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Table of Content

    15 July 2010, Volume 31 Issue 7
    • 纤维材料
      Effect of ethanol vapor treatment on properties of electrospun MWNTs/silk fibroin/polyamine 6/66 fibers
      XU Anchang;ZHANG Lu;PAN Zhijuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  1-5. 
      Abstract ( 1169 )   PDF (875KB) ( 362 )   Save
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      Alcohol vapor treatment is a useful way in improving the structure and properties of electrospun nanofibers. Electrospinning was employed to produce MWNTs/silk fibroin/polyamine 6/66 composite nanofiber mat which was then treated by ethanol vapor. The results indicated that the samples with less mass fraction of MWNTs exhibited swelling and conglutintion, and the fiber with greater mass fraction presented only radial expansion. The ethanol vapor treatment evidently improved the degree of crystallinity, thermal stability and mechanical properties of the electrospun nanofiber mats. After alcohol vapor treatment, the degree of crystallinity of the sample increased from 55.8% to 63.9%, and the breaking strength, initial modulus and breaking elongation increased by 45%, 103% and 134% respectively when the MWNTs mass fraction was 0.1%.

      Low-temperature solution growth of ZnO nanorods on PET fabrics
      ZHOU Zhaoyi;ZHAO Yaping;GE Fengyan;CAI Zaisheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  6-10. 
      Abstract ( 1183 )   PDF (1513KB) ( 281 )   Save
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      Oriented one-dimensional ZnO nanorod arrays were prepared on PET fabrics via a simple two-step process. The ZnO nanocrystals were first synthesized by sol-gel method and coated onto PET substrates by dip-pad-cure process as nucleation seeds, followed by hydrothermal ZnO growth in aqueous solution of zinc nitrate hexahydrate and hexamethylenetetramine. FE-SEM and TEM images showed the typical ZnO nanorods were 40-50 nm in diameter and 300-600 nm in length. X-ray diffraction result indicated the as-prepared nanorods were of hexagonal wurtzite ZnO structure and its growth direction is along the c-axis. Compared with untreated PET fabrics, the UPF of the PET fabrics with ZnO nanorods increased from 88.92 to 480.52, indicating excellent protection against ultraviolet radiation.

      Hydrophilic multi-porous polyacrylonitrile fiber and comfortability of its product
      DIAO Caihong;XIAO Changfa;HU Xiaoyu;MA Yanxia
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  11-15. 
      Abstract ( 1198 )   PDF (993KB) ( 282 )   Save
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      In order to improve the wear-comfort of conventional polyacrylonitrile (PAN) fabrics, the modified PAN fibers (M-PAN) with micropore structure were prepared by blending PAN and polyoxyethylene (PEO) via wet-spinning process and water bath post-treatment. Then HM-PAN non-woven fabrics were obtained by weaving M-PAN into non-woven fabrics and post-treatment of alkaline hydrolysis. The wear-comfort of the HM-PAN non-woven fabric was studied through comparing with the PAN, nonhydrolyzed M-PAN and cotton non-woven fabrics under the same experimental conditions. The results show that, in comparison with PAN and M-PAN fabrics, the moisture absorbency, water absorbency, water vapor transmission of HM-PAN fabric improve significantly. The moisture and water absorbency of HM-PAN fabric are poorer than those of cotton fabric, while the water vapor transmission is better than that of cotton fabric. The air permeability of HM-PAN fabric is better than that of PAN and cotton fabrics, but poorer than that of M-PAN fabric.

      Effect of adding PANI-DBSA in dope on diameter of electrospun PAN nanofibers
      CHEN Yong;XIONG Jie;CHANG Huaiyun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  16-20. 
      Abstract ( 1222 )   PDF (1051KB) ( 299 )   Save
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      The polyaniline doped with different concentrations of dodecylbenzene sulfonic acid (PANI-DBSA) was added to the polyacylonitrile(PAN) electrospinning solution to decrease the diameter of the resulting nanofibers. The compatibility of the blends was investigated, and the effects of the mass concentration of DBSA on the conductivity of the spinning solution, the diameter and diameter distribution of the nanofibers were analyzed. It is shown that the hydrogen bonding between the carbonyl groups in PAN copolymer and the imines groups in PANI-DBSA makes the blends have good compatibility. Increasing the DBSA mass concentration increases the solution conductivity, but decreases the diameter of fiber and the fiber’s discrete coefficient. The finest fiber diameter is 116 nm when the mass concentration of the DBSA is 1.1mol/L.

      Effect of magnetron sputtering coating time on mechanical property of PET filament
      Wang GuoXuan;GUO Xingfeng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  21-24. 
      Abstract ( 1166 )   PDF (732KB) ( 331 )   Save
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      In order to study the effect of magnetron sputtering time on textile material’s tensile property, PET filament fabric was used as substrate to deposit metallic Ti thin film on its surface by varying magnetron sputtering duration, then the tensile property of the treated fabric yarns was tested. The results showed that the sputter coating has limited effect on the warp and weft yarn break tenacity, but greatly changes the break elongation and break work. With the increasing of sputtering time, both the break work and the break elongation change in similar pattern. The break work and break elongation first decreased with less sputtering time (<150 s) and then increase with increasing sputtering time. However, when the sputtering time is over 240 s, the break work and break elongation decreased again.

      Crystallinity and degradation of inorganic powder modified polypropylene spun-bonded nonwoven fabric
      YAN Hongyuan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  25-29. 
      Abstract ( 1087 )   PDF (1164KB) ( 243 )   Save
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      This article addressed the production technology of the inorganic powder modified polypropylene spun-bonded nonwoven fabric, and the crystalline structure and crystallinity of the product, along with the cause leading to the change of crystallinity and mechanical properties of the product in the process of light-degradation. The research indicated that addition of the inorganic powder increased the crystallinity and varied the crystalline structure of polypropyiene spun-bonded nonwovens. In the process of light-degradation the crystallinity first increased and then decreased. The inorganic powder can accelerate the process of light-degradation of the product. The higher the content of inorganic powder, the faster the light-degradation. By means of adjusting the production technology and changing the dosage of inorganic powder, economy, functionality and environmental protection can be realized.

      纺织工程
      Properties of cotton/mercerized wool/Outlast fiber blended yarns
      CHEN Weilai;ZHANG Shengcheng;GAO Ying;ZHU Liping;SHEN Jianhua
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  30-33. 
      Abstract ( 1225 )   PDF (398KB) ( 327 )   Save
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      In order to study the cotton / mercerized wool / Outlast fiber blended yarns’ thermal properties, DSC was used to test the thermal properties of the blended yarn by varying Outlast fiber content. The results showed that the ffect of Outlast fiber content on the beginning, ending, and peak temperatures of the phase-changing temperature-regulating of is very small, only in the cooling process the ending and peak temperatures slightly decrease with the Outlast fiber content increases. Furthermore, there is a linear relationship between the yarns’ enthalpy values and the Outlast fiber content at the time of cooling, but it is not so prominent during the warming process. When Outlast fiber content is 40%, yarn’s enthalpy value and the starting and ending points of phase-changing are better.

      Explorary research on sizing performance of pure kapok yarns
      YANG Li
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  34-37. 
      Abstract ( 1266 )   PDF (454KB) ( 245 )   Save
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      To resolve the problems of pure kapok yarn such as low strength,much hairiness, poor wear resistance and difficult to weave, sizing experiments of 27.8 tex pure kapok yarns was carried out in order to improve yarn performance and meet the requirements of weaving. According to the characteristics of kapok yarns, a mixed size composed of acidic modified starch and PVA was selected to size kapok yarns, and sizing conditions were varied as a function of solid content and size proportions with a view to investigate the strength enhancement, elongation, and hairiness reduction of the sized yarns. The results showed that low solid content helps size penetration and facilitates yarn strength and elongation improvement. Within certain scope increasing the content of PVA increases the performance indexes of the sized yarns, and adding a small amount of PVA0588 benefits the improvement of the quality of the sized yarns.

      Mechanical properties of bamboo/cotton fabric as affected by bamboo fiber content and weft density
      CHEN ZHI-HUA;MA Shunbin
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  38-42. 
      Abstract ( 1059 )   PDF (556KB) ( 277 )   Save
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      The mechanical properties of fifteen bamboo/cotton fabrics with different specifications were tested, such as tensile strength at break, breaking elongation, tearing strength and fastness to abrasion, etc, and the effects of bamboo fiber content and weft density on the mechanical properties of the fabrics were researched. The results showed that with the increase of bamboo fiber content, the total tensile strength at break (warpwise+weftwise) declined, the weftwise breaking elongation increased, and the warpwise breaking elongation firstly increased and then declined. Weftwise tearing strength firstly declined and then increased, and warpwise tearing strength exhibited little changed. Fabric weight loss accelerated, fastness to abrasion deteriorated. When bamboo fiber content was 30%, the fastness to abrasion was the best. When bamboo fiber contentwas up to 70%, the tensile strength at break, breaking elongation, tearing strength and fastness to abrasion became the worst, and this should be avoided in actual production. When warp density remained fixed, increasing weft density increased tensile strength at break, breaking elongation, and fastness to abrasion, but reduced tearing strength.

      Abrasion resistance of worsted fabric treated with formic acid morphological changes of rupture end
      Wang Li;YAO Jinbo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  43-45. 
      Abstract ( 1031 )   PDF (571KB) ( 215 )   Save
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      The abrasion resistance of wool fabrics can be improved by treatment with polar organic solvent. Worsted fabrics were treated with formic acid at different temperatures and time, and then subjected to 10 000 rubs by Martindale abrasion. Then weight the fabrics before and after treatment. The results indicated that the weight loss of fabric increased gradually when the temperature of treatment was above 90 ℃ and the minimum weight loss was observed when the fabric was treated at 20 ℃ for 12 hours. SEM test revealed that the broken fiber sections exhibited three forms, i.e., fibrillated fiber ends, round fiber ends and transversely fractured fiber ends. Fibrillated fiber ends dominated in the fabrics untreated or treated with low temperature, and chiefly round fiber ends appeared with the fabrics treated with high temperature.

      Fabric weaving defect detection algorithm based on dynamic fuzzy clustering
      SHEN Wei;LIU Wenhao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  46-49. 
      Abstract ( 1042 )   PDF (1035KB) ( 236 )   Save
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      A fabric weaving defect detection algorithm based on dynamic fuzzy clustering is proposed to solve problems such as poor adaptability and real-time in fabric defect detection algorithms. The gray average projection in the weft and warp direction is regarded as eigenvalue after images preprocessing. The suspicious defect region is separated with dynamic fuzzy clustering algorithm according to the projection distortion on the gray average in defect region, which is located and extracted from suspicious defect region by selecting proper thresholds of the distortion density and degree so that the pseudo defect region is filtered out effectively. The results of experiments show that this algorithm has the features of high reliability, strong adaptability and anti-noise-interference ability.

      Finite element analysis on compressibility of woven spacer fabric
      LI Hongshun;CAO Haijian;QIAN Kun;YU Kejing
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  50-54. 
      Abstract ( 1106 )   PDF (974KB) ( 271 )   Save
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      In order to study the mechanical properties of the woven spacer fabric, a dynamic model for analysis was developed with a view to investigating the woven spacer fabric manufactured by special technologies. A finite element model was established using ANSYS software based on the analysis on the forming principle and the structure of the fabric. Since the compressibility for the woven spacer fabric is the most important mechanical property during serviceability, a simulative analysis of it was carried out and the stress-deformation plot and stress-strain curve were obtained to simulate its deformation in the process of compression. The analytical comparison showed that simulated results well agree with the experimental values.

      染整与化学品
      Unconditioned color combination with microencapsulated disperse dyes based on auxiliary-free solubilization
      ZHANG Ben;BAI Congli;QI Yi;ZHONG Yi;LUO Yan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  55-59. 
      Abstract ( 1063 )   PDF (619KB) ( 193 )   Save
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      Unconditioned color combination based on auxiliary-free solubilization can be carried out on pure disperse dyes with poor compatibility by varying preparation conditions of microencapsulation. Uptake curve, build-up curve, K/S value, brightness L value, a value (red and green axis), b value (yellow and blue axis), H value (hue angle) and related properties of dyed samples, such as washing fastness, rubbing fastness and levelness, were studied respectively. The results show that compatibility of disperse dyes are significantly improved by microencapsulation. The fastnesses of ultra-fine PET dyed with microencapsulated disperse dyes are as good as that of the samples dyed with auxiliary solubilization disperse dyes. The levelness reaches about 5 grade.

      Natural tea pigment dyeing of cotton fibers with Fe2+ as a mordanting agent
      LI Fengyan;UANG Qiaofen;HONG Caihong;ZHONG Zhili
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  60-63. 
      Abstract ( 1374 )   PDF (660KB) ( 360 )   Save
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      The aqueous tea solution extracted from green tea was used to dye cotton fibers with FeSO4 as mordanting agent. The effect of pre-mordanting, meta-mordanting and post-mordanting on dyeing property of fibers was studied. In the case of the post-mordanting, the effect of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, pH value of dye bath and mordant concentration on the dyeing of fibers were analyzed. FTIR was used to characterize the microstructure of fiber samples, and the strength and elongation of fibers before and after dyeing were also tested. The results showed that post-mordanting method exhibited the best effect of dyeing with the maximum K/S value. The optimum conditions for the post-mordanting dyeing method with natural tea pigment using Fe2+ as mordant were as follows: dye concentration 10 g/L, dyeing temperature 100 ºC, pH = 4, and mordant concentration 5 %(o.w.f). The hydrogen bond of cellulose reacted with Fe2+ to form metal complex. In comparison with the cotton fibers before dyeing, the breaking strength decreased slightly and breaking elongation increased considerably for the dyed fibers.

      Study on inclusion medicine of cotton fabric grafted with β-cyclodextrin
      ZHu Ping;YUAN Xing;ZHANG Lin;ZHANG Jianbo
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  64-68. 
      Abstract ( 961 )   PDF (544KB) ( 233 )   Save
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      β-cyclodextrin was grafted onto the cotton fabric with epichlorohydrin in alkaline conditions. The functional cotton fabric which included medicine (eugenol) was produced with the inclusion capability of β-cyclodextrin. The content of the medicine was measured, and its stability and release capability in water were investigated. The results showed that the new cotton fabric included 18.5 µg medicine per gram. The release of the eugenol was at a good state when the cotton fabric was placed at the temperature of human body, and the eugenol release was nearly balanced over 150 min in water at 30℃.

      Cotton fabric finished with low temperature prepared nano-TiO2 sol and its catalytic effect for dye degradation
      YANG JinKu;DONG Yongchun;GUO Jin;LIU Chunyan
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  69-73. 
      Abstract ( 1080 )   PDF (716KB) ( 318 )   Save
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      The nano-TiO2 sol was prepared at room temperature through hydrolysis of tetra-n-butyl titanate, and then loaded on the surface of cotton fabric using finishing method, thus obtained nano-TiO2 finished fabrics, that were characterized and used as photocatalysts for oxidative degradation of Rhodamine B in water. Some factors affecting degradation such as molar ratio of water to n-butyl titanate, aging time and weighting percentage of the nano-TiO2 finished fabrics were investigated with respect to the decoloration value, and reuse of nano-TiO2 finished fabrics and degradation reaction kinetics of Rhodamine B were also examined. The results showed that increasing molar ratio of water to n-butyl titanate led to the smaller particle size and more homogeneous nano-TiO2 sol during its preparation, and the nano-TiO2 sol could form an anatase TiO2 nano-crystalline film on the surface of cotton fabrics through padding-curing process. Increasing the weighting percentage of the nano-TiO2 finished fabrics significantly accelerated dye degradation, and increasing molar ratio of water to n-butyl titanate and aging time could also improve the photocatalytic activity of the nano-TiO2 finished fabrics. In addition, the nano-TiO2 finished fabrics could be reused for dye degradation, and the degradation of Rhodamine B in the presence of nano-TiO2 finished fabrics followed the pseudo-first order kinetics.

      Ar plasma initiated grafting reaction for hydrophilicity of PET fabrics
      CHEN Ying;CHEN Sen;SONG Fujia
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  74-78. 
      Abstract ( 1066 )   PDF (911KB) ( 263 )   Save
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      Polyester(PET) fabric which had been subject to the pretreatment with polyethylene glycol was treated by glow discharge plasma in low-pressure argon. The electron temperature and electron density of the plasma were determined by electrostatic probe. The hydrophilicity of treated polyester fabric was measured by moisture management test (MMT). The influence of grafting monomer and argon plasma conditions on the hydrophilicity of treated polyester fabric was analyzed. The reaction mechanism and durability of hydrophilicity of the treated PET were discussed. The results showed that the hydrophilicity of polyester fabrics was improved evidently with argon plasma treatment after dipping 5% polyethylene glycol for 1000. The optimum plasma treatment conditions were defined as follows: discharge power 50W, pressure 30Pa and plasma exposure time 3 minutes.The wetting time of the treated fabric was 2.9, diffusion rate of water was 7.2mm/s and contact angle was 0° on the surface of polyester fabric. The fabric showed good durability in hydrophilicity after many times of washing.

      Grafting chitosan onto cotton fabric by UV-irradiation and analysis of its performance
      WANG Tao;LAN Guangqian;JING Lingxiao;WU Dayang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  79-84. 
      Abstract ( 1111 )   PDF (1294KB) ( 331 )   Save
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      Grafting chitosan (CS) onto cotton fabric by UV-irradiation was performed using citric acid (CA) as cross-linking agent and sodium dihydrogen phosphate as catalyst. The effect of concentration of CA and bathing time on the grafting percentage of CS was investigated. The optimum conditions were determined as follows: CS 15 g/L, CA 100 g/L, sodium dihydrogen phosphate 20 g/L, bathing for 60 min at 70℃, then curing at 130℃ for 5 min, and then vacuum drying at room temperature for 24hrs. The grafting percentage of CS was 2.69%. The dyeing property, air and moisture permeability, crease recovery and softness of the treated and untreated cotton fabrics were discussed. The results showed that in compared with the untreated fabric, the dye uptake rate of the treated fabric increased to 93.5% ( 20% higer than that of the untreated one). The K/S value increased by 24% but color fastness remained the same. The moisture permeability increased by 14% but air permeability decreased by 15%. The crease recovery enhanced, therein the acute crease recovery increased by 26.3% and the slow one by 14.7%. The softness declined a little. In general, the overall performance of the chitosan modified cotton fabric has been enhanced.

      Enzymatic antifelting treatment of wool fabric with keratinase and protease
      WANG Ping;FAN Xuerong;CAI Chenggang;WANG Qiang;CUI Li;ZHAO Xianfei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  85-90. 
      Abstract ( 1225 )   PDF (597KB) ( 412 )   Save
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      The goal of this study was to improve the effect of enzymatic antifelting treatment of wool via a novel keratinase from Bacillus subtilis and a Savinase protease. The influence of two-step enzymatic process on the weight loss of wool was investigated. The results indicated that keratinase treatment alone did not lead to obvious weight loss. However, it did promote the following protease treatment. In comparison with the conventional oxdition-protease process, the keratinase-cutinase process endowed wool fabrics with a bit lower weight loss, better wettability and dyeability as well as less fiber damage. The data from amino acid analysis indicated that the relative mass concentration of cystine for the keratinase-protease treated wool was lower than that of the oxidation-protease treated wool, which revealed that the keratinase treatment might promote the reduction of Cys–S-S-Cys in cuticle scales and make the succeeding protease treatment occur efficiently from the underlying protein layer of wool surface.

      Influence of finishing process on properties of knitted ramie fabric
      LING Qunmin;TAN Lei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  91-96. 
      Abstract ( 1095 )   PDF (802KB) ( 266 )   Save
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      Knitted ramie fabrics present strong scratchiness during wear. The paper briefly discusses the reason leading to scratchiness and how to reduce it. We adopted three kinds of finishing process—the shearing-softening agent treatment (combined treatment), cellulase-softening agent treatment, and softening agent treatment to finish knitted ramie fabric respectively. The basic properties of the treated fabrics such as stitch density, surface density,tensile strength along with the wale direction, draping, pilling resistance, wrinkle recovery and scratchiness were tested. The experimental results show that these finishing processes can reduce the scratchiness of knitted ramie fabrics, but will deteriorate the basic properties of the fabrics, especially the tensile strength. It is found through analytical comparison that the shearing-softening agent treatment was the most effective one in reducing the scratchiness of knitted ramie fabrics, but with great impact on the mechanical propeties of the fabrics.
      Surface modification of polyester pongee fabric by atmospheric pressure dielectric barrier discharge techniques
      WANG Chunying;WANG Chaoxia
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  97-101. 
      Abstract ( 994 )   PDF (771KB) ( 237 )   Save
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      Polyester pongee fabric was modified by atmospheric pressure dielectric barrier discharge technology, and the influence of dischage power and discharge duration on the wettability of the fabric was discussed. Attenuated total reflection infrared spectroscopy and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy were used to study the surface chemical composition and element content of the fabric. The atomic force microscopy (AFM) was employed to observe the surface morphology changes of the modified fabric. The tensile properties and water vapor permeability of the fabric was analyzed. The results showed that atmospheric pressure dielectric barrier discharge could greatly improve the wetting properties of fabric, due to the increased oxygen content and the surface roughness. At the same time, the breaking strength, elongation at break and water vapor permeability were also significantly improved by modification.

      服装工程
      Influence of clothing-brand country-of-origin on consumers cognition
      YAN Chao;JIANG Lei;ZHANG Bi
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  102-106. 
      Abstract ( 1348 )   PDF (793KB) ( 497 )   Save
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      Based on analyzing the theory of country-of-origin effect and considering the characteristics of garment industry, this study deduces the consumer’s attitude to the clothing brand from six different countries including the United States, France, Britain, Japan, South Korea and China by survey approach. The effect of the image of country-of-origin on customer’s product beliefs and brand attitudes was investigated. The correlation between consumer’s product beliefs and brand attitudes was analyzed. This research drew conclusions as follows:Country-of-origin effect does exist in Chinese consumers;Four dimensions of country-of-origin image i.e. country indentify, brand stereotypes, country developing level, fashion leading power have influence to customer’s product beliefs;it has correlativity between consumer’s product beliefs and brand attitudes of clothing brand from country-of-origin.

      Emotional positioning of apparel brand
      YANG Wei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  107-111. 
      Abstract ( 1934 )   PDF (893KB) ( 518 )   Save
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      Beginning from analyzing the human emotional needs and regarding emotion as the positioning core of apparel brand, a guidance system of market segmentation is thus developed. By introduction of emotional positioning way of apparel brand and analysis of emotional elements regarding apparel brand, the correspondence relations of emotional gradation and Maslow’s hierarchy of needs and apparel hierarchy of function are obtained. The relation between emotional positioning and specific character of brand and the emotional tie between consumer and brand are expounded. It is argued that emotional resonance is the basis between consumer and apparel brand, and proper adjustment of emotional positioning is the key to keep emotional tie between customer and apparel brand.

      On planning of urban professional crowd color
      LIU Shuli
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  112-116. 
      Abstract ( 970 )   PDF (754KB) ( 340 )   Save
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      For urban cultural enhancement of color images and the disire to become more competitive in a higher level, the planning of urban professional crowd color is addressed in terms of urban planning, color concepts, principles and methods, and concepts and current status, application principle and specific measures are studied both theoretically and practically. Occupational groups color subordinated to the city color is mobile, which possesses more humanities charm and details of aesthetic of the city, reflecting typical elements of the taste of modern urban culture and constituting an integrat part of the construction of the environment for attracting tourists and investment. Through extensive and in-depth investigation of geographical environment, landscape architecture, history and culture, trade characteristics that associated with colors, it is suggested that a reasonable population of urban professional color planning could be achieved by research, education, and appropriate legislation and guidance system.

      机械与器材
      Virtual prototype simulating of four-bar beating-up mechanism of loom with joint clearance
      CHEN Ge;KOU Jianbin;LUO jun;SHEN Jun
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  117-121. 
      Abstract ( 961 )   PDF (551KB) ( 229 )   Save
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      This study intends to research the influence of the joint clearance in connecting rod bin on beating-up motion. Based on the principle that the force in the bearing clearance is negative or zero means the pairing elements separate, the contact and collision in the bearing of the connecting rod bin is predicted. The kinetic pair with clearance is established by a continuous contact model, and the clearance between components is replaced by a rigid bar without mass. Virtual prototype model is established in Solidworks, and the kinematics and dynamics simulation is applied on it with COSMOSMotion. By analyzing the magnitude and direction of force loading on the clearance-bar, it is persuadable that the elements of the pair will separate and contact several times in a period of crank’s movement. Based on the kinetic analysis of the slay, it is noted that the components are affected by impact force under high speed conditions, which brings negative effect on the mechanism’s beating-up performance and fabric’s quality.

      Win CE based design of human-machine interaction system for air-jet loom
      WANG Jing;JIN YUzhen;HU Xudong;XIE Yongliang;HE Weiqiang
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  122-126. 
      Abstract ( 908 )   PDF (1498KB) ( 297 )   Save
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      In order to meet the modern air-jet loom’s requirement for human-machine interaction platform, such as quick response, simple operation and scalability, a novel design of human-machine interaction system based on Win CE and CAN protocol for air-jet loom was presented in the article. Firstly, the embedded system hardware platform was designed using microprocessor EP9307 as the core; and the win CE operating system was customized. Secondly, the interface was designed using C# language, with the parameters of the system integrated; and the mechanism of data access based on the XML file was implemented. Finally, the program of CAN communication, in which multi-line technical design and Win CE interrupt mechanism were integrated, was designed based on self-defining CAN protocol, thereby realizing communication between the functional modules. A large number of test results showed that the system has good ability of interaction and communication and the characteristics of stable operation, real-time, easy expansion and maintenance.

      Loom information transmission system development based on wireless technology
      WU Jing;CHEN Gang;XU Zhiming
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  127-130. 
      Abstract ( 874 )   PDF (1187KB) ( 267 )   Save
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      In order to make up the shortcoming of the loom data transmission at present, analytical comparison was made and a wireless transmission based on CC1100 chip was put forward. This paper introduced the loom control system and hardware design of the wireless transmission system, including diagrams and design principles. It focuses on data communication protocol and software design of wireless module. Experimental results revealed that in the state of one to one communication between the main PC and the loom, this system has such advantages as accurate and stable data transmission, and reliable performance, thus meeting the requirements of weaving workshop data transmission. Further study is needed in terms of large-capacity data transmission.

      Position accuracy analysis on needle bar mechanism of computerized embroidery machine
      LIN JianLong;LUO Zhiwen;ZHANG Li
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  131-134. 
      Abstract ( 1131 )   PDF (385KB) ( 336 )   Save
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      The needle bar mechanism of computerized embroidery machine is a six-bar mechanism with slide block. A analytic model of the position accuracy of the needle bar mechanism was set up by means of the complex-vector method, and the embroidery accuracy of the needle bar mechanism was analyzed. The expression of the embroidery error of the needle bar mechanism was obtained, the calculating program with Matlab were worked out, and the embroidery error of the needle bar mechanism of computerized embroidery machaine GY902A was calculated with the program. The regularity of the embroidery of the needle bar mechanism varying with the rotation angle of the crank was obtained, which has important reference value to the movement design of the needle bar mechanism of computerized embroidery machine and improvement of the quality of embroidery products.

      Reformation of automatic control system of overflow dyeing machine
      XIE Shuiying;HAN Chengjiang;JIANG Lei
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  135-140. 
      Abstract ( 1034 )   PDF (962KB) ( 338 )   Save
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      The current control system of dyeing machines has such drawbacks as single control mode, low degree of automation, and great consumption of water and power. Therefore, a novel control system is proposed, which applies PLC and configuration technique along with frequency conversion and intelligent PID, realizing discrete control and solving the above problems with improvement in real-time control. The experiments demonstrated that the modified system simplifies the production process, standardizes the operating process, and enhances levelness and quality of the dyed fabrics. With incorporation of PID control algorithm, the control system is characterized by good response, high precision, energy-saving and cost-reducing, pollution cut and efficiency enhancement.

      管理与信息化
      Research on collaborative allocation of same-level sales network in apparel supply chain
      WANG Zhihong;CAO Haixheng
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  141-144. 
      Abstract ( 1015 )   PDF (529KB) ( 301 )   Save
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      High stock and low satisfaction of customers is a common problem in the apparel sector in China. For this reason, the collaborative apparel allocation in the same-level sales network was presented. The collaborative allocation mechanism in apparel supply chain was investigated. The XML-based collaborative allocation system framework for apparel supply chain was presented, and XML-based information integration model was studied. Based on the information integration, in terms of loss caused by inventory shortage, loss caused by inventory backlog and allocation cost, a relevant directed weighted bipartite graph was built. The optimal allocation scheme was acquired, thus lowering the risk caused by inventory backlog or inventory shortage and improving customers satisfaction.

      综合述评
      Research progress in antibacterial activity of chitosan and development of antimicrobial textile
      LIU Lunjie;WU Dayang;WANG Tao
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2010, 31(7):  145-150. 
      Abstract ( 1169 )   PDF (721KB) ( 477 )   Save
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      A review of the antibacterial mechanism of chitosan (CS) and the current status of the development of antimicrobial textile was conducted for the purpose of investigating the application of CS to textiles. The effects of molecular weight(MW), degree of deacetylation(DD), solution concentration, pH value, kinds of solvents and derivatives of CS on its antibacterial activity were discussed. It was found by practice that CS with medium MW and high DD, which dissolved in acetic acid at a concentration of over 2.5g/L with pH value more than 4, possesses excellent antibacterial activity, which can be furthe enhanced by the derivation of CS. It was shown through analysis that at present there are two ways to produce antimicrobial textile with CS, i.e., fixing CS to the traditional textile and producing CS fiber products. For the former, the antibacterial activity reduces gradually with washing times. For the latter, it has permanent effect. However, further research is needed for products with good antimicrobial performance.