关键词: 经编全成形, 运动装, 骑行服, 结构设计, 拉伸弹性, 舒适压力, 上机工艺

Abstract:

Objective In view of the current problems such as relatively simple styles and structures of one-piece cycling suits, few changes in material structure, and insufficient research on tensile elasticity and pressure comfort, the structure design and development of the fully formed hooded one-piece cycling suit are carried out in combination with warp knitting full forming technology based on the analysis of dynamic skin tensile change data and pressure distribution theory of the human body.
Method The stretching changes of the cycling skin and the static pressure distribution of the human body were analyzed. Based on this, the style design of the hooded one-piece cycling suit was carried out, and the functional zoning of the hooded one-piece cycling suit was worked on. The cycling suit was divided into five main design regions, and the corresponding jacquard tissues were filled in the corresponding regions. Finally, the jacquard pattern was warp knitted on the machine. Tensile elasticity and comfort pressure tests were conducted on the jacquard tissue pattern, and the corresponding test results were analyzed.
Results Through the analysis of the tensile elasticity test, it was found that the tensile force value of the thick tissue pattern was the largest among the jacquard structure patterns, followed by that of the thick and thin combined tissue pattern, while the tensile force value of the mesh structure pattern was the smallest. Moreover, the tensile force value of the diamond-arranged mesh was better than that of the transversely arranged mesh and this is because the mesh structure can disperse the force. Therefore, adding perforated mesh holes to the force-bearing parts of the clothing helps disperse the pressure exerted by the clothing on these parts, thereby improving the pressure comfort of the clothing. By analyzing the elastic recovery rate and elastic elongation rate of various styles, it was found that the the thick tissue has the highest elastic recovery rate and elastic elongation rate. Its tensile recovery performance is the best among all samples because its structure is the most compact and tight, and it is able to quickly resilient after stretching. Therefore, it is suitable for use as the main fabric of cycling suit, which can closely adhere to the body and improve exercise efficiency. By analyzing the test results of the comfortable pressure of the styles, it was found that the comfortable pressure values of each sample are relatively small, and this is because the tensile and resilience properties of the fully formed warp knitted suit are relatively excellent. The pressure exerted by the clothing fabric on the human body surface is not the pressure of the clothing but the comfortable pressure of the clothing, which is conducive to the exertion of sports performance. Therefore, in the selection of jacquard tissue for the one-piece cycling suit, the thick tissue fabric is more suitable to be used as the main fabric to cover the entire body, while the mesh fabric can be applied to regions with high requirements for moisture absorption and air permeability, thereby improving the thermal and moisture comfort performance of the clothing.
Conclusion Based on the skin stretching changes during cycling and the distribution of the main hot and humid areas of the human trunk, the design areas of the hooded one-piece cycling suit were divided, and the corresponding jacquard tissue were designed according to the functional characteristics of the areas, and the process model was established. By conducting tensile elasticity and comfort pressure tests on jacquard tissue samples, the appropriate fabric was selected and applied to the partitioned areas. Combining the 3D simulation of suit to preview the wearing effect of the finished product, the development process is shortened, thereby providing a reference for the development of related cycling suit products.

Key words: warp-knitted fully formed, sportswear, cycling suit, structural design, stretch elasticity, comfortable pressure, machine processing