Journal of Textile Research ›› 2025, Vol. 46 ›› Issue (04): 81-88.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20240202601

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Design and 3-D simulation of jacquard leno fabrics

SHANG Jingyu, JIANG Gaoming(), CHEN Yushan, LIU Haisang, LI Bingxian   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2024-02-23 Revised:2024-08-21 Online:2025-04-15 Published:2025-06-11
  • Contact: JIANG Gaoming E-mail:jgm@jiangnan.edu.cn

Abstract:

Objective In recent years, due to complex production techniques and other reasons, jacquard leno fabrics have gradually disappeared. Rapid design and three-dimensional structure simulation of jacquard leno fabrics would help to quickly predict the weaving effect of leno fabrics, and it would help generate new design ideas and methods for the design and development of leno fabrics, and is of great significance in reducing the design and development costs of leno fabrics.

Method According to the principle of weaving leno fabrics, a mathematical model for creating weaving diagrams was constructed. In accordance with the structural characteristics of the leno fabrics, a twisting warp geometric model and a ground warp geometric model were established on the basis of the plain weave fabric geometriy, and the deviation patterns of the twisting warp yarns were analyzed. Finally, the three-dimensional structure simulation of jacquard leno fabrics was achieved using C # and WebGL.

Results Drawing upon the weaving principle of jacquard leno fabrics and the representation of woven fabric structures, a mathematical model for generating weaving doagrams was formulated, including the two-dimensional matrix W for the weave diagram, the two-dimensional matrix D for the draft plan, the matrix L for the lifting plan, the matrix C for the twisting warp draft plan, and the matrix F for the twisting warp lifting plan. By utilizing the mathematical relationship among the weaving diagrams of ordinary fabrics, the mathematical relationship among the weaving diagrams of yarn and fabric was derived. The number of offset warp yarns was defined as the warp twist offset coefficient (X), and the X number of warp twists was calculated based on the weaving pattern of yarn and rib fabrics. A yarn threading model was constructed, taking into account the distinct characteristics of the yarns and fabrics. Jacquard leno fabrics consists of basic weave and leno fabric weave, so two geometric models need to be built. Drawing upon the intersection points of warp and weft yarns, the geometric model of plain weave warp and weft yarns and the geometric model of the leno fabrics were depicted. The geometric model of warp and weft yarns in plain weave fabrics added three warp points and three weft points at the interlacing point, and the geometric model of the leno fabric, builded upon the geometric model of warp and weft yarns in plain weave fabrics, also added three warp points at the twist point to create a twist warp geometric model. The x-axis and y-axis coordinates of the three warp points and the coordinates of these three warp points were related to the warp distance (gw) and weft distance (gh), the z-axis coordinates use the fifth structural phase of the nine structural phase systems, relating to the warp bending wave height (hj) and weft diameter (dw). With the help of the THREE.js tool, the 3-D simulation of the jacquard leno fabrics was achieved.

Conclusion Inspired by the structural characteristics of jacquard leno fabrics, a scientific and effective method for weaving diagrams and 3-D simulation is explored and achieved. This method can be applied to the 3-D simulation of various jacquard leno fabrics, so it can promote the design and innovation of jacquard leno fabrics and promote the development of jacquard leno fabrics.

Key words: woven fabric, leno fabric, geometric model, 3-D simulation, WebGL technology

CLC Number: 

  • TS105.1

Fig.1

Topology simulation of jacquard leno fabric. (a) Plain jacquard leno fabric; (b) Embossed jacquard leno fabric; (c) Twill jacquard leno fabric; (d) Hidden jacquard leno fabric"

Fig.2

Looming drafting diagrammatic sketch of jacquard leno fabric"

Fig.3

Flow chart for calculating number X of twisted warps"

Fig.4

Machine diagram of looming drafting (a) and fabric simulation(b) of jacquard leno fabric twisted warp X-number"

Fig.5

Plain weave warp and weft geometry"

Fig.6

Actual structure of leno fabric"

Fig.7

Geometric model of leno fabric. (a) Model of right threading method; (b) Model of left threading method; (c) Side view of twisting warp; (d) Side view of ground warp"

Fig.8

Looming drafting of jacquard leno fabric"

Fig.9

Physical and simulation of jacquard leno fabric. (a) Physical picture 1; (b) Fabric simulation 1; (c) Physical picture 2; (d) Fabric simulation 2"

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