Journal of Textile Research ›› 2025, Vol. 46 ›› Issue (05): 227-235.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20241005301

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Modular design of knitted protective jackets based on functional partitioning

CONG Honglian(), FANG Leimei, JIANG Fei, LI Huijian, YU Xuliang   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University,Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2024-10-29 Revised:2025-01-16 Online:2025-05-15 Published:2025-06-18

Abstract:

Objective The current demand for cut- and rubbing-resistant flexible protective clothing is becoming increasingly diverse and complex.The majority of protective clothing currently available on the market is designed solely to provide only physical protection, which is single in function and fails to align with the design concept of modular protection for different parts of the human body. This research proposes a modularized design method for flat-bed knitted protective jacket based on functional partitioning, which is derived from the principles of ergonomic theory and the flat-bed knitting process.
Methods The functional partition design scheme was initially delineated in a systematic manner. Subsequently, the method for developing the modularized design model of functional partitioning was elucidated in comprehensive detail, encompassing three fundamental aspects, which are the functional partitioning principle, the functional partitioning logic, and the functional zoning template. Finally, the design was validated through the analysis of a knitted female protective jacket, which was knitted on a STOLL CMS ADF computerized flat knitting machine.
Results The modularization design process is shown, which started with the demand analysis of the garment. The functional partitioning logic was formulated according to the functional partitioning principle; the functional partitioning template was generated, and the modularization design verification and application were carried out. It shows the combination of anthropometric datum and datum line to determine the module division size and location. It demonstrates that the outer layer of protection was zoned into the following levels: chest, abdomen, waist, back, head, and upper limbs. The functional partitioning levels of the inner layer of protection, from highest to lowest, are abdomen, back, head, shoulder, upper arm, forearm, and chest. The logic for addressing conflicts in merging functional zones is as follows: pariritization rules are established to ensure that the outer layer of protection takes precedence over the inner layer, while accommodating the pariritization of different body parts based on their specific requirements. The functional partitioning template must be dynamically adjusted, encompassing adjustments to the number of zones (with consideration given to merging when fewer than 13 zones are present) and the inclusion of special functions such as high mobility and high permeathability, tailored to meet specific needs. Applying this principle, a protective jacket functional partitioning model was constructed.
Conclusion This study proposes modular design of knitted protective apparel, with a focus on the integration of ergonomic theory and the consideration of the diversity characteristics inherent to cross knitting organizations. The modular design comprises three components: functional partitioning principle, logic, and template, achieving synergy and balance of body functions through the division and integration of functional modules. The objective is to develop a comprehensive understanding of the protective function, which serves as the primary foundation for the design process. A horizontal knit protective jacket for women serves as an exemplar for verification. The results demonstrate that the application of the modular design method of functional partitioning has yielded a functional partitioning model of a protective jacket comprising eight zones. Based on this model, three-dimensional body data is combined with a two-dimensional flat paper pattern, which is then converted into stitch and row counts for machine knitting, ultimately being shaped through knitting technology. The connection of different zoned modules is achieved through the application of high-efficiency fiber product thermo-compression molding technology (utilizing an ultrasonic device for heating during the molding process, followed by the use of a hobbing knife to cut the fabric interface) or the needle augmentation/stacking process (necessitating additional stitches when the lower module has fewer stitches than the upper module, and stacking stitches when the lower module has more stitches). Finally, digital display technology is employed, which verified the integration of the modular design concept of functional partitioning in terms of functionality and comfort. This study presents a realization scheme for the development of protective clothing with functional partitioning, with the objective of creating an advanced protective clothing system that can effectively respond to a range of protection needs while also ensuring the comfort and adaptability of the wearer.

Key words: flat-bed knitting technique, protective clothing, functional partitioning, modular design, ergonomics

CLC Number: 

  • TS186.3

Fig.1

Structural framework for modular design based on functional partitioning"

Fig.2

Upper body reference points and related measurement areas. (a) Front; (b) Back ;(c) Sides"

Fig.3

Functional partitioning for outer protection. (a) Front; (b) Back"

Fig.4

Functional partitioning for inner protection. (a) Front; (b) Back"

Fig.5

Special functional partitioning. (a) Front; (b) Back"

Fig.6

Functional partitioning model. (a) Front; (b) Back"

Fig.7

Protective jacket functional partitioning model. (a) Front; (b) Back"

Tab.1

Fabric basic parameters"

编号 分区编号 横密/
(纵行·(5 cm)-1)
纵密/
(横列·(5 cm)-1)
耐切割
载荷/N
切割
等级
保温率/
%
透气率/
(mm·s-1)
排汗性
等级/级
S1 E5I5 36 56 19.0 A4 38.7 130.5 3
S2 E4I5 36 66 18.4 A4 42.3 137.2 4
S3 I3E3 36 76 25.3 A5 41.4 133.6 4
S4 E1I6 36 72 27.7 A5 40.6 140.2 3
S5 E2I1 42 68 22.7 A5 53.6 146.3 3
S6 I1E3 44 80 19.1 A4 51.1 125.8 4
S7 T1 44 74 22.0 A5 36.4 324.3 4
S8 T2 42 68 21.0 A4 43.6 165.7 3

Fig.8

Protective jacket styles. (a) Front; (b) Back"

Fig.9

Protective jacket pattern"

Fig.10

Protective knitting process"

Fig.11

Schematic diagram of process of adding/stacking needles at module connections"

Fig.12

Protective jacket physical effect picture. (a) Front; (b) Back"

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