关键词: 提花织物, 三纬组合结构, 全显色效果, 空间并置混色, 显色纬比例

Abstract:

Objective In order to reveal the characteristics of color mixing and the relationship between the structure and the juxtaposed color characteristics of compound full-color structure with triple-weft, a color card was constructed and woven to systematically compare and analyze the fabric effects of different color ratio combinations. The relationship between color characteristics of the triple-weft juxtaposed color mixing and ratio of chromatic weft was clarified, and a predictive method model was provided, as an effort to provide a theoretical basis for the structural design and accurate color rendering of compound full-color structure with triple-weft.

Method In this research, 16-end 3-step number sateen weave with the starting point of 1/8/14 were used as the basic organization to construct combination of three basic weaves with full-color weaves. The proportion of three groups of color developing weftwas controlled, reasonably design and weave the experimental weaving color card of red, yellow and blue color developing weft proportion combination, and explore the internal relationship between color developing weft proportion and color mixing characteristics. In addition, a fabric color mixing model was formed based on the rules, and the prediction method of fabric color mixing of compound full-color structure with triple-weft was defined, which was further verified by simulation.

Results According to the scanning diagram of the gradient color card and the color phase ring, it was clear that seven main colors in the color gamut of three weft juxtaposed mixed colors, which were the three groups of weft primary colors, intermediate colors mixed with primary colors in pairs, and compound colors mixed with three groups of weft, formed a color phase closed loop. When there was a large difference in the weft float length of the three weft colors the main color was determined by the longest weft float length; whereas when the weft float lengths of three weft colors were similar, three-weft mixed color was not black in theory, but a brown. Through simulation and prediction, it was verified that in compound full-color structure with triple-weft, the complex color of warp and three-color weft was not able to display saturated black and white at the same time, in which case a group of black(white) warp or weft had to be added. With help of simulation, the hue ring model was constructed by using color gamut and color development theory of the color mixing characteristics of three latitude parallel display structure under compound full-color structure with triple-weft, providing the color configuration basis for pattern design of compound full-color structure with triple-weft fabric.

Conclusion The results reveal that change of ratio of chromatic weft in any of the three groups of color developing weft will affect the color expression of juxtaposed color blending in compound full-color structure with triple-weft space and has the unique regularity of color blending in warp and weft interweaving structure. The results of this study provide further understanding of the color mixing model of compound full-color structure with triple-weft jacquard fabrics.

Key words: jacquard fabric, compound structure with triple-weft, all coloring effect, color mixing of space juxtaposition, colored-weft proportion