Journal of Textile Research ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (10): 141-147.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210809207

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Application of paper pattern technology in knitting process of fully formed inclined skirt

XU Yanhua(), YUAN Xinlin   

  1. School of Art and Design, Changzhou University, Changzhou, Jiangsu 213164, China
  • Received:2021-08-24 Revised:2022-06-24 Online:2022-10-15 Published:2022-10-28

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Abstract:

In order to tackle the large error between the size of the fully formed inclined skirt sample and the customer's requirements, the fully formed panels structure, knitting process and the causes of the size error were analyzed. The paper pattern technology used for woven garments is applied to the pattern drawing and the arc length acquisition of the waist and hem for the fully formed inclined skirt. The pattern was drawn by fan-shaped cutting-spreading method and arbitrary angle fan-ring method. The arc length was obtained by the paper pattern cutting-moving method and the fan-ring arc length calculation method. The comparisons between the two types of paper patterns and between the two arcs lengths were carried out. A direct theoretical calculation method that is more suitable for the acquisition of the arc length was deduced. The results show that the combination of fan-shaped cutting-spreading method and paper pattern cutting-moving method can be used to obtain the accurate arc length, while the combination of arbitrary angle fan-ring method and fan-ring arc length calculation method can directly calculate the arc length without complex and cumbersome paper pattern drawing, cutting and moving. The sampling time is shortened and the efficiency is improved.

Key words: paper pattern technology, fully formed garment, inclined skirt, knitting process, panels technology

CLC Number: 

  • TS184.5

Fig.1

Style of fully formed skirt"

Tab.1

Specification of fully formed skirt"

参数 参数编号 尺寸/cm
裙长 ① 80
腰宽 ② 32
下摆宽 ③ 125
腰口高 ④ 5
下摆高 ⑤ 5

Tab.2

Structure and density of skirt"

部位 组织 横密/
(纵行·(10 cm)-1)		 纵密/
(横列·(10 cm)-1)
裙身 1+1正反针 70.7 121
下摆 1+1正反针+移圈 121
腰口 1+1罗纹 122

Fig.2

Skirt hem and piece angle of skirt"

Fig.3

Structure and measuring position of fully formed inclined skirt"

Fig.4

Diagram of panels to skirt. (a) Structure of panels; (b) Structure of skirt"

Fig.5

Fan-shaped cutting-spreading method. (a) Step 1; (b) Step 2; (c) Step 3; (d) Step 4; (e) Step 5"

Fig.6

Arbitrary angle fan-ring method. (a) Step 1; (b) Step 2; (c) Step 3; (d) Step 4"

Fig.7

Comparison of paper patterns"

Fig.8

Paper pattern cutting-moving method. (a) Cutting of patterns; (b) Moving of hem arc; (c) Moving of waist arc"

Fig.9

Fan-ring arc length calculation method"

Tab.3

Comparison of arc lengths"

弧线名称 弧线长度/cm 相对误
差/%
纸样剪移法 扇环弧长计算法
腰口弧线 33.7 33.85 0.45
下摆弧线 133.9 134.16 0.19

Fig.10

Fully formed inclined skirt. (a) Front; (b) Back"

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