56/RD/D 42.1 65.8 29.1
Y20/300-SS/1.56/0.9/YE 77.4 90.9 83.0 Y10/300-SS/0.89/YE/D 78.4 73.1 77.8
Y20/300-SS/1.56/1.5/YE 74.8 92.8 79.8 Y10/300-SS/1.11/YE/D 77.4 74.1 78.0
Y20/300-SS/2.78/1.5/YE 71.7 92.6 78.4 Y10/300-SS/1.33/YE/D 77.9 74.6 78.0
Y20/300-SS/3.89/1.5/YE 71.1 91.4 76.8 Y10/300-SS/1.56/YE/D 77.2 75.6 77.5
Y20/300-SS/6.11/1.5/YE 70.6 90.1 76.8 Y20/300-SS/1.56/YE/D 77.0 75.5 77.0
Y20/300-SS/1.56/0.3/BU 43.8 32.4 279.6 Y10/300-SS/0.89/BU/D 50.0 37.1 237.7
Y20/300-SS/1.56/0.9/BU 29.9 36.3 285.2 Y10/300-SS/1.11/BU/D 48.6 37.1 237.7
Y20/300-SS/1.56/1.5/BU 25.5 34.1 288.5 Y10/300-SS/1.33/BU/D 48.3 37.2 238.5
Y20/300-SS/2.78/1.5/BU 23.0 35.4 287.2 Y10/300-SS/1.56/BU/D 46.8 37.5 238.7
Y20/300-SS/3.89/1.5/BU 21.8 34.7 289.7 Y20/300-SS/1.56/BU/D 46.9 36.8 238.7
Y20/300-SS/6.11/1.5/BU 21.9 32.8 288.7

表4

不同颜料质量分数的半消光原液着色短纤维(1.56 dtex)色度值变化"

颜料
类型		 颜料质量
分数/%		 ΔL ΔC ΔH ΔECMC(2:1)
红色 0.3~0.9 -10.7 12.0 2.4 6.9
0.9~1.5 -4.0 1.1 1.2 2.1
黄色 0.3~0.9 -4.7 6.0 -9.5 21.8
0.9~1.5 -2.9 0.6 -4.8 8.4
蓝色 0.3~0.9 -14.1 2.2 3.5 7.8
0.9~1.5 -4.5 -2.2 1.4 3.4

表5

不同线密度的半消光原液着色短纤维(颜料质量分数1.5%)色度值及其色差变化"

颜料
类型		 纤维线
密度/dtex		 ΔL ΔC ΔH ΔECMC(2:1) 色差
变化率
1.56~2.78 -2.2 -0.1 0.8 1.3 1.1
红色 2.78~3.89 -0.7 -0.6 -0.4 0.5 0.5
3.89~6.11 -0.9 -0.4 0.1 0.5 0.2
1.56~2.78 -1.7 -0.1 -1.9 3.1 2.5
黄色 2.78~3.89 -0.9 -0.5 -1.7 1.7 1.5
3.89~6.11 -1.0 -1.7 -1.1 1.1 0.5
1.56~2.78 -2.7 -1.9 0.8 2.3 1.9
蓝色 2.78~3.89 -0.8 -1.3 0.3 1.0 0.9
3.89~6.11 -0.2 -1.1 0.2 0.6 0.3

表6

不同颜料质量分数及线密度半消光原液着色短纤维到纱线(Y20/300)的色度值变化"

纤维样品编号 ΔL ΔC ΔH ΔECMC(2:1)
SS/1.56/0.3/RD 2.1 0.2 -0.5 1.0
SS/1.56/0.9/RD 2.1 0.4 -0.8 1.2
SS/1.56/1.5/RD 2.5 0.9 -0.3 1.3
SS/2.78/1.5/RD 3.0 0.8 0.3 1.6
SS/3.89/1.5/RD 2.0 1.2 0.5 1.2
SS/6.11/1.5/RD 2.5 1.5 0.1 1.5
SS/1.56/0.3/YE 1.8 1.1 -0.4 0.8
SS/1.56/0.9/YE 2.4 2.1 1.0 1.3
SS/1.56/1.5/YE 2.7 3.4 0.8 1.6
SS/2.78/1.5/YE 2.7 5.3 0.7 2.2
SS/3.89/1.5/YE 1.5 4.5 -0.9 2.1
SS/6.11/1.5/YE 2.1 4.2 1.4 2.6
SS/1.56/0.3/BU 2.0 -0.1 0.0 1.0
SS/1.56/0.9/BU 2.3 1.6 -0.3 1.7
SS/1.56/1.5/BU 2.3 1.6 -0.3 1.9
SS/2.78/1.5/BU 2.6 2.0 -0.6 2.3
SS/3.89/1.5/BU 2.2 2.5 0.5 2.2
SS/6.11/1.5/BU 2.5 1.7 -0.5 2.3

表7

不同线密度的半消光染色短纤维色度值及其色差变化"

颜料
类型		 纤维线
密度/dtex		 ΔL ΔC ΔH ΔECMC(2:1) 色差
变化率
0.89~1.11 -0.9 -0.6 0.0 0.5 2.3
红色 1.11~1.33 -0.7 -0.2 0.1 0.4 1.8
1.33~1.56 -0.5 1.1 0.8 0.7 3.0
0.89~1.11 -1.2 0.8 -0.3 0.7 3.2
黄色 1.11~1.33 -0.3 0.6 0.8 1.4 6.4
1.33~1.56 -0.4 1.7 -0.8 1.5 6.5
0.89~1.11 -1.6 0.1 0.4 0.8 3.6
蓝色 1.11~1.33 -0.9 -0.1 0.7 0.7 3.2
1.33~1.56 -1.8 0.1 0.3 0.9 3.9

表8

不同线密度半消光染色短纤维到纱线(Y10/300)的色度值变化"

纤维样品编号 ΔL ΔC ΔH ΔECMC(2:1)
SS/0.89/RD/D 2.2 4.1 0.4 1.8
SS/1.11/RD/D 2.3 3.1 0.3 1.6
SS/1.33/RD/D 2.4 4.1 0.7 2.0
SS/1.56/RD/D 2.5 2.9 - 0.3 1.7
SS/0.89/YE/D 3.2 4.7 - 1.9 3.9
SS/1.11/YE/D 3.3 5.2 - 1.8 3.7
SS/1.33/YE/D 4.3 4.9 - 1.7 3.8
SS/1.56/YE/D 3.8 4.3 - 1.6 3.4
SS/0.89/BU/D 1.1 0.2 - 0.4 0.6
SS/1.11/BU/D 1.4 0.8 0.3 0.8
SS/1.33/BU/D 2.0 1.0 0.2 1.1
SS/1.56/BU/D 2.3 1.2 - 0.2 1.3

图1

半消光原液着色短纤维和大有光原液着色短纤维以及半消光染色短纤维的反射率曲线"

表9

原液着色短纤维和半消光染色短纤维到纱线(Y20/300)的色度值变化"

纤维样品编号 ΔL ΔC ΔH ΔECMC(2:1)
SS/1.56/1.5/RD 2.5 0.9 - 0.3 1.3
SB/1.56/2.8/RD 1.8 3.4 0.3 1.6
SS/1.56/RD/D 2.4 2.7 - 0.2 1.6
SS/1.56/0.3/YE 1.8 1.1 - 0.4 0.8
SB/1.56/0.2/YE 2.9 3.7 - 3.0 2.5
SS/1.56/YE/D 3.7 4.1 - 2.3 2.4
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