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Table of Content

    15 January 2015, Volume 36 Issue 01
    • Preparation and characterization of rare-earth strontium aluminate luminescence nanofibers by electrospinning
      JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH. 2015, 36(01):  1-5. 
      Abstract ( 256 )   PDF (1323KB) ( 472 )   Save
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      PVP/[Sr(NO3)2+Al(NO3)3+Eu(NO3)3+Dy(NO3)3] composite nanofibers were prepared by sol-gel and electrospinning technique. The influence of nitrate content on the performance and spinnability of spinning solution was discussed. SrAl2O4:Eu2+,Dy3+ luminescent nanometer short fibers were synthesized by calcination under a reducing atmosphere at 1100℃. The luminescent nanofiber samples were characterized by XRD, SEM, FTIR, fluorescence spectrophotometer, respectively. The experimental results showed that the samples possess SrAl2O4 pure phase and monoclinic crystal structure, the diameter of nanofibers is about 200nm and the size is uniformly distributed. The excitation spectrum of samples takes on a continuous broad band nearly from 250 to 450 nm. The samples emit green fluorescence of 510nm in wavelength of Eu2+ ion characteristic emission under the excitation of 365nm in wavelength of ultraviolet ray. The position of emission peak exhibit blue shift in some degree compared with that of bulk SrAl2O4:Eu2+, Dy3+. The initial luminescent intensity is 1.72 cd/m2.

      Morphological structure and property of rice-straw fibers
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  6-10. 
      Abstract ( 446 )   PDF (1281KB) ( 378 )   Save
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      In order to understanding the morphological structure,physical and mechanical properties of fibers from rice straw,the morphology,chemical structure,crystallinity and orientation of fibers were tested by the scanning electron microscope,infrared spectra,X-ray diffraction.The length,linear density,moisture regain,breaking strength,breakage elongation and flexibility of rice-straw fibers were tested as well as. The experimental results indicated that,the lengthwise of the fiber has a large number of grooves and it’s specific surface area is large.The crystallinity and orientation of rice-straw fibers are high.The length of the single fiber is very short. The processing fibers is made with half degumming process. The linear density of processing fibers is relatively large and the softness of processing fibers is poor.The moisture absorption of fibers is good.

      Test of axial compression performance of fiber and determination of prickle property thereof
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  11-17. 
      Abstract ( 428 )   PDF (1813KB) ( 398 )   Save
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      Different design and method for testing of fiber axial compressing performance were proposed, the changes of contact conditions for fiber sample and the test-head and the corresponding changes in the compression curves during the test were analyzed, termination conditions of the testing process for fiber axial compressing performance testing was discussed, the characterization of performance for the fiber sample after bending deformation and its plasticity were explored, and the methods to determine fiber prickle properties applying fiber axial compressing performance were elaborated according to the prickle mechanism and its feeling attributes.The results showed that the contact condition of fiber sample and the test-head might change from “point contact” to “line contact” along with the bending deformation of the fiber sample during the axial compression test, and the axial compressing performance test should be to end along with the end of the "point contact"stage; when the prickle properties of fibers are judged according to their axial compressing performances, the contact condition between fiber-end and skin should be “point contact”, and the fiber-end should have a length of more than 0.2mm, and can withstand axial load not less than 0.75mN.

      Preparation and characterizations of PtNPs/(PVA/PEI) hybrids
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  18-22. 
      Abstract ( 777 )   PDF (1396KB) ( 448 )   Save
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      PVA/PEI nanofibers were obtained by employing the mixture of polyvinylalcohol (PVA) and polyetherimide (PEI) as precursor as well as adopting the electrospinning technique. After that, the PVA/PEI nanofibers were crosslinked with glutaraldehyde (GA) and then functionalized with (Triethoxysilyl)propylmethacrylate (MPTES), followed by immobilizing platinum nanoparticles (PtNPs) on them. Field emission scanning electron microscopy (FE-SEM), transmission electron microscopy (TEM), X-ray diffractometer (XRD) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) were utilized to characterize the morphology, structures of the PtNPs/(PVA/PEI) hybrids. The results indicate that the hybrids with well-dispersed PtNPs on the nanofibers were successfully synthesized and hybrids exhibit excellent photocatalytic activity toward Rhodamine B.

      Bayesian statistical inference method for inverse problems of textile material design
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  23-29. 
      Abstract ( 582 )   PDF (1368KB) ( 462 )   Save
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         Aiming at the ill-posed of the inverse problem of textile material design(IPTMD), a new approach based on Bayesian Markov Chain Monte Carlo(Bayesian-MCMC) method was proposed for solving the problem of single and multiple parameter determination. Since the heat and moisture transfer model is non-linear and the IPTMD is ill-posed, it proves an effective method to derive posterior distribution for the model parameters such as the heat conductivity, thickness and porosity of the material. This method describes prior information of parameters as prior probability density, constructing numerical algorithms of the IPTMD. The numerical results show that Bayesian inference method which agrees with Markov chain Monte Carlo sampling algorithm can be applied to solve the IPTMD.

      Properties of yarn made by ring swirl nozzle spinning method and fabric style
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  30-34. 
      Abstract ( 325 )   PDF (1276KB) ( 321 )   Save
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      In order to clarify the effect of swirl nozzle on style and performance of fabric,conventional ring spinning and swirl nozzle ringspinning were used to spin yarns, respectively. Then the yarn were woven into fabric. The compression performance, shear properties, tensile and flexural properties of fabric were measured by KES and evaluated. The results showed that: the hairiness index, breaking strength and unevenness of swirl nozzle spun yarn are improved. In comparison with conventional woven fabric, the swirl nozzle woven fabric is more plumpish,thick, and stiff. When subjected to external force, the swirl nozzle woven fabric is more susceptible to deformation and elastic recovery is better.

      Application of deterministic L-systems in knitting pattern design
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  35-38. 
      Abstract ( 520 )   PDF (1025KB) ( 288 )   Save
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      To expand the application of fractal art in knitted product design, the method of generating fractal graphics based on deterministic L-systems was preliminarily researched. By programing with Visual Basic, single-formula algorithm and multi-formula algorithm of deterministic L-systems were studied. And a rich variety of graphics were generated by changing the parameters of the algorithm. Then some graphics were applied in pattern design based on their own characteristics, and the effects of knitted fabrics were simulated with M1 pattern design system of STOLL computerized flat knitting machine. The results indicated that these fractal graphics of deterministic L-systems are feasible to be the knitting patterns. At the same time, the two sides pattern could be created by broadening the definitions of the characters in multi-formula L-system. It will be conducive to broaden the creative pattern source of the knitting product design.

      Production process of polyester filament warp knitted sportswear fabric with high simulated cotton appearance
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  39-42. 
      Abstract ( 485 )   PDF (970KB) ( 376 )   Save
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      Fabrics made by polyester filament with the simulated cotton appearance have large dimensional changes, which increase difficulties of setting processing parameter during fabric production. To control the fabric dimension and find the most optimized process, three kinds of fabric structure, four kinds of on-loom density and two kinds of finishing process were selected and studied. The effect of three factors on the density of fabric was also analyzed. Based on above analysis, it can be concluded that shrinkage of fabrics in weft direction is greater than that in warp direction. The proper structure was the reverse locknit stitch, the on-loom density was 20 row/cm, the final process includes warping → knitting → washing → pre-sizing → dying → sizing → finished product. The mass oj the fabric was 184.3 g/㎡. The shrinkage on weft direction and shrinkage on warp direction was 24 % and 38.9 %, respectively. The fabric width was 160 cm.

      Design method and manufacturing technique of weft knitting jacquard mattress fabric
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  43-49. 
      Abstract ( 304 )   PDF (2012KB) ( 367 )   Save
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      Subject to the limitation of the manufacturing technique, the design method of weft knitting jacquard mattress fabric is different from ordinary fabric. It could be a guideline about production process for the development of new products and promotion future after summarized the rule during design process. Refer to the mature design and pattern design theory, it is possible to summarize the weft mattress fabric design content, characteristics and manufacturing technique. It is beneficial for arranging patterns reasonably to use the method of continuous arrangement, proportion arrangement, sectional type arrangement and integral arrangement. It is necessary to complete the process of pattern design quickly according with manufacturing technique. It is contribute to the development and production due to sum up the double stereoscopic pattern design concept of weft knitting jacquard mattress fabric.

      Thermal-electrical properties of knitted heating fabrics
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  50-54. 
      Abstract ( 296 )   PDF (1231KB) ( 340 )   Save
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      To investigate the feasibility of coated silver polymeric filament (CSPFs) used in active warming clothing. Some experiments were performed for testing the thermal-electrical stability of CSPFs, and three kinds of knitted heating fabrics (KHFs) were designed and fabricated by using CSPFs and polyester yarns to study their heating effects. Experimental results showed resistances of CSPFs increased with ageing time and ageing temperature. By taking and analyzing infrared temperature images of KHFs and CSPFs, surface maximum equilibrium temperature of KHFs and CSPFs is strongly linear correlative with power consumption density. Furthermore, power consumption density of KHFs is also strongly linear positive correlative with inner equilibrium temperature of mimetic clothing.

      Stitch structure design of flat knitting shaped shoe-upper
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  55-59. 
      Abstract ( 326 )   PDF (1651KB) ( 442 )   Save
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      In order to develop the flat knitting fabric which suitable for the upper material, based on the study of upper’s performance, the current stitch for upper was analyzed and was divided into decorative and functional two categories, for the different requirements of the various parts of the upper, transforming different stitch in the knitting process in order to achieve high strength, breathable, tighten, decoration and so on. Using jacquard technology to make brand logo was innovation, contrast it with the appearance of printing and then confirm its feasibility. Combined with computerize knitting machine technology, some of typical stitch were designed and practiced, the knitting process was tested and optimized. As a whole, at the same time giving full play to the advantages of flat knitting forming technology, the flat knitting uppers had the advantage of lightweight, high strength, beautiful, comfort, etc., achieved the unity of functional and decorative. This paper has the guiding significance for the development and promotion of the product.

      Comparison of test methods for fabric wrinkle recovery angle
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  60-63. 
      Abstract ( 307 )   PDF (1095KB) ( 352 )   Save
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      Several drawbacks exist in the state-of-art measurements for fabric wrinkle recovery,such as low degree of automation and inaccurate measurement results.In this paper, YG541E automatic laser fabric wrinkle recovery tester,SDL-M003A wrinkle recovery angles tester and JN-1 fabric wrinkle recovery dynamic tester based video sequences for the test equipments,the wrinkle recovery angle CVvalue as the evaluation index.Experimental results show that the type of JN-1 fabric wrinkle recovery dynamic tester based video sequences is the most accuracy and stability and has a high degree of automation.It provides a reliable and effective technical hands for the test study of fabric wrinkle recovery performance.

      Structure change of self-crimping bi-compinent filament after dyeing and finishing process and its elasticity
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  64-71. 
      Abstract ( 295 )   PDF (2364KB) ( 256 )   Save
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      The purpose of this study was to investigate the apparent performance of different self-crimping bi-component filament fabrics during finishing and the elasticity of their end-products. Therefore, three kinds of PTT/PET self-crimping bi-component filaments made in different factories were woven, dyed and finished under same process conditions and then compared with polyurethane fiber fabric. The weight reduction rate, weft shrinkage, elastic elongation and elastic recovery percentage of the above four kinds of fabrics were obtained.The results indicated that with the increase of DPF, the weight reduction rate decreases but the weft shrinkage increases. The weight reduction rate decreases as the fabric count increases. The elastic recovery decreases as the elastic elongation increases.Optical microscopy, scanning electron microscopy and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) examinations showed that due to the finer DPF and larger specific surface area, one kind of PTT/PET filament exhibited separation of the two components resulting from caustic corrosion during the process of dyeing and finishing and hence the high elasticity inherent in bi-component filaments was lost.

      Simulation of coating deposition process on fabric surface
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  72-76. 
      Abstract ( 280 )   PDF (1323KB) ( 339 )   Save
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      Through the research of action mechanism of atmospheric pressure plasma liquid deposition process, centering around how to improve the deposition efficiency, a micro-film deposition kinetics model on fabric surface was constructed. Exploring the discharge power, frequency, treatment time, monomer flow rate, He flow rate on the deposition rate and film properties, numerically simulating changes in coating surface morphology, obtaining the deposition rate variation under different process parameters, disclosing the generation law of polymeric particles growth, coating density and mass in film deposition process. These results have directive significance for predicting film structure and optimizing specific plasma liquid deposition process parameters to improve deposition rate and the deposited film uniformity and how to improve material utilization and save cost in the actual production.

      Comparative analysis on lighting efficiency of luminous fibers for embroidery trademark
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  77-81. 
      Abstract ( 205 )   PDF (1527KB) ( 359 )   Save
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      The embroidered trademark made by luminous fiber has the characteristics of emitting light in the absence of light, which increases the identification capability of the trademark on the night. Four different types of luminous trademarks were designed using the Wilcom plate software and Fuyi computer-aided embroidery machine. The afterglow brightness and light color of these trademarks were compared. This research showed that the color of the fiber has a direct effect on the light brightness of luminous fiber on the night. Without the light, each light color of colored luminous fibers is similar, and the luminous fiber emits the yellow-green light. In comparison with traditional embroidery,the trademark made by the overplated skill bas stronger afterglow brighness and radiance and little light color changed, but the color purity declined. Thus, the trademark made by white color fiber has maximum brightness, and the best color performance. Therefore, it is optimum to choose white luminous fibers for embroidering trademark.

      Mechanics modeling and performance calculation of aramid/polytetrafluoroethene fabric liner
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  82-87. 
      Abstract ( 231 )   PDF (1301KB) ( 566 )   Save
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      Aramid/polytetrafluoroethene fabric self-lubricating liner is one of function parts of self-lubricating spherical plain bearing, and its macroscopic mechanical properties parameters should be set up accurately in the calculation of relevant research and analysis. The research purposes is to acquire macro mechanics performance parameters of the aramid/polytetrafluoroethene fabric by the calculation of mesoscopic configuration. Based on the twill structure, the fixed RVE mesoscopic model and elastic performance analysis model had been built. The mechanics properties parameters had been calculated by numerical simulation method and analytic method. And then, comparing with experimental data, the effectiveness of the given model and the mechanics performance parameters had been verified. The study shows that the given parameterized mesoscopic structure model can be used to calculate the macro mechanical performances. Thus, the fabric liner mechanics performance can be achieved accurately.

      Finite element calculation for The comparison of compression resistance of different core reinforced materials
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  88-92. 
      Abstract ( 248 )   PDF (1314KB) ( 325 )   Save
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      In order to analyze the effects of different core materials on the compression resistance of the O-shaped core reinforced composites, the mechanical responses of three dinds of corematerials of resin core and glass-fiber core as well as metal core reinforced composites under the same compression action were compared by the calculation using finite element analysis (FEA). By comparatively and analyzing indexes of deflection-time curves, weight, stress distribution, and equilibrium degree of stress, it was found that both of the stress distribution symmetry and loading equilibrium were beneficial to the loading-bearing performance of the materials, even which can absorb more energy and generates relatively-smslldeformation. Furthermore, taking the requirements of compression resistance, loading equilibrium and light-weight into consideration, the glass-fiber core reinforced composite should be selected instead of resin or metal core reinforced composites.

      Synthesis and adhesion-to-wool of sulfosuccinylated starch
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  93-97. 
      Abstract ( 377 )   PDF (1152KB) ( 353 )   Save
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      In order to improve the usability of starch, a series of sulfosuccinylated starch (SSS) with different levels of degree of substitution (DS) was prepared for surveying the effects of starch sulfosuccination and paste temperature on the adhesion to wool fibers in term of adhesion-to-fibers. The results show that starch sulfosuccination can obviously improve the adhesion to wool fibers. The influences of starch sulfosuccination level and paste temperature show significant inlfuence on the adhesion. Under the same temperature, the adhesion increases gradually with the increase in DS. And under the same DS value, the adhesion decreases as the paste temperature reduces, but the reduced trend of adhesion significantly decreases compared with acid-thinned starch. The adhesion of starch to wool fibers can be significantly improved by using the SSS with a DS of 0.036 under the temperature range of 50 ~ 65 ℃.

      Dyeing of Scutellaria Baicalensis Georgi on polyester fabric
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  98-102. 
      Abstract ( 768 )   PDF (1158KB) ( 295 )   Save
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       In order to develop new natural dyes with health care function, Scutellaria Baicalensis Georgi extract pigment was selected for high temperature and high pressure dyeing on polyester fabric to study the application and functional embodiment of Scutellaria Baicalensis Georgi on polyester fabric. And influences of dyeing properties on polyester fabric were discussed via single factor test and orthogonal experiment, including extraction liquid dosage, pH value, dyeing temperature and holding time. The results indicated that brown color could be obtained by high temperature and high pressure dyeing of polyester fiber with Scutellaria Baicalensis Georgi dye, and the optimum dyeing process was as follows: dyeing at 130 ℃ for 60 min at pH = 5 with the dosage of 50% extraction liquid. The washing fastness and rubbing fastness of dyed polyester can be grade 4-5, but the light fastness is poor, only grade 1~2. Moreover, strong UV resistance and a certain antibacterial properties are provided on the Scutellaria dyed polyester.

      Study on feasibility of soaping for reactive dyeing using low-water medium 
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  103-109. 
      Abstract ( 269 )   PDF (1689KB) ( 350 )   Save
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      Using decamethyl cyclopentasilaxane (D5)  as soaping medium for reactive dyeing can significantly reduce water consumption and wastewater discharge in soaping process and be a matching process for the novel reactive dyeing technology in dye/D5 suspension system. Taking the dye concentration of water extraction liquid of the soaped as the evaluating index,the conditions such as the type and amount of soaping agent, the amount of water, temperature and time were optimized by single factor.The results showed that the optimal D5 soaping process of cotton fabric dyed in Reactive Dye/D5 system was: N-Polyoxyethylated-N-octadecylamine 1.5g/L,D5 bath ratio 1:50,water amount of three times of fabric weight, time 10 min, and temperature 95℃. Compared the soaping efficiency of water dyed and water soaped samples and D5 dyed and D5 soaped samples with the similar color depth (K/S value), both reached the similar levels, and the color fastness can meet the general requirement.

      Evaluation of washing fastness and skin irritation of nano silver finished silk fabrics
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  110-113. 
      Abstract ( 212 )   PDF (1075KB) ( 338 )   Save
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      To inspect the washing fastness and skin irritation of antimicrobial fabrics, the nano silver finished silk fabrics were prepared as the test samples. The antibacterial efficiency were determined by agar plate diffusion method and absorption method. The release of the metal from the samples was determined using inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry(ICP-MS). The skin irritation of the silk fabrics water extracts was studied by three-dimensional cultured human epidermis model(EPI-MODEL). The results showed the bacterial inhibition ratio against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC6538 and Escherichia coli 8099 of the treated fabrics exceeded 99% after 50 washing cycles. The washing durability of the treated fabrics was good. The water extracts of silk fabrics had no skin irritation, which meant the treated fabrics were safety.

      Measurement of saltness of reactive dyed wastewater using light refractive index method
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  114-118. 
      Abstract ( 464 )   PDF (1002KB) ( 369 )   Save
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      In order to efficiently reuse reactive dyed wastewater, the salt concentration of wastewater was measured by light refractive index method. The relationship between salinity and salt concentration of single salt and mixed salt solution and the influence of dye concentration were studied. There is a good linear relation between the concentration of sodium chloride, sodium sulfate, sodium carbonate and salinity, and R2>0.99. the salinity exhibited good additivity in the solution of mixed salt with the error of less than 5%.Dye concentration had little effect on the salinity of single salt and mixed salt and the error is below 4%.

      Study on ink-jet printing process of micropolyester fabric
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  119-122. 
      Abstract ( 440 )   PDF (864KB) ( 437 )   Save
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      The factors influencing the final colour yield and fastness of an ink-jet printed microfiber fabric were investigated. In order to improve the colour yield and processing fabric, the factors included the content of the pretreatment paste (the amounts of guar gum, sodium dihydrogen phosphate,penetrating agent and urea) and the steaming time. Four different inks – cyan, magenta, yellow and black – were used in this study .The results showed that apart from the influence of individual factors, the final colour yield also depended on the interaction effect of the factors. The optimized content of pretreatment were as follows: the amounts of guar 3%, urea 8 %,sodium dihydrogen phosphate 2 % and penetrating agent 1%;and the summational k/s value of four color achieved 49.2, nearly equal to transfer printed microfiber fabric.The level of all fastness is all above four.

      Synthesis of fluoro-acrylate emulsion with core-shell structure and its application on cotton fabric finishing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  123-128. 
      Abstract ( 303 )   PDF (1544KB) ( 403 )   Save
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      A poly-fluoro-acrylate emulsion with core-shell structure was synthesized with poly (butyl acrylate-co-methyl methacrylate as the core, and poly (butyl acrylate-co-methylmethacrylate-co-bis(acryloxypropyl)tetramethyldisiloxane-co-tridecylfluooctylacrylate as the shell, via starved-semicontinuous seed emulsion polymerization. The morphology and thermostability of the core-shell latex particles and the influences of fluorine content and the amount of cross-linked agent on water-repellency, oil-repellency and surface characteristics of finished textile were investigated by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FT-IR), X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy(XPS), transmission electron microscope(TEM), thermogravimetry(TG) and contact angle(CA) analysis. The results showed that fluorine monomer and cross-linked agent were involved in co-polymerization with acrylic monomers, and the particle size of emulsion with obviously core-shell structure was about 76 nm, Moreover,when the fluorine content and the amount of cross-linked agent in core-shell copolymer latexes were 6.7% and 3%, respectively, the water- and oil-repellency of cotton fabric treated with fluorinated latex reached 80 points and level 5, respectively, and contact angle was up to 138.2°. Water- and oil- repellency and thermal stability of the finished textile have been improved with the introduction of siloxane cross-linking agent.

      Establishment of female attractiveness rating predicted model based on clothing customization
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  129-133. 
      Abstract ( 302 )   PDF (1098KB) ( 275 )   Save
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      Clothing customization is a new trend of clothing industry, and beauty body is one of the basic function of custom-made clothes. Using regression analysis of body measurements by 3-D body scanner, eleven body measurements were determinde as the most important cues for body physical attractiveness. On the basis of these eleven body measurmetns, fifteen body proportions express female body shape character istics better were selected. A new prediction model for female attractiveness was established by analyzing these 15 body proportions with principle component analysis, canonical analysis and regression analysis. Based on the prediction model, imperfact body segments were pointed which can be concealed when designing custom clothes. The predict model can provide a rationale for individualilzed design.

      Application of golden ratio in men's suits
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  134-140. 
      Abstract ( 217 )   PDF (1262KB) ( 320 )   Save
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      This paper attempts to analyze the constitute and relationship of golden ratio, square root rectangle, golden rectangle from the geometrical vision principle, expounds the aesthetic principle of golden ratio more deeply, and discuss the inner relationship between the gold ratio and men’s suits design and cutting. And through the specific calculation and reasoning, many application were made in the style and structure drawing of the men’s suits. The aesthetic attributes of how to effectively use the golden ratio in men's suits design were explored.

      Study on structure of fitted clothes of upper apparel with different thickness of body
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  141-146. 
      Abstract ( 536 )   PDF (1583KB) ( 402 )   Save
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      Body thickness refers to thickness dimension along with human body depth, and it is a reference size for analyzing side appearance of women apparel. The structure processing technology influences the coincidence of garment and body figure. With the hilp of three-dimensional CAD software technology of the United States OptiTex, the side of the wirtual model is made taking 165/84A figure model as research object, and the thickness tolerances increase by 0.56 cm, a total increase of 10 times. To obtain the pattern of the structure in the way of the digital draping, the variation of displacement of different process points of the fitted pattern in different thickness of body is observed and the change rule of body planar structure variation and apparel fitted prototype optimization methods is summarized by the analysis method of plane pictures stacking. The result shows that with the thickness of body increases by 0.56 cm, the bust, waist, and chest are in arithmetic increase.The variation of fitted pattern in lateral dimension is larger than the vertical size. The front and rear waist darts, shoulder dart, etc. will all increase accordingly.

      Design of distributed control system of circular kniting machine based on STM32 and FPGA
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  147-151. 
      Abstract ( 446 )   PDF (1281KB) ( 324 )   Save
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      To improve the control technique of the domestic high-grade circular knitting machine, and to solve the problems of low scalability, poor stability and complex and diverse control objects due to employing centralized control manner of the existing circular machine control systems, a new type of circular knitting machine control system using distributed control technipue is designed in this paper. A layered distributed architecture with centralized management and distributed control is adopted, and the embedded control technology accompany with the modular circuit design method is used based on the ARM processor STM32 and the field programmable gate array (FPGA). From the practical application, it is shown that this type of control system not only realized all the functions of the circular kniting machine control system, but also has the features of higher running stability and reliability and much better flexibility and is easier to control, thus greatly improved the real-time characteristic of the control system.

      Numerical simulation of coupling of fiber and air flow
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  152-157. 
      Abstract ( 405 )   PDF (1264KB) ( 361 )   Save
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      A two-dimensional model of fluid-structure coupling was set up based on the equation of the fiber and the fluid  control. The consistent time integration and iterative coupling algorithm were used to solve the equation. The interaction of the fiber and the airflow in the main nozzle, such as the fiber motional, deformational characteristics and the force of the fiber, was analyzed. The results show that the fiber under airflow will come into stretching and bending deformation and present in the form of sine or cosine. The deformation effect of the free end of the fiber is more obvious than that of the restrained end. The maximum stress often occurred in the bending position as well as the part where the fiber contacted with the wall.

      Application of numerical simulation on performance evaluation of thermal protective clothing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2015, 36(01):  158-164. 
      Abstract ( 284 )   PDF (1822KB) ( 823 )   Save
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      Evaluating the performance of thermal protective clothing properly is significant for public safety.Following experiment research, numerical simulation has become an important means in related fields. From the aspects of development and validation of models, this paper reviews the current research status, such as heat transfer models, skin burn predictive models and fire simulation. The development process, characteristic and insufficient points of representative models are concluded. According to the development of related technologies, trends on numerical simulation on performance evaluation of thermal protective clothing are predicted. Full-scale simulation will be carried out based on the improvement of heat and moisture model. All-round evaluation of protective clothing will be realized combined with human thermal regulation model. Through the application on the optimization of thermal protective clothing, the practical value of numerical simulation can be expressed adequately.