户外仿生结构功能面料的开发及其性能

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250103801

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为改善户外功能衣在人体运动后因细菌滋生和汗液挥发产生的异味,以及提升其热湿舒适性,以王莲叶脉的结构为仿生原理,采用消臭氨纶/丙纶包覆纱作为地纱,羊毛作为添纱设计并开发了8款仿生结构面料。对8款面料的消臭、热湿舒适性及服用性能进行测试。结果表明: 叶片泡状结构面料消臭性能高达99.50%,适用于腋下、前胸等易产生异味的部位;次叶脉结构面料克罗值达0.723 7 clo,适用于腹部及膝关节等需重点保暖部位;主叶脉结构面料透气率为390.78 mm/s、透湿率为454.77 g/(m²·h),主次叶脉小方格面料单向传递指数为409.610,适用于胸背部等出汗量大的部位;以上仿生结构面料经7 000次摩擦后起毛起球等级仍达5级,适用于羊毛户外功能衣面料。

关键词: 仿生结构, 羊毛, 户外功能衣, 功能面料, 仿生针织面料, 消臭氨纶, 消臭性能, 热湿舒适性

Abstract:

Objective With the booming development of outdoor sports, people's demand for functional sportswear continued to grow. Heavy clothing led to poor perspiration, seriously affecting comfort with risk of hypothermia, and was easy to gather odor causing embarrassment and discomfort in a complex autumn and winter outdoor environment. Current research on the base layer of outdoor functional fabrics is primarily focused on single-function characteristics, neglecting consumers' demand for multifunctional properties combining odor elimination and thermal-moisture comfort. Therefore, it is urgent to develop outdoor functional fabrics with deodorizing performance and thermal-moisture comfort.
Method In order to develop outdoor functional fabrics that concurrently exhibit deodorizing and thermal-moisture comfort properties, eight fabric types were developed based on the biomimetic principle of Victoria amazonica leaf venation structure with the use of wool as plating yarn and odor-eliminating polyurethane/polypropylene covered yarn as the ground yarn. A deodorizing performance testing device was established to evaluate the deodorizing capabilities of these outdoor functional fabrics. The deodorizing performance and thermal-moisture comfort were assessed by testing the air permeability, moisture permeability, and moisture management properties. Additionally, the service performance of the outdoor functional fabrics was scrutinized.
Results The results of the deodorizing performance test indicated that among the 9 fabric samples, the maximum ammonia elimination rate was 99.50%, and the minimum was 85.11%. The maximum acetic acid elimination rate was 94.55%, and the minimum was 80.36%. All fabric samples exhibited excellent deodorizing efficacy, with both ammonia and acetic acid elimination rates exceeded 80%. Notably, bubble structured fabric demonstrated significantly superior deodorizing performance compared to the plain knit fabric. In terms of thermal insulation, with the exception of the leaf small pore fabric, all other fabric samples outperformed the plain knit fabric, with the secondary vein fabric achieved the best thermal insulation performance. The cardinal vein fabric exhibited the highest air permeability, while the branching structureⅡfabric demonstrated the lowest. For water vapor permeability, with the exception of the leaf small pore, branching structure I and the bubble structure fabrics, all other fabric samples outperformed the plain knit fabric. All 8 biomimetic fabric samples had a unidirectional transport index greater than 300, indicating excellent moisture absorption and wicking properties. Specifically, vein small grid and bubble structure fabrics showed markedly superior moisture management performance compared to the plain knit fabric. The serviceability assessment suggested that it was evident that all eight biomimetic fabric samples met the service performance requirements for outdoor functional apparel. In terms of pilling resistance, the cardinal vein, secondary vein, vein small grid, bubble structure, and the branching structureⅡfabrics performed the best, with the fabric surface remaining clear and intact after 7 000 cycles of abrasion. The branching structureⅠfabric showed the best bursting strength and bursting height, demonstrating exceptional bursting performance. With respect to the tensile properties, the weft-breaking strength and breaking elongation of all 8 biomimetic fabric samples were greater than those in the warp direction. In the weft direction, the secondary vein fabric had the highest breaking strength, and the branching structureⅡfabric had the highest breaking elongation.
Conclusion The comparative analysis of eight fabric samples and plain-knit fabrics demonstrated that incorporating wool and deodorizing polyurethane fibers significantly improved the fabrics' deodorizing performance. The bioinspired structural design was also found to substantially enhance thermal-moisture comfort, offering valuable guidance for developing outdoor functional apparel that combines both deodorizing performance and comfort. However, challenges remained regarding how to effectively implement zonal designs using these bioinspired structures in outdoor garments, as well as how to establish appropriate evaluation methods for assessing the performance of such functional clothing, indicating important directions for future research.

Key words: bionic structure, wool, outdoor functional garment, functional fabric, bionic knitting fabric, deodorizing polyurethane fiber, deodorizing performance, thermal-moisture comfort

中图分类号:

TS186.3

徐丽丽, 腾燕飞, 马丕波, 万爱兰. 户外仿生结构功能面料的开发及其性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2025, 46(11): 94-101.

XU Lili, TENG Yanfei, MA Pibo, WAN Ailan. Development and performance of outdoor functional fabrics with bionic structures[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2025, 46(11): 94-101.

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链接本文: http://www.fzxb.org.cn/CN/10.13475/j.fzxb.20250103801

http://www.fzxb.org.cn/CN/Y2025/V46/I11/94

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参考文献 17

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结构名称	面料编号	面密度/ (g·m^-2)	厚度/ mm	密度/(线圈数·(5 cm)^-1)		消臭氨纶含量/%	羊毛含量/%
结构名称	面料编号	面密度/ (g·m^-2)	厚度/ mm	横密	纵密	消臭氨纶含量/%	羊毛含量/%
主叶脉	1#	339	2.28	95	165	12.93	60.64
次叶脉	2#	326	1.44	100	245	12.81	60.54
主次叶脉小方格	3#	340	2.23	75	185	11.65	64.50
叶片小孔纹路	4#	218	0.83	80	145	13.59	58.39
叶脉分支结构Ⅰ类	5#	252	1.50	70	165	12.97	60.29
叶片大孔纹路	6#	199	0.96	80	145	14.85	54.60
叶片泡状结构	7#	442	2.17	90	220	12.70	61.19
叶脉分支结构Ⅱ类	8#	331	1.89	85	195	12.78	60.85
纬平针	0#	310	1.06	95	155	12.37	62.14

面料编号	氨气				醋酸
	初始浓度/ (μL·L^-1)	2 h后浓度/(μL·L^-1)		消除率/ %	初始浓度/ (μL·L^-1)	2 h后浓度/(μL·L^-1)		消除率/%
	初始浓度/ (μL·L^-1)	样品A	空白B	消除率/ %	初始浓度/ (μL·L^-1)	样品A	空白B	消除率/%
1#	100.00	5.50	98.00	94.39	30.00	3.00	28.50	89.47
2#	100.00	7.50	98.00	92.35	30.00	4.00	29.00	86.21
3#	100.00	5.00	94.00	94.68	30.00	2.50	28.50	91.23
4#	100.00	13.50	96.00	85.94	30.00	5.00	27.00	81.48
5#	100.00	11.00	94.00	88.30	30.00	4.50	27.50	83.64
6#	100.00	14.00	94.00	85.11	30.00	5.50	28.00	80.36
7#	100.00	0.50	92.00	99.50	30.00	1.50	27.50	94.55
8#	100.00	6.50	95.00	93.16	30.00	3.50	28.50	87.72
0#	100.00	4.50	72.00	93.75	30.00	2.00	28.00	92.86

面料编号	热阻/ (10^-3m²·K·W^-1)	传热系数/ (W·(m²·℃)^-1)	克罗值/ clo
1#	74.100	13.550	0.478 0
2#	112.233	9.073	0.723 7
3#	71.675	13.995	0.462 3
4#	42.633	24.290	0.275 0
5#	51.733	19.407	0.333 7
6#	44.950	22.338	0.289 6
7#	95.967	10.670	0.618 7
8#	53.475	18.678	0.344 8
0#	43.200	23.273	0.263 0

面料编号	单向传递指数	等级
1#	324.210	5
2#	369.700	5
3#	409.610	5
4#	381.250	5
5#	377.620	5
6#	385.240	5
7#	405.930	5
8#	365.710	5
0#	402.550	5

面料编号	不同摩擦次数下的起毛起球等级
面料编号	125次	500次	1 000次	2 000次	5 000次	7 000次
1#	5	5	5	5	5	5
2#	5	5	5	5	5	5
3#	5	5	5	5	5	5
4#	5	5	5	5	4.5	4
5#	5	5	5	5	5	4.5
6#	5	5	5	5	4.5	4
7#	5	5	5	5	5	5
8#	5	5	5	5	5	5