Journal of Textile Research ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (03): 83-88.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210304406

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Design principle and method of double-layer full-color structure with central weft stitching

ZHANG Meng, ZHOU Jiu()   

  1. Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2021-03-11 Revised:2021-09-11 Online:2022-03-15 Published:2022-03-29
  • Contact: ZHOU Jiu E-mail:zhoujiu34@126.com

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Abstract:

In order to solve the problems of complicated weave structure, simple weave pattern and color, and low design efficiency on double-face jacquard fabrics with central weft stitching, a double-layer full-color structure with central weft stitching was presented based on layer-combination design principle. The research concentrates on methods for coverable weave design, coverable full-color weave design for surface and inner structures, and in particular the central weft stitch weave design. The design method of double-layer full-color structure with central weft stitching was established. The surface and inner structures were designed in the form of single jacquard fabric, and the double-layer structure was accomplished by using particular central weft stitch weaves. The results show that the layer-combination design method simplifies the design process, improves the structural stability, reduces the repair rate of structural design, enhances the design efficiency, and intensifies the color on both sides.

Key words: digital jacquard, double-face fabric, jacquard fabric, double-layer structure, central weft stitching, full-color weave

CLC Number: 

  • TS105.1

Fig.1

Double-layer weave with central weft stitching. (a) Weave diagram with central weft stitching; (b) Upper layer weave; (c) Lower layer weave; (d) Weft profile"

Fig.2

Design process of covered full-color weave"

Fig.3

Primary weave and full-color technical points. (a) Primary weave; (b) Full-color technical points"

Fig.4

Design of covered weave A"

Fig.5

Design of covered weave B"

Tab.1

Number of covered weave based on 16-thread primary weave"

基本组织B起始点 可遮盖组织数量
(1,3) 10
(1,4) 9
(1,5)…(1,11) 8
(1,12) 9
(1,13) 10
(1,14) 9
(1,15) 10
(1,16) 12

Fig.6

First group of covered primary weaves and covered full-color technical points. (a) Covered primary weaves; (b) Covered full-color technical points"

Fig.7

Second group of covered primary weaves and covered full-color technical points. (a) Covered primary weaves; (b) Covered full-color technical points"

Tab.2

Interweave times of CPW and CFTW"

组织 第1组 第2组
CPW CFTW CPW CFTW
经 纬 经 纬 经 纬 经 纬
组织A 6 2 6 4 6 2 6 4
组织B 6 2 6 4 4 4 4 6

Fig.8

16-thread covered full-color weave (enhancement number is 16). (a) Covered full-color weave for surface layer; (b) Covered full-color weave for inner layer"

Fig.9

Design of central weft stitch weaves"

Tab.3

Technical specification of double-face jacquard fabric with central weft stitching"

纱线 线密度 材料 颜色 密度/
(根·cm-1)		 组织
经纱 22.2/24.4 dtex×2 桑蚕丝 黑 114 16枚可遮盖全显色组织
纬纱 100 dtex 棉 蓝/红/绿/
淡蓝/黄/绿		 180

Fig.10

Double-face jacquard fabric with central weft stitching. (a) Fabric effect; (b) Profile detail"

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